Precautions for using Kiev 4A

nukecoke

⚛Yashica
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I finally purchased a 1969 Kiev 4A type-2, considering it's "World's Finest 35mm Rangefinder Camera" . The package is on the way to me.

The camera looks good and I decided to trust the seller this time :angel:. I've been reading posts on RFF yesterday, regarding problems that are easy to be overlooked at first sight, like uneven spacing, wobbling take-up spool, light leaks from Yak hair seal and so on.

I've already made a homemade spool under the instruction of:
http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/kievspool.jpg
Also picked up the sponge light seal that haven't failed me when dealing with my Yashicas and Canon-7 in the past. Now just waiting for the camera fly from Kiev to Sweden.

Is there any other things I need to pay attention when get the camera on my hand? Thanks in advance!
 
Just hope it will be in tip-top usable condition when it arrives.

The 4 and 4a type 2 are nice Kievs, not as nice as the early to mid 1950s Kiev 2 but better than the ones made in 1973 and later.

I would say to you to practice the Contax grip when you get the camera.
 
As per above, practice the "Contax grip". One thing that may throw you is that lens focus goes the "wrong" way (opposite to most others), that one still catches me out a lot! Personally I'd check out the spool clutch before loading film. Hold the spool and wind on, you should feel some pull on the spool but be able to hold it still. Also worth checking: remove the back, cock the shutter and set a slow speed but don't fire it. Now select the fastest speed whilst watching the blinds; they shouldn't separate and leave a gap. Other than that, I'd try it out and see how things go. It's good practice on FSUs to cock the shutter before changing speeds, on a Kiev you won't do any damage by ignoring that but you can get an incorrect speed in some circumstances (notably between slow speeds, i.e. 1/50th and under).
 
I own a Kiev 2 and Kiev 4, they're fun cameras to use. Congratulations on your purchase!

+1 about checking the shutter speeds, I also would recommend checking the slow speeds, and watch the metal curtain to make sure it moves properly.

Let us know how your Kiev adventure turns out!
 
Hi,

I think you are worrying too much.

I blame these forums, people will post when things go wrong and not when things run smoothly.

So I would say, read the manual and put a film in it.

The only precaution I'd suggest is to use a lens hood because that will remind you to take the lens cap off...

Regards, David
 
Didn't know that. Do you mean that setting the shutter speed before tensioning the shutter won't do any harm on these?
 
When you have more FSU cameras it IS a good habit first cock the shutter and then change the speed dial. See also above explaination.
 
Indeed, I will keep this habit to avoid any accidents with my FSU cameras. It feels great though knowing that no harm would happen to my beloved Kievs and to my Contax.
 
Indeed, I will keep this habit to avoid any accidents with my FSU cameras. It feels great though knowing that no harm would happen to my beloved Kievs and to my Contax.

I forgot to mention: we have a sticky on this subject anyway, here...

http://rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=134577

The bottom line is it's always safe to set after cocking. If you have several models of FSU, it's a worthwhile habit to avoid remembering which can and can't cope.
 
The camera arrived yesterday. That's 6 days or 4 working days from Ukraine to Sweden, the shipping is really fast this time. :)

I got the impression from somewhere that the Kiev is a monstrously large camera but when it's in my hand I could tell it's not that large, only slightly taller than a FED-2. Indeed the protruding front plate makes it "fattier", but just like a Canon-7, one don't hold the fat part in hand, and it's good there is a place to rest the Contax Grip finger. I'd say I like the dimensions and overall "feeling" of the camera.

I did a quick examination and added some material to block potential light leaks here and there according to Kiev Survival Site. The ribbons still look good, and wow, for a Zorki user there's really lots of clockwork going on there...

The only suspicious part is the back-cover as shown in the picture down there. It's a bit deformed where it contacts to the bottom and it can't be pushed up completely when closing the camera. The cover goes in as much as, say, like how much a FED-2's back cover goes in its body, so it still tightly stick to the camera at every edge. The seller promised there won't be problem. I put two mini bike lights at the places where the film canister and the take-up spool are supposed to be lying, closed the camera back-cover and observed in a dark room. I couldn't see lights coming out from the camera so I just installed a roll of film and started shooting.

I've shot half a roll this noon and hopefully will get the results this weekend. Like the quiet shutter!

Summary:
+:
Camera body feels solid.
Is the covering genuine leather, if so it's so overkilling!
Can see edges of viewfinder with eye-glass on.
Long RF base.
Okay finder brightness and big bright RF patch.
No need to worry about touching spinning speed dial when shooting with gloves.
Reasonably burning-proof metal shutter.
Quiet shutter.
Not easy to have uneven exposure.
Normal lenses have click-stop.


-:
The focusing wheel cuts my finger.
Not pocket-able (ok I'm asking too much..)
 

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Looking very good. About the focus wheel: You can deblock the infinity lock and turn on the lens. Still the internal thread. For other lenses you always have to turn the lens.
 
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