processing b&w @ home

[jano]

Hi,

Never processed own B&W, and thanks to this forum, I think I'd like to give it a shot. Besides, it'll give me something to do 🙂

I've been reading various tutorials on the internet after searching google, and honestly, I'm frustrated because non follow a "recipe" tutorial -- i.e. I'd like to see "buy these items" then "follow these steps" then "you can vary steps x, y, z and your results will vary as such" The closest I've found is this site .

What this site is missing is the "here's what you should buy." I'd like to see brand names. So hopefully, I can get a few tips? 🙂 In case it matters, I will not be making my own prints, just processing the traditional b&w for scanning later.

Oh, one more thing. Do I have this right:
1. put film into a reel
2. put developer into reel
3. put stop and/or fixer
4. dry
5. scan

?

Thanks!
Jano

edit: oh, ps: I don't have access to a light-tight room. Home is predominantley glass windows 🙁 I think I could make my closet light tight, but I barely fit in it.

 

[ChrisN]

Hi Jano

Thanks to the people around here, I'm now a veteran with, oh, about 15 rolls of B&W developing behind me!

It sounds like you will need a changing bag - a lightproof fabric bag with a set of zippers at one end and elastic-toed sleeves at the other end to put your arms in. You load the bag with your exposed film cassette, developing tank and reel, and scissors (if needed), then zip it up and work inside the bag. Make sure you have the top of the tank correctly into place before you open the bag to the light (I mean the funnel-shaped top, not the one you need to remove to put the developer in). Practice this with a roll of old wasted film.


I keep my developer, stop bath and fixer in 1-litre plastic bottles that I can immerse into a tub of water at 20-degrees (Centigrade) water, to bring the chemicals to the correct temperature. When the chemicals have stabilised at the right temperature, I transfer to my three measuring jugs of 1-litre size, so I can have my developer, stop bath and fixer all set to go. You need a thermometer - I use a cooking thermometer (cheaper than the one from the camera shop).

Developer is the first thing into the tank, for the required time for your particular film and developer. For me that's 9 minutes with agitation every minute (invert the tank 5 times, takes about 10-15 seconds, once every 60 seconds).

Then drain the developer back into its jug, and pour in the stop bath. The stop bath is very quick - only 15 seconds or so. Pour it back into its jug.

Finally the fixer, for about 3 minutes.

After that you need to wash the film for some time in fresh water, or I prefer to fill the tank, invert twenty times, then drain and replace the water, repeating 5 times.

Do a final rinse with fresh water with a few drops of "Photoflo" which is a wetting agent to help your film to dry without streaky marks.

Finally, remove the film from the reel, attach some clips and hang it up to dry.


Have fun!

 

[jrong]

Hi there,
Ilford has a better tutorial on their website, I think. The items you will need (and I am mentioning the basics):
1) Developing tank and reel
Paterson makes good ones in plastic, although some people here might have other brand preferences.... Paterson are cheap and good enough for me. Don't buy cheaper plastic reels because some of them are very hard to get your negatives onto.
2) Thermometer (glass)
3) Stopwatch
4) Measuring cylinders - 150ml, 300ml, 600ml are good sizes to get (or thereabouts)
5) Film clips (or clothes pegs if you're on a budget)
6) Scissors
7) Pair of pliers (to open the film canister, assuming you're doing 35mm film)
8) Storage bottles for fixer and stop bath

Chemicals you will need:
1) Developer (there are many types depending on the film you're using, personal tastes, etc.)
2) Stop bath (some people just use plain. clean water)
3) Fixer (e.g Ilford Rapid Fixer)
4) Wetting agent (e.g Kodak Photoflo, Ilford Ilfoflo etc)

The website you listed does NOT mention checking the temps for your chemicals... you MUST check the temp of your developer etc. before you pour it into the developing tank. This affects the time you must develop the film for. There are charts provided with your film, but a better place to look up developing times/temp is www.digitaltruth.com. It has information for most film and developer combinations and is an excellent place to start.

