ManfromH - good for you getting into the darkroom. One thing you mentioned I should caution you on though - don't evaluate when your print is done processing based on how it looks. At least for a while, stick to the set time the paper manufacturer recommends for whatever developer you are using. Reason being, it is hard to judge exactly what have when looking at it under chemistry in safe light. The first tones that "come up" on the paper in the developer are your darkest areas, which will come up even faster if you are using RC paper. The lighter areas of your prints - the zone 6, 7 and 8 areas, take longer to fully develop, and while you think they may be done, they may need the full time, or (even more.) By pulling your print out early you are cheating yourself of getting the full range of your negative in the print. Rest assured that the tone of your blacks have already been detrmined first by the exposure and development of your film, and then by the exposure in your enlarger. The whites are much more dependent on length of time in the developer, so while the blacks come in fast, they won't be much affected by the rest of the time spent in the developer.
Perhaps the most important reason for not developing your prints by "feel," is that it is hard to quantify what you've done and repeat it in the future. Try to establish a baseline starting point for a good print, and if you have to overdevelop a little more or less, you can make a note of that for the future. There are just too many variables in the whole proces of getting to the final print to allow developing time to be a guessing game. Make your creative decisions for what you want the print to look like from your test strips, and then stick your decisions and evaluate the print from there.
Hope that helps a bit.