Please remind me...[Electro 35, POD, bulb-like]

[btgc]

Long story short, today discovered that original Electro 35 has problem - keeps shutter opened for proper time only if shutter release is kept depressed. This is easily noticeable with slow speeds. Action like on younger Electro 35 MC.
UPD: just discovered that on f16 it sometimes stays opened even if bright light shines on CdS cell. Not so on other apertures.

Checked my beater GSN and it works OK - even if release button is clicked and freed, shutter stays opened longer time (remember, I'm talking about dim light).

I haven't used original 35 for some time so I don't remember exactly how it behaved before - and last roll were all at daylight. I'm wondering because I did PODs same way (mkey, I think it were same...similar is better word) on both cameras.

So as far as I remember, this means changing POD another time? There are many posts on Net "shutter behaves like in bulb mode" - I'm not sure is it's exactly same case - if they have shutter opened while release is kept depressed (exact BULB) or shutter stays opened for proper time if release is kept depressed.

Thank you in advance...this is downside of having too much cameras...wait, on other hand I can compare them to trace down problem 😉

 

[caperunner]

Quick test for POD (you may know this already.) Advance film lever and you can hear a clunk sound as you just move the film advance lever . = POD o.k. No clunk = renew POD. Sometimes just working the shutter several times with a battery in the camera will clear any high resistance switch contact. May be able to hear the arcing of the contacts while doing so if the contacts are dirty. . Perhaps too the front ring on the lens needs to be moved/exercised a few times i.e. from 'B' to 'AUTO' to 'flash symbol' to clear those contacts too which are in the lens assembly.
A couple of suggestions..

 

[btgc]

Thanks caperunner. Clunk is still there, from same moment I replaced POD.

Suddenly I'm remembering write-up on Electro somewhere on Net, how it works. Seems that pressing shutter release don't engage whole metering/exposure sequence - when release is kept pressed, metering circuit is closed and it works properly. If release is quickly freed, metering is interrupted and so we are.

Seems I need to look for more info on how metering is engaged and freed. I guess I need to adjust some from shafts, accessible with removed bottom cover, something comes to mind. When pressing release, I hear early "click", before shutter is activated...nah, will go read and think.

 

[btgc]

Bingo - sorted out! having impression, that metering doesn't catch when shutter release is depressed, removed bottom cover and turned clockwise (one time) shaft next to one, corresponding to release button. To clear things up - when one presses release button, on bottom moves thin shaft. So thicker one seems to adjust metering engagement - this were turned...and now it works like should!

 

[caperunner]

Good news! Shutter should latch open momentarily after pressing the button to allow the camera's electronic shutter to make the correct exposure.
example: very low light, a tripod, and the exposure will be quite long sometimes about 30 secs. Have used mine this way and towards the end of the exposure time the shutter solenoids will start to 'chatter' - making a buzzing sound. Interesting cameras!
As you have discovered there is no need to keep pressing the shutter down unless in 'B' mode.

 

[btgc]

Have used mine this way and towards the end of the exposure time the shutter solenoids will start to 'chatter' - making a buzzing sound. Interesting cameras!

this makes them not stealthy in dim light ! 😱 🙂

As you have discovered there is no need to keep pressing the shutter down unless in 'B' mode.

mkey...I knew this is wrong and worried what went out of alignment. I'm not a gym instructor to keep release pressed for 30sec. ! 😎
Thanks for support, btw!

 

[Eugen Mezei]

May I ask a beginners question: What is POD?

Eugen

 

[luketrash]

POD = Pad Of Death

A foam pad inside on the shutter release rots away, turns to black goo, and causes electrical contact problems.