You will also need a light tight room to load your film into the tank. If you don't have one, then I'd recommend getting a changing bag. This is a light-tight bag in which you can put your film and insert your hands. You should be able to find this in any good camera store.

If you've never loaded film onto the reel in the dark before, I strongly recommend that you practise first with a dud roll of film. Load it in full daylight and get used to how the ratcheting works on the film spool before you take your precious film into the dark and try it for the first time! Being in the pitch dark for the first time can be very disconcerting unless you're already practised in what you're doing.

Once the film is in the developing tank and the lid is closed.. you can process in daylight. First, mix up all your chemicals that you need. Pour fixer and stop bath into the storage bottles as you can reuse them... the developer can be kept in the measuring cylinder after you've mixed up the right ratio and measured the temperature.

Then pour in the developer and start developing, i.e agitating, etc. Be sure to tap the tank after every agitation to get rid of bubbles ("air bells").

Pour out the developer at the end of the developing time.

Pour in the stop bath (or water) for about 30 secs or whatever recommended time.

Pour out stop bath back into the storage bottle.

Pour in the fixer for 2-5 mins (Ilford Rapid Fixer's time) and agitate continuously.

Pour fixer back into storage bottle.

Wash the film in the developing tank thoroughly. Then leave to stand in water for 15 mins.

Remove film from tank and spool, dip in wetting agent (mixed with water) and then hang the negs up with film clips and leave to dry. Do this preferably in a dust free room. Try not to use a squeegee to get rid of excess water on your film - your fingers will do - squeegees sometimes scratch negs and I tend to avoid them.

Then sleeve your negs and scan or whatever you do with them, when they're dry. 🙂

I usually keep my fixer for 2 weeks before chucking it out, whereas I only throw out my stop bath when it is exhausted... Ilford's Ilfostop changes colour from light yellow to purple when it is exhausted so get a stop bath with an indicator to tell you when to stop using it.

You can keep some developers, but many of them are one-shot developers which means you throw them away after using it the first time.

Good luck, and don't hesitate to ask questions if anything is unclear.

Jin

 

[formal]

I find the following document from Ilford to be very good.

http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/pdf/film hobbyist.pdf

David

 

[rover]

Scroll down here in the film section to the document named Processing Your First Roll of Film.

http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/bw.html

I found this very helpful. Additionally you will find Time/Temp charts and the specifics for Ilford films and chemicals there.

 

[Toby]

Two important tips
Practice loading film on to the reel lots of times before doing it for real -remember sweaty hands will cause the film to stick so confidence helps!
Soak the film in plain water for one minute before you put the developer in this lets the emulsion swell before development starts and helps stop any uneven development

 

[jano]

Wow, thank you everyone. I will take the time to study all the steps.

Some comments:
- Rover, I had previously visited that link on Ilford's website (in fact I put the link into my original post, but before hitting "submit", removed it to make the post shorter), and had trouble understanding or even finding anything there that taught me how to develop a roll of film -- Formal.. thanks for the pdf link, I finally found it there on Ilford's site. I'm sorta blind 😱

- jin, thank you!! Checking temperature is easy.. but.. how do you achieve temp, and then maintain temp? Water bath in sink/tub that has running water?

- Chris.. do you start the 60 seconds after you agitate, so it's "10-15 seconds of agitation" then "60 seconds pause" then "10-15 seconds agitation" then "60 seconds pause" etc or more like a "the 60 seconds includes 10-15 second of agitation"?

- Toby - before developer, you soak the film? won't the water start any chemical reactions (assuming "clean" water can be tap water, but some tap water contains various chemicals..?)

Thanks so much, I'm looking forward to this! I have a Calumet and Samy's relatively close to where I work, and since I gotta go in to work tomorrow, I may stop by there to pick up my first set or equipment and chemicals. How much should I expect to spend? And then after I get started, is there any particular place best suited to buying chemicals? (e.g. b&h?)

