Post your x-pro1 FW2.0 impressions

[tbarker13]

Nah. That's been sold. Just couldn't make it work for portraits.

 

[Buzz40]

Tbarker,
What problems did you have with the 60 and portraits? I'm ordering the Xpro1 and a few lenses next week, and I've been in a dilemma re a dedicated portrait lens. I was thinking the shallower dof available on the forthcoming 56/1.4 would be an advantage over the 60/2.4. I don't want to have to wait for it as I do quite a bit of portrait work, so I was thinking the 60 with sw upgrades might be suitable. Anyway, I'd appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.

 

[tbarker13]

I shoot a lot in a dark studio. That lens, at least before the recent upgrade, just wasn't made for focusing in that setting. The modeling lights on my flashes don't provide enough light to help the lens focus.
And I found it to be too slow to focus, in general. Maybe it has gotten better.

 

[Herjulfr]

Something is not right with your lens update.

After some testing i have realised that manual focusing is now really improved. The "slow" part is when between 1 meter and 0,5 meter. So i think it's allright. Its almost like focusing with a traditional lens. Almost...

 

[f16sunshine]

Wow! Finally returned to Seattle and have a solid internet connection. The 60mm is like a different lens! Much faster and seems spot on in the few dozen test frames I have snapped. The 35 also seems to respond quicker although, I never had any complaints.
VF refresh seems better as well. Now if only Apple would get their Sh!t together on RAW compatibility for Aperture 😀

 

[kufelt]

tbarker: The question about 60mm for portraits:
after the fw upgrade it does focus pretty fast as long as you are at least couple of meters away from the subject. It is spot on and really sharp so it should suit you pretty well.

 

[M4-I-Love]

I'm using 2.0 now. Still miss focus quit a bit. I think I have to slow down, hold camera with both hands and gently squeeze the shutter. Blur could also be due to low shutter speed selected by the camera (1/52). Also I tend to take only one shot and move on. Bad habit from using film. With digital I should be able to get one more shot before my subject realizes they are being photographed.

Also when I rush my shots, I usually though that I have placed the green box on the subject but when I review the image on back LCD, the focus is on the background :bang:.

I tried using manual 1/125 and f1.4 with auto iso set to 1600. I thought that the iso would auto adjust to whatever it needs to be to get correct exposure. But I was getting overexposed pics, no maybe it's not doing that.

I only have the 35 1.4.

 

[GaryLH]

I tried using manual 1/125 and f1.4 with auto iso set to 1600. I thought that the iso would auto adjust to whatever it needs to be to get correct exposure. But I was getting overexposed pics, no maybe it's not doing that.

I only have the 35 1.4.

In manual mode the exposure compensation indicator on far left becomes your meter... Shooting at 125 and f1.4 in bright sun light even at lowest iso will cause over exposure.. Make sure u set the f stop or shutter speed so that the exposure meter shows zero...

On your comments just wanted to make sure u are seeing the focus shift window movement in ovf mode if u are shooting close, since the default after a fw update is to disable it (called correct af frame). Your description sounds like the double target window is not active.. In the ovf u should c a dead center af target window for far focus objects and one slight to the right bottom of the center af target for close objects. With the new fw update anything closer than about 1.5 ft switch to evf.

Hope that helps
Gary

 

[M4-I-Love]

Thank you for the reply. Yes I have set so that I see two focus boxes in the OVF. I think I need to slow down my shooting. Need time to digest all the OVF info. Need to check that I'm framing correctly in OVF etc. Need to be aware of what is outside the frame and what is in the background.

Yet at the same time, I need to shoot as fast as I can for street. I guess shoot more, get use to the camera.

Also I'm going back to shooting wide open with speed dial set to A.

 

[GaryLH]

Thank you for the reply. Yes I have set so that I see two focus boxes in the OVF. I think I need to slow down my shooting. Need time to digest all the OVF info. Need to check that I'm framing correctly in OVF etc. Need to be aware of what is outside the frame and what is in the background.

Yet at the same time, I need to shoot as fast as I can for street. I guess shoot more, get use to the camera.

Also I'm going back to shooting wide open with speed dial set to A.

Sounds like u got a plan
Gary

 

[gavinlg]

Thank you for the reply. Yes I have set so that I see two focus boxes in the OVF. I think I need to slow down my shooting. Need time to digest all the OVF info. Need to check that I'm framing correctly in OVF etc. Need to be aware of what is outside the frame and what is in the background.

Yet at the same time, I need to shoot as fast as I can for street. I guess shoot more, get use to the camera.

Also I'm going back to shooting wide open with speed dial set to A.

Just turn off all the unnecessary info in the OVF - all those grids and lines and icons. Stick to basics. Make sure AF correction frame is on.

 

[M4-I-Love]

I have turned off the blue bar (distance scale). The grid I love it 😀. Maybe slowly I will turn off more stuff from the OVF, but honestly ... The biggies are the grid and the artificial horizon.

Maybe I'll try turn off the grid for a few days and see if my pics turn out tilted. 😱

 

[GaryLH]

U can cycle thru display modes

U can cycle thru display modes

I have turned off the blue bar (distance scale). The grid I love it 😀. Maybe slowly I will turn off more stuff from the OVF, but honestly ... The biggies are the grid and the artificial horizon.

Maybe I'll try turn off the grid for a few days and see if my pics turn out tilted. 😱

U can go from custom to minimal via the display button if I remember correctly.. Don't have the camera in front of me right now.

Gary