Post your drum scans (aka the first official Drum Scanners thread)

Well, that is a good one. Didn't know that SDS = Kami. So, oil or dry mounting it is for me.

Yes, I get the regular shaped crazing. But I don't consider a few minutes to be a "long time on the drum".
 
I have left my film mounted on my drum for 3 days with Scan Science Fluid and didn't have a problem. My drum is still crystal clear.
 
MineSix66 said:
I have left my film mounted on my drum for 3 days with Scan Science Fluid and didn't have a problem. My drum is still crystal clear.
Click to expand...

Of course. Wouldn't make any sense otherwise.

KAMI's official FAQ says that they've tested Aztek drum submerged in Kami fluids for 90h without any damage to the drum. They also say that Kami WILL cause crazing on "damaged drums".

I guess there are quite a few damaged drums around. I'm just trying to find a type of fluid that will work OK even with damaged drums (and still be as convenient as possible to use).
 
Hi, I´m new to drumscanning and looking for advise on how to edit the scans in PS. (Maybe the intention of this thread is not about "how to", but rather of showing final images. Although, if you can´t help me here, please give me tips of where to look.)

I´m scanning Fuji acros 100 (taken with Mamiya 7 II, 50mm) on a Scanmate 5000, as positive 16bit grayscale TIFFs and with no sharpening.

When I open and invert the image in PS it´s low contrast and looks very flat (as I understand is normal). So, what are the first steps of getting a good medium contrast image? Especially, how to increase local contrast among the mid-tones? I take pictures of forests in a documentary style (i.e. not so much about showing dramatic nature), but as much of the tones in such pictures is too alike it´s getting very grey.

Has anyone got experience working with luminosity mask on B/W images? I can´t find any good tutorial on this matter, so I would be very glad if someone could share their workflow.

testscan.jpg

The example I attach is scanned at 5000 dpi, but resampled to 1200 and with JPEG compression.
 
first step would be to correct levels.
pull the left and right levers together so the black/white point is actually at the start and end of the curve.
 
jzagaja said:
I'm affraid FilterMeister plugin cannot be compiled on Mac. But it saves result as AMP file anyway (2D look up table). It's simple plugin and same things can be done with Levels/Curves - I nave collection of curves for that. I wrote it 10 years ago. Have also another with modern interesting GUI.
Click to expand...

Just wondering... if it's an 8bf plugin, that means it's a Photoshop plugin (that can also run under e.g. PhotoLine).

I thought that these plugins work equally on Mac and Windows? They actually have to be compiled separately?
 
Erik Mikael said:
Hi, I´m new to drumscanning and looking for advise on how to edit the scans in PS. (Maybe the intention of this thread is not about "how to", but rather of showing final images. Although, if you can´t help me here, please give me tips of where to look.)

I´m scanning Fuji acros 100 (taken with Mamiya 7 II, 50mm) on a Scanmate 5000, as positive 16bit grayscale TIFFs and with no sharpening.

When I open and invert the image in PS it´s low contrast and looks very flat (as I understand is normal). So, what are the first steps of getting a good medium contrast image? Especially, how to increase local contrast among the mid-tones? I take pictures of forests in a documentary style (i.e. not so much about showing dramatic nature), but as much of the tones in such pictures is too alike it´s getting very grey.

Has anyone got experience working with luminosity mask on B/W images? I can´t find any good tutorial on this matter, so I would be very glad if someone could share their workflow.

testscan.jpg

The example I attach is scanned at 5000 dpi, but resampled to 1200 and with JPEG compression.
Click to expand...

You may actually want to look into other programs... personally, I find that the so-called "RAW Editors" are better suited for this kind of job. Especially since they are non-destructive.

These are my favorite free RAW Editors:
LightZone http://www.lightzoneproject.org/
Not the fastest, but very intuitive and comes with a lot of useful pre-defined "styles"

Photivo http://photivo.org/
Probably no other program has as many ways to tweak images, a bit too much almost, but I have gotten great results with it.

RawTherapee http://rawtherapee.com/
A long time contender, very stable, gets great results. I especially like the CIECAM02 settings, it's a very interesting concept.

And then there are plenty of commercial ones, e.g. Lightroom. But give the free ones a try first, and you may have no need for Lightroom afterall (I don't, long live open-source :)).
 
Daddy's first drum scanner

Daddy's first drum scanner

:)

I've been keeping my eye out over the last couple of years and was surprised to see an ICG 365 for sale locally. 3 drums, two mounting stations, Mac G3 loaded with software and spare hard drives. Not too bad.

