Poly Pan F iso 50 film

raytoei@gmail.com said:
i took the leap and used polypan f 50@100 for some portrait work,

the difference was the lighting with flash.

and skin tones.

the below pix was taken with the Hexar AF with PPF exposed at iso 100

way overdeveloped in Rodinal stand.

and scanned with the minolta 5400 scanner

ilovefilm.jpg
Click to expand...

That really nice
 
Without an anti-halation layer,
PPF is susceptible to blown highlights especially
on reflected surfaces....(in my opinion)...

--------------------------------
Hexar AF with Sunpak 120J
Film is Polypan F 50, ei 1001
Developed in Rodinal 1+100 for 35mins@30c

smile.jpg

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Just did some experiments pushing to 100 and 200 in Caffenol-C-L. Both in the vicinity of 70–75 min. at 20ºC. The roll at 200 came out a bit thin, but still usable. I'd maybe increase to 90 min. or so. Contrast seems to be pretty well in control; I actually added some to both, along with some burning and dodging.


img763.jpg by Thanimalia, on Flickr


img767.jpg by Thanimalia, on Flickr
 
No experience with Lucky film. Polypan F quality control is comparable to Fuji/Kodak/Ilford. No random dirt embedded in the film base, no emulsion coating problems, no sign of the film having been dropped on a studio floor, stepped on, and then respooled. Sprocket hole spacing is even. The film is thinner than others. It's a little glowy against light sources. Grain looks ok although I've not used other 100 speed film. Since grain size is affected by development technique, choice of developers and temperature, etc so YMMV.
I switched to a D23-Hydroquinone-HC110-DDX highball and water bath development. I like the contrast, tonal range, and grain better. Developing time is under 3 minutes instead of stand developing for 30 in 1+43 DDX that I used previously.


lotuscafeubudbali on Flickr
 
i find that my pictures come out nicer with PPF,
dunno why, maybe it's the low iso or the constrast
or the lack of anti halation layer...


here are two more images from the last roll:

CL + Jupiter-8
roll2-clj8-ppfa100-2.jpg


M2 + Summaron f2.8
roll1-m2summaron-ppfa100-14o-small.jpg
 
I have some problems developing Polypan F with Rodinal 1:50 (11 min).

I did three developments of film (fortunately only testing focus and shutter - no "real" images) in Rodinal and each film got many black spots - about 1-2 mm size - on the negatives. They are both at the images and the perforation.

What can be the reason for this?
(I have successfully used Rodinal at Fomapan (both 100 and 400) and Adox CHS 50 and did not get this spots.)
 
This is normal with Polypan, scans require lots of spotting work.
 
okay. i did not get issues with PPF
however i have a friend with similar issue.
other issues with ppf include sticky when
stuck in the dark bag for too long.

i think ppf could be temperature and
humidity sensitive.

raytoei
 
Ray, do you use neutral or acidic fixer? Polypan has thin emulsion so I wondered if it has anything to do with acidic stop bath or fix, but had no opportunity to check.

Also, if you get denser negs the spots are much less visible. Getting a good density out of PP with compensating developer is tricky though.
 
hi varjag,

a. i use ilford rapid fixer.

b. i don't get the spots, maybe it's because
they are always quite dense.

the have black dots in shanghai 120 film, which i
attributed to temp o moisture change during shipping / handling.
not sure if this is same reason why ppf may have spots

raytoei
 
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