Possibly Dying Nikon F3HP

[huddy]

Casting a line out to the internet in case anyone has seen this before and got it resolved.

I just bought a nice F3 from a reputable ebay seller that was listed as working. It arrived and felt great until a few shots in the roll when the shutter release and meter became inactive. I've run through cleaning of the battery housing, new batteries, cycling the shutter mechanically with the dial set to new values. The meter and shutter occasionally function for a few shots at a time and then stop functioning again. It's a shame as this is a newer model (1990 vintage) and mechanically/cosmetically very good condition.

Has anyone seen this condition and been able to resolve it with only a CLA or has this been more in the realm of main PCB or electromagnetic shutter release assembly replacement territory? I'm inclined to think it may be the latter and the repair technician from Blue Moon Camera in Oregon thought it would likely be one of those also when I talked to them on the phone.

Thanks,
Alan

 

[Sonnar Brian]

My F3AF has never done that, it is older than yours- 1983.

Will the seller take it back? It sounds like it needs repair. It could be just a CLA required, but you never know.

 

[shimokita]

I did experience something similar... just one possibility ; )

I had been using my F3HP with no issues
I set it aside an brought out my F3P for some weeks
When returning to the F3HP... nothing, just dead

Turns out the previous owner had shot in the rain
and water had leaked into / around the shutter (cable release)
and corrupted some of the electrical connections
Had the camera serviced and works like a champ.

BTW the F3P has a different shutter arrangement
with a rubber cap over the shutter and no cable release hole

The F3HP has a mechanical shutter release that doesn't rely
on battery power... just for fun give that a try...

Good luck...

 

[huddy]

Thanks for the replies. The seller has offered to take a full refund or a deep discount to so that I can get it serviced. I'm wondering if maybe it got chilled and ended up getting condensation during shipment. It's also possible even that the camera got cold and had internal condensation develop during shipment as it is cold enough for that to happen this time of year.

I think I'm going to reach out to the seller about sending it in for an evaluation as if it turns out to be just something minor like a bit of corrosion, perhaps that can be cleaned and I have a very smooth nice camera. If it ends up dead, I'm only out the shipping cost and can get a refund.

I have considered going for the F3P model as the weather sealing is improved. I'm torn as I love having a Tom A softie on my cameras but also want them to keep working... I definitely enjoyed the feel of the F3 with a prime lens better than the FE2 (which I still enjoy).

 

[shimokita]

One slight advantage the HP has over the P is the remote cable release... there is no cable release on the F3P. My F3HP is strictly a backup for the F3P...

Since the standard P also does not have a self timer, there is no way for a remote / shake-free shutter release even on a tripod. There is a workaround if you are using the MD-4 Motor Drive... there is a tiny device called MR-3 that can hook onto the electrical terminal of the hand grip as a secondary shutter release button -and- the MR-3 (but not the earlier MR-2) is threaded to accept other accessories including a cable release.

 

[dtcls100]

Take the refund. Could be a cracked FRE chip that is located under the rewind knob, which is essentially unrepairable these days with replacement chips being so hard to find. This chip is easily cracked if one mounts a flash over the rewind knob and something bumps the flash moderately hard. This is essentially a design defect in the F3 and why one should never use the rewind knob flash mount on this camera.

 

[huddy]

Take the refund. Could be a cracked FRE chip that is located under the rewind knob, which is essentially unrepairable these days with replacement chips being so hard to find. This chip is easily cracked if one mounts a flash over the rewind knob and something bumps the flash moderately hard. This is essentially a design defect in the F3 and why one should never use the rewind knob flash mount on this camera.

I ended up taking a refund for the price of a full CLA (in case it's minor corrosion and recoverable) as that puts my remaining cost in the body low enough to sell the finder (very good condition) and body together or separately to cover my costs and come out ahead. If it proves unrepairable, I'm going to look for another, perhaps the unit for sale in the classifieds right now.

I know it's a fool's hope, but this a film SLR that I'd happily pay $1500-2000 if they made a manual only version that fixed the design defects. The fit/feel in hand is so much nicer than the smaller amateur bodies which I already enjoy. (waits for someone to suggest going and buying an F2! Perhaps I will one day.)

 

[Gregm61]

Take the refund. Could be a cracked FRE chip that is located under the rewind knob, which is essentially unrepairable these days with replacement chips being so hard to find. This chip is easily cracked if one mounts a flash over the rewind knob and something bumps the flash moderately hard. This is essentially a design defect in the F3 and why one should never use the rewind knob flash mount on this camera.

I had to have that (it was/is a wafer-thin glass piece) replaced twice during the 1990’s. The part from Nikon was $25. I considered buying 10-20 of ‘em at one point, figuring some day they might be worth their weight in gold.

The day will come when there are F3’s with those plates broken everywhere....and probably more than a few will be sold that way....

And F2 bodies will still be churning on.....

 

[Timmyjoe]

Take the refund. Could be a cracked FRE chip that is located under the rewind knob, which is essentially unrepairable these days with replacement chips being so hard to find. This chip is easily cracked if one mounts a flash over the rewind knob and something bumps the flash moderately hard. This is essentially a design defect in the F3 and why one should never use the rewind knob flash mount on this camera.

I had a beautiful F3HP that died just this way. Cracked FRE chip from using a flash above the rewind knob. Not repairable. Total shame as the rest of the camera was pristine. Ended up parting it out, finder, focus screen, back door, motor drive.

Always wanted to find an F3P in as good shape as I like to use a flash with the camera, and the F3P has a hot shoe mounted above the viewfinder.

Best,
-Tim

 

[Noserider]

An FRE going is not totally common but is a weird weakness in the F3. I have had maybe 7-9 F3's over the years and had 3-4 in rotation as daily use news shooting and then in wedding work so they got used hard. I only had one that had a cracked FRE, and that body I got used from a fellow news shooter and he used it hard (switched systems I recall) and he got it used from a paper's news pool, so the impact/crack could have happened at any point. Funny story about that body it had a 12xxxx serial number and the last time it got sent in to Nikon (was NPS member back when it was HARD to be a member) and it came back with a new top cover with new serial number of 19xxx. This was at probably the very tail end of Nikon's official support for the F3 and I supposed that they were cleaning out NOS parts, but I bet there are a few well worn F3's on the inside with late serial numbers out there. I still have and occasionally use that body and it is rock solid, so I figure everything that could've broken or worn out has already been fixed.

 

[Noserider]

Oh and one other point; I've seen and there are images of the FRE and I don't think it looks very difficult to remake one.

 

[huddy]

Sounds like a good shape F3P is really the way to go long term, although I'd be sad to give up using a Tom A. softie. Thanks for the info everyone!