Post your X-Pro1 images...

Taken with an X-Pro1 and a Leica LTM 90/4 lens (circa 1937).

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Just got an X Pro1 and 35mm over the weekend, my first Fuji. A few from the morning walk, trying to figure things out.

I'm very surprised at how much the 35 AF hunts, even in bright light. I shoot mostly street/candids, so this could be a challenge. I love the OVF, and the 35 framelines are just right. Also like the B&W output very much.

Is the 35 typical of X AF speeds? Or are the newer X lenses faster? I was really hoping for a 50mm companion for my GR.

John
 
Johnwolf

Make sure your body firmware (fw) is at least 3.1.. If I remember latest is 3.2. If your lens fw is out of date, the body sw will detect and warn u at startup.

How responsive the af is based on both the camera body digital processing power, the mass of the lens material the af motor needs to move and the specific design of the af motor itself. The 18, 35 and 60 were first gen lens designs and they tend to be slower then say the newer 18-55 kit zoom for example. Of the three original lenses, the 18 is slightly faster and the 60 is the slowest.

The newest camera body, xt1, should be able to make the af speed of the 35 faster due to better CPU and digital hw.

I have both a GR and xp1. The GR is faster than a 35 w/ xp1. The 18-55 is pretty close to the GR, I can't remember which is faster.

The Fuji cameras will hunt if they c too much bland little to no contrast in the frame.. But most contrast detact af will do the same except those that have have detect cells as well. Look for strong lines in your picture for the af patch to use. Also u can adjust the size of the af patch when using evf or LCD by using the af button on the left side and the knurl above the 4 way. Depending on situations I will sometimes use a 30-45 degree angle of the line in question to get the af to lock, then reframe for final shot. This is because the Fuji af sensor is sensitive to horizontal vs vertical lines..

In terms of street, a technique I know some people use is to go manual focus, use the afl button to af lock on a location and wait for people to walk into the zone. Or just setup zone/scale focus.

Hope that helps
Gary
 
Thank you, Gary. My camera and lens firmware are current, and my first day out was bright with good contrast. So I guess it is what it is and what I'm experiencing.

I'll try manual focus using the AFL button. And I've got an adapter coming for my Voigtlander 25 that I hope to use hyperfocally.

I'm sure I'll adapt. It seems like a great companion to tne GR, with very similar BW rendering. Appreciate your response.

John
 
Some of the best photography I've seen on the internet is heavily concentrated in this thread! I was going to start commenting on individual photos, but there were simply too many. Its diverse, great use of color, great tones when in B&W...I'm wondering if great photographers choose the X-Pro 1!
 
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