alienmeatsack
Well-known
Here are two of the shots I took with the 101...
The first was the very first shot, it's out of focus for some reason even though it was set to focus at the distance, and underexposed.
Dusk Out of Focus by alienmeatsack, on Flickr
Second was shot in broad daylight at the "normal" exposure and you can see it's also underexposed.
Trees Against Blue Sky by alienmeatsack, on Flickr
Final shot was handheld, set all the way to the Lightest setting and the exposure is about right. It's blurry because I am not super steady and the shutter was open way longer then I expected.
Self-Portrait (Blurry) by alienmeatsack, on Flickr
The first was the very first shot, it's out of focus for some reason even though it was set to focus at the distance, and underexposed.
Dusk Out of Focus by alienmeatsack, on Flickr
Second was shot in broad daylight at the "normal" exposure and you can see it's also underexposed.
Trees Against Blue Sky by alienmeatsack, on Flickr
Final shot was handheld, set all the way to the Lightest setting and the exposure is about right. It's blurry because I am not super steady and the shutter was open way longer then I expected.
Self-Portrait (Blurry) by alienmeatsack, on Flickr
mooge
Well-known
My 250 is funny like that too-- proper exposures for sort of 'normal' light are at +1,5 or so. for both 100c and 3000b.
weirder still is the first photo I ever took with it was properly exposed; I don't think I did any exposure compensating.
I've taken it apart and all and there doesn't seem to be anything obviously wrong with it. could be electronics, maybe the photocell. I just live with it.
For RF adjustment-
take apart an empty pack of film, use the front (light) facing part of the pack only and run a strip of tape (the clear but frosted type) across the film side of the pack. keep it taught and that's where the film plane is. I've never adjusted the two-window type but the 250's Zeiss finder is adjusted with three setscrews pressing against a mirror. If I recall. It's been a while.
(I'm gonna miss this stuff when it's gone...)
weirder still is the first photo I ever took with it was properly exposed; I don't think I did any exposure compensating.
I've taken it apart and all and there doesn't seem to be anything obviously wrong with it. could be electronics, maybe the photocell. I just live with it.
For RF adjustment-
take apart an empty pack of film, use the front (light) facing part of the pack only and run a strip of tape (the clear but frosted type) across the film side of the pack. keep it taught and that's where the film plane is. I've never adjusted the two-window type but the 250's Zeiss finder is adjusted with three setscrews pressing against a mirror. If I recall. It's been a while.
(I'm gonna miss this stuff when it's gone...)
alienmeatsack
Well-known
I took two properly exposed shots this morning with it, both set to the maximum Lighten setting. I think it will have to live there except for maybe MX shots. The camera seems to work nicely though minus the need to clean the viewfinder portion. (Something I hope to do one of the evenings this week.)
I haven't used any expired Polaroid films in the pack cameras yet, but this Fuji film really is amazingly sharp (when the shot's in focus) and the colors are rich. The black and white is also amazing, it's a shame it is going away.
I am getting excited about the 250. It has a few more bells and whistles over the 101 (like the extra apertures) that will be fun.
I think I am going to buy another 10-20 packs of the BW if I can find it still at the original price. I noticed that many places that were selling it for $8.50-10 each are now well over $10 each for it since it was "discontinued".
On Amazon it went up to $15, ouch. It is in stock there via Prime.
B&H is still $9.95 USD a pop at least. And they are out of stock. (No option to order to hold stock.)
Adorama also has the FP-3000b for under $10 but also out of stock. (Can order to hold your stock.)
Freestyle Photo is $11.99, also out of stock.
There are also other places who currently have stock but they are raising their prices.
I haven't used any expired Polaroid films in the pack cameras yet, but this Fuji film really is amazingly sharp (when the shot's in focus) and the colors are rich. The black and white is also amazing, it's a shame it is going away.
I am getting excited about the 250. It has a few more bells and whistles over the 101 (like the extra apertures) that will be fun.
I think I am going to buy another 10-20 packs of the BW if I can find it still at the original price. I noticed that many places that were selling it for $8.50-10 each are now well over $10 each for it since it was "discontinued".
On Amazon it went up to $15, ouch. It is in stock there via Prime.
B&H is still $9.95 USD a pop at least. And they are out of stock. (No option to order to hold stock.)
Adorama also has the FP-3000b for under $10 but also out of stock. (Can order to hold your stock.)
Freestyle Photo is $11.99, also out of stock.
There are also other places who currently have stock but they are raising their prices.