Still trying to figure things out but was able to make a few test scans.

tumblr_np8f52vZHA1tq9da3o1_1280.jpg
 
So I purchased a drum scanner...

So I purchased a drum scanner...

About a year ago, I became disillusioned with the Plustek OF120 that I purchased. Unfortunately, I eventually had problems with three examples, including the dreaded banding issue, and I had no idea how I was going to get good quality scans...

I'd always browsed this thread and have loved the amazing images, but never really thought that I could afford a drum scanner. Then at the end of 2014, ScottyB70 posted an image from a ColorGetter 3 Pro. I'd never heard of this make, so I did a Google search... just as a complete ColorGetter Falcon system appeared locally on eBay, which could do 4,064 ppi, but was advertised as "non-working".

I took a chance and bought it, but due to no space and a house move, I have only now managed to see if I could get it going. It turned out that not only was the BIOS battery in the 486 controller PC dead, the PC itself was damaged.

After a lot of research, I replaced the battery, and sourced a new motherboard and video card from eBay. I was then able to reset the BIOS and the Falcon booted successfully without a problem.

My usual workflow is to make a linear scan of a negative, then invert in ColorPerfect. Fortunately, the software for the Falcon, which runs only on Mac OS9 has an easy method of doing this, following which the files were transferred to a modern computer for processing.

I am absolutely gobsmacked by how good a drum scan is, even with my quick-and-dirty dry scans - it totally blows away my FS4000US and the OF120 in terms of smoothness and detail.

The company I bought the Falcon from said they hardly ever used it and it shows - there is virtally no mark on it. Amazingly, it cost them about GBP27,000. I think my total outlay has been about GBP500, mainly because the mounting station was optional, the first owners had never bought one, and I had to get one in from the US.

Even so, I think it was worth it - now I just have to learn (i) to take some decent images, (ii) post-processing and (iii) how to wet mount.

For anyone thinking about a quality scanning solution, it's definitely worth looking around to see what's available. Lots of the expert comment here and on the Scan High-End Group helped me to get my machine up and running. I was quite lucky, but it's worth it - the image quality is night and day compared to what I had.
 
Erik Mikael said:
When I open and invert the image in PS it´s low contrast and looks very flat (as I understand is normal). So, what are the first steps of getting a good medium contrast image? Especially, how to increase local contrast among the mid-tones? I take pictures of forests in a documentary style (i.e. not so much about showing dramatic nature), but as much of the tones in such pictures is too alike it´s getting very grey.

Has anyone got experience working with luminosity mask on B/W images? I can´t find any good tutorial on this matter, so I would be very glad if someone could share their workflow.
Click to expand...

The answer you're looking for can probably be found in a speciefic tutorial here:

Working with B&W linear "flat" (drum-) scans

With curves you can control any tonality and bring it into tonality YOU like, with full control over every aspect of your image. And you can define your own creative curve presets as "styles" for each film emulsion or even a particular emulsion in a certain lightning condition. That's the way I do it.

Regards,
Margus
 
James1 said:
For anyone thinking about a quality scanning solution, it's definitely worth looking around to see what's available. Lots of the expert comment here and on the Scan High-End Group helped me to get my machine up and running. I was quite lucky, but it's worth it - the image quality is night and day compared to what I had.
Click to expand...

Excellent tagline, James! ;)

Congratulations for having been so brave. It's so easy to get discouraged after some issues, these are not simple machines.

Enjoy your drum scans!!

Fernando
 
I've finally now managed to try wet-mounting on the ColorGetter drum scanner which I acquired last year.

The film is ancient (33 years old when used) Orwo Color NC3 motion picture negative film, using self-mixed chemistry in the native process.

I am stunned how good a drum scanner is.

Thanks to Fernando, Margus for the brilliant tutorials and brbo for the wet-mounting tips:

23977868494_255c9e7be6_b.jpg
 
Test scan of a Velvia 50 slide that had expired almost 10 years prior to exposure leaving the resulting slide rather underexposed - a real challenge for any scanner. To my surprise the scan came out great. I'm simply stunned by the scanner's ability to dig into those deep, deep shadows!

25193746942_f4378cb990_o.jpg
 
 
Gilles78 said:
Netsoft2K, really good job :)
Congrats !

Do you use a iT8 target for colors adjustements with SM11K ?
Click to expand...

Thank you Gilles! Only the last two are IT8 calibrated scans. The first few were taken before I knew how to properly calibrate the scanner but what I found with my scanner is that I just needed to adjust the red channel to get very close to accurate.

Now that I have calibrated it, I can't believe I went so long without it. It's really worth calibrating these to get the best results.

Pali
 
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