Problems with Super Baldax

[FallisPhoto]

Was throughout the entire roll. I really wish I could check the camera right now for the leak, but it sorta has film in it at the moment...

Although, now that you point it out, I am nearly sure at the moment that it was due to handling the film because my other test roll did not suffer anywhere near as badly as the one I scanned and attached above.

Looks to me as if the light leak (if this is not due to mishandling the film) is either along the bottom edge of the film door or right up where the bellows attaches, along the bottom edge (far less likely). Medium format German folders usually don't use light seals, but is yours an exception? If it doesn't, is there a dent in the bottom, particularly along the bottom edge of the film door?

Edit: Another possibility is that the film door is sprung. Put a short straight-edge along it and see if you can see light under the middle of the straight-edge. Pay particular attention to the bottom edge of the film door.

 

[chippy]

Charles, i cant really see it being the bellows, the leak is coming from behind the mask-starting from the edge of the film. when the leak is from the bellows the the film/frame edges are unaffected .

there are lots of guesses where it could be coming from but the only way to know is to test (unless as FP says something is bent you should be able to see it). two ways to test are to remove the film using the changing bag, if you havnt taken any/many frames i would do that, it can be reused after. then place a small light inside the closed camera, cover the red window holes on the pressure plate (inside the camera) with tape and check in a very dark room...you wont see it if in a semi dark room

or you can test using the film you have in there, by testing each possible entry point by elimination. black tape each edge of the rear door up (including the hinge) and keep the red windows closed (tape them too) then discount the first frame, wind on and take a picture in sunlight and for good measure tip it upside down and around in all directions (hold it under a bright light and do the same for extra good measure) , then do the same each time on the next frame by removing one piece of tape from one edge (and replace the previous piece of tape) and the then do the red windows...write down notes for each frame what you did

we could all have sweeps (lottery) on which part the of the camera the leak is comming from. assuming Ploohblah had the red windows open while taking his pictures (winding on) i'll take that one as a guess, 🙄😀 something about the pattern and the fact it is all the way along the roll makes me think its cant be a handling error, well unless he was very sloppy with handling--no offense meant

 

[FallisPhoto]

Charles, i cant really see it being the bellows, the leak is coming from behind the mask-starting from the edge of the film. when the leak is from the bellows the the film/frame edges are unaffected .

Like I said, it is far less likely. The film rails would also have to be damaged -- but then this is a C6 camera. Still, my money is on the film door.

If I could get my hands on it, I'd bet I could figure out what was wrong within five minutes and that I could fix it and do a CLA the same day.

 

[chippy]

Like I said, it is far less likely. The film rails would also have to be damaged -- but then this is a C6 camera. Still, my money is on the film door.

If I could get my hands on it, I'd bet I could figure out what was wrong within five minutes and that I could fix it and do a CLA the same day.

no doubt! you and me both, i dont question your skills what so ever, its just fun in a quirky sort of way to guesstimate what going on 😉

 

[Poohblah]

Just a follow-up:
after blasting through a few more rolls, I have determined that the light leaks are due to mishandling of film. Whenever I have tried the previously mentioned paper backing trick to get the frames aligned, I have had the light leaks, but when I don't use extra backing paper and I use the red window instead, I don't get the leaks. I have been using the red window with a slightly higher rate of success lately because the winding mechanism has been misbehaving at a slower rate. However, when using sunny f/16, I have noticed that my negs are overexposed by as much as a stop, so I have a feeling that my shutter speeds need some looking at. I'll take care of that when I have some more money; it's not a debilitating problem.

Then negatives from this thing have been just GORGEOUS though! I love it despite its issues!!

 

[malkmata]

The Super Baldax that I ordered from Jurgen arrived last week.
After reading your post, I used a re-rolled film to practice loading and winding a few times first before I attempted to load a fresh roll. Just like you, I found the frame number on the red window at back is not matching with the auto frame counter near the winder. After a few tries I determined that I have to ratchet wind a little more to get the correct frame number on the red window.

I shot and developed the first roll. So far everything looks good. No light leaks.
I wrote a short review about the camera with a couple of pictures from the first roll of negative on my blog.

 

[FallisPhoto]

no doubt! you and me both, i dont question your skills what so ever, its just fun in a quirky sort of way to guesstimate what going on 😉

... AND releather it in toad skin.

 

[Poohblah]

The Super Baldax that I ordered from Jurgen arrived last week.
After reading your post, I used a re-rolled film to practice loading and winding a few times first before I attempted to load a fresh roll. Just like you, I found the frame number on the red window at back is not matching with the auto frame counter near the winder. After a few tries I determined that I have to ratchet wind a little more to get the correct frame number on the red window.

I shot and developed the first roll. So far everything looks good. No light leaks.
I wrote a short review about the camera with a couple of pictures from the first roll of negative on my blog.

I have found that the best way around things is to ALWAYS wind the advance knob as far counterclockwise as possible BEFORE turning to the right. This ensures that you will always have a full rotation clockwise - and will therefore disengage the double exposure prevention - between frames.