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Ezzie
E. D. Russell Roberts
Normally my 250 needs +1 to 1.5 stops too. In order to regain a bit of exposure latitude I have scotch taped the electric eye and coloured it red with a marker pen. It is semitransparent still, but it fools the eye into overexposing a stop or so. I think it is a matter of the capacitor aging, it happens to all of them eventually.
alienmeatsack
Well-known
I now have 30 packs of Fuji FP3000b on it's way through various sources. That is going to have to do as I just cannot store anymore nor can I justify the cost when I have Xmas and such coming.
Hopefully maybe after the holidays, if there is still stock I can grab a few more. Who knows maybe Fuji will change their minds and make more.
But, I have 4 cameras to shoot it with, and I will enjoy every pack!
Hopefully maybe after the holidays, if there is still stock I can grab a few more. Who knows maybe Fuji will change their minds and make more.
But, I have 4 cameras to shoot it with, and I will enjoy every pack!
Godfrey
somewhat colored
I have twelve packs on hand, 120 exposures, for my Land 350. That's enough, I'll enjoy every frame and use it sparingly.
G
alienmeatsack
Well-known
Godfrey, if it were only that simple for me. I have OCD and a desperate need to gather and squirrel away anything and everything that I think might go away whether it will or not.
It helps me in some ways like when collecting old films to shoot. Not so much when it comes to things like shoes and t-shirts and similar. lol.
It helps me in some ways like when collecting old films to shoot. Not so much when it comes to things like shoes and t-shirts and similar. lol.
alienmeatsack
Well-known
A few of the shots I took today with the 101, set all the way to the lightest setting.
Dead Tree against Sky by alienmeatsack, on Flickr
Maples by alienmeatsack, on Flickr
Dead Tree against Sky by alienmeatsack, on Flickr
Maples by alienmeatsack, on Flickr
robert blu
quiet photographer
I only have one pack of FP-3000B left! I was going to place an order for 10 packs to use during Christmas holidays when this new came out and now the film is out of stock in most places
robert
robert
Pete B
Well-known
My "The Button" under exposes with impossible sx70. Do I turn the dial towards the white squares or the black squares? Ie do the white squares mean '"overexpose' or do they mean 'it's bright so underexpose'?
Pete
Pete
Godfrey
somewhat colored
Polaroid controls always act in the positive. Turn the control to the white squares to lighten the print, to the black squares to darken the print.
G
Pete B
Well-known
Thanks Godfrey.
Pete
Pete
alienmeatsack
Well-known
Robert, look for places online that allow you to setup a notification for new stock. I know B&H has a notification system for when they get more stock in. This is how I got the 10 packs I ordered yesterday.
And, according to their site currently they have the FP3000b in stock as I type this. It has gone up in price to $11 instead of $10 USD per unit as of the last few days however. I assume this is due to the shortages.
I still have an "order" in for 10 with Adorama on back-order with no idea if and when it will be filled. If I don't see it happen soon and B&H has stock I'll get it there.
And, according to their site currently they have the FP3000b in stock as I type this. It has gone up in price to $11 instead of $10 USD per unit as of the last few days however. I assume this is due to the shortages.
I still have an "order" in for 10 with Adorama on back-order with no idea if and when it will be filled. If I don't see it happen soon and B&H has stock I'll get it there.
robert blu
quiet photographer
Ordered 10 packs by B&H should arrive in Italy next week. I have to share them with a friend (5 each one). I'll look for other places as well, thanks, ciao
robert
PS: I found a few in an italian online store, but it is more expensive than buying from the USA including shipping cost!
robert
PS: I found a few in an italian online store, but it is more expensive than buying from the USA including shipping cost!
alienmeatsack
Well-known
Funny how that works. I wonder why it's so much more there? Import fees or something perhaps?
alienmeatsack
Well-known
My first round of 10 packs of FP3000b arrived yesterday. I still have two more rounds coming, one on back order and one shipped.
In my worries to get plenty of BW while it was available, I let my color supplies dwindle and I'm down to 3 of those. I guess I need to get some of those too.
I'm also still waiting for the 250 I won to ship, but enjoying the 101 just the same. I still have not run any film through the other one I found at the resell shop for cheap though.
Sadly the weather is turning yucky which means more inside shooting for me. I need to try and rig up some means to do self-portraits. Is there any way to trigger a Polaroid via a cable or extended button? Is the button on the 101 and 250 a physical button like the Land Camera Colorpack or is it a switch that could jumpered and extended?
In my worries to get plenty of BW while it was available, I let my color supplies dwindle and I'm down to 3 of those. I guess I need to get some of those too.
I'm also still waiting for the 250 I won to ship, but enjoying the 101 just the same. I still have not run any film through the other one I found at the resell shop for cheap though.
Sadly the weather is turning yucky which means more inside shooting for me. I need to try and rig up some means to do self-portraits. Is there any way to trigger a Polaroid via a cable or extended button? Is the button on the 101 and 250 a physical button like the Land Camera Colorpack or is it a switch that could jumpered and extended?
alienmeatsack
Well-known
My LC 350 finally shipped. I am excited to get it and check it out. Based on what I've seen online, it appears to be very similar to the 101 in look and feel. But, as long as it works and is clean Ill be happy.
So, I will have 2 of the old style polaroid flashes now. I was thinking of trying to do a conversion on one of them to use newer flash technology. Has anyone here done this? Or should I just try to find a means to convert the flash plug on the Polaroid to a newer hot shoe style and use a regular flash in there?
My initial thought was to measure the voltage output when the flash was triggered at the bulb source, then replace the guts of the black part of the flash unit with a battery and capacitor that could hold a strong enough charge. I'd then use a relay to trigger the release of the capacitor's charge and it would illuminate a LED, most likely a Cree or similar super bright LED that could produce strong enough light without using the battery up too quickly.
But as I thought about it, I decided it may be easier to buy a small older flash unit and just take it apart and rebuild it into the old Polaroid flash unit, putting the light portion into the flash bulb area, maintaining the old look but with newer/reusable technology.
Thoughts?
So, I will have 2 of the old style polaroid flashes now. I was thinking of trying to do a conversion on one of them to use newer flash technology. Has anyone here done this? Or should I just try to find a means to convert the flash plug on the Polaroid to a newer hot shoe style and use a regular flash in there?
My initial thought was to measure the voltage output when the flash was triggered at the bulb source, then replace the guts of the black part of the flash unit with a battery and capacitor that could hold a strong enough charge. I'd then use a relay to trigger the release of the capacitor's charge and it would illuminate a LED, most likely a Cree or similar super bright LED that could produce strong enough light without using the battery up too quickly.
But as I thought about it, I decided it may be easier to buy a small older flash unit and just take it apart and rebuild it into the old Polaroid flash unit, putting the light portion into the flash bulb area, maintaining the old look but with newer/reusable technology.
Thoughts?
3rdtrick
Well-known
Just plug your flash PC connector into the camera. I know it is M sync but they still work well with the electronic flash. Just make sure you release the shutter button or it will stay open. I use a handle flash but you can attach a cold shoe onto the base of the Polaroid flash.
Your 350 is the same as the 250 with the addition of an electronic timer. You may need to take the timer out to keep from fouling the Fuji film packs.
Your 101 is the same as my 102 and has the 3 element glass lens. Only having two choices of aperture 8.8 Color and 42 B&W limit it to daytime use but will take excellent pics.
The 340 is another 'sleeper' because it has the glass lens but the plastic body lets it go cheap. There is one on SGW now.
Pete
Your 350 is the same as the 250 with the addition of an electronic timer. You may need to take the timer out to keep from fouling the Fuji film packs.
Your 101 is the same as my 102 and has the 3 element glass lens. Only having two choices of aperture 8.8 Color and 42 B&W limit it to daytime use but will take excellent pics.
The 340 is another 'sleeper' because it has the glass lens but the plastic body lets it go cheap. There is one on SGW now.
Pete
alienmeatsack
Well-known
SGW has been dangerous for me lately. I've bid on several things thinking there's no way I'd get them and I did. lol.
I don't have a PC connector flash. All of mine are hot shoe style. I guess I can find an adapter for it somewhere. I read that one of the pins on their plug is just there to push something out of the way for the flash and has no actual use otherwise.
I'd still like to try find a cheap and small electronic flash I can cram into the old style body and use the big reflector dish as part of it, to keep it looking old school. I've been looking for small flashes on the auction and SGW sites and still pondering my idea of building one that just triggers a capacitor dump to a Kree or similar LED.
I don't have a PC connector flash. All of mine are hot shoe style. I guess I can find an adapter for it somewhere. I read that one of the pins on their plug is just there to push something out of the way for the flash and has no actual use otherwise.
I'd still like to try find a cheap and small electronic flash I can cram into the old style body and use the big reflector dish as part of it, to keep it looking old school. I've been looking for small flashes on the auction and SGW sites and still pondering my idea of building one that just triggers a capacitor dump to a Kree or similar LED.
3rdtrick
Well-known
Polaroid had a 'wink light' for the old roll film cameras that did exactly that. A capacitor dumped 3000 volts into a 12 volt flashlight lamp. It was not as bright as a modern electronic flash but did give enough extra light for the 3000 ISO film.
The flat tab tells the shutter circuitry that the flash is connected and sets the shutter speed. Without it, you just need to make sure you lift your finger off the button after firing the shutter.
The flat tab tells the shutter circuitry that the flash is connected and sets the shutter speed. Without it, you just need to make sure you lift your finger off the button after firing the shutter.