Jano

 

[phototone]

The hardest thing about developing b/w film yourself is learning how to load the film onto the developing reels. It is a skill that you have to teach yourself. Like riding a bicycle, once you learn how, you will never forget. There are two basic film reel types. Plastic and Stainless Steel. Each type requires a different method in loading the exposed, unprocessed film onto them. Most professionals prefer the stainless steel reel, as it can be loaded quickly and even if slightly moist, will still load. You start at the center and work your way to the outside of the reel as you wind the film on. The plastic type of reel requires that you start at the outside, start the film and ratchet the two flanges on the reel back and forth and this inches the film on. This type of reel has to be as dry as a desert to work, otherwise the film will bind.

While, with both types of reel, you "CAN" load the film in s changing bag, for beginners, you really need to have a dark room and have room to flail about. A closet at night would be quite workable. Once you become fairly comfortable with film loading, then you can more readily do this in the confines of a changing bag. Once the film is on whatever type of reel you decide to purchase, it is put into a light tight developing tank which you pour in, and pour out the chemistry through a light tight hole on the top that has a cap that is put on between pours so that you can invert the tank for agitation. You can do the whole developing process in room light.

 

[markinlondon]

Soak the film in plain water for one minute before you put the developer in this lets the emulsion swell before development starts and helps stop any uneven development

Toby,
if it works for you, that's great, but Ilford (for one) specifically warn AGAINST presoaking. The only modern film I've seen where the manufacturer recommends a presoak is Maco Cube 400. There may be others I haven't come across. I assume that Ilford are including the wetting time in the developing time.

Jano,

temperature control is not so bad, once tempered developer is in a plastic tank (I use a Paterson) it won't heat up or cool down too much unless the ambient temperature is wildly different. Check the temp on emptying the tank, I usually find it to be no more than a degree out from the starting temperature. Stainless tanks may be a different proposition, of course.

Last tip - get more reels if using plastic, they're a pig to load when wet and having dry spares around is handy if developing a mixed batch of films.

Good luck,

Mark

 

[phototone]

Wow, thank you everyone. I will take the time to study all the steps.

Some comments:

- jin, thank you!! Checking temperature is easy.. but.. how do you achieve temp, and then maintain temp? Water bath in sink/tub that has running water?

- Chris.. do you start the 60 seconds after you agitate, so it's "10-15 seconds of agitation" then "60 seconds pause" then "10-15 seconds agitation" then "60 seconds pause" etc or more like a "the 60 seconds includes 10-15 second of agitation"?

- Toby - before developer, you soak the film? won't the water start any chemical reactions (assuming "clean" water can be tap water, but some tap water contains various chemicals..?)



Jano

With b/w film, you process so close to average room temperature that it is considered satisfactory to check and adjust the temperature of the developer just before developing, adjust your developing time to match and you will be fine. No need to have a water bath, as most b/w film developers are in the 10 minute range and this is not long enough for dramatic temperature shifts, if your room temperature is comfortable. The stop bath (if you use it) and fixer temperature can be a few degrees apart from the developer temperature and still be OK, as long as they are under 85 f .

Soaking the film. While I have never found it necessary to soak roll film prior to developing, it does no harm, and will not start a chemical reaction. Just be sure your pre-soak water is the same temperature as the developer. Pre-soaking is a personal preference, and you do not need to pre-soak to get excellent roll film negatives. Now for tray developing of sheet film negatives, where you put several sheets into the tray and develop with shuffle style agitation, then a water pre-soak is necessary to keep the sheets of film from sticking together when they are put into the developer tray for the first time.

Agitation: Most texts advise to agitate b/w film for the first 30 seconds, then for five seconds every 30 seconds. This will give results that are satisfactory with the manufacturers developer times and temperatures. This is for developing roll films in small hand held tanks. After you achieve good results with the manufacturers recommendations, then you may want to experiment with your own variations.

I realize that I am not the people you addressed your comments to, but I have over 40 years of experience in developing all types of film stocks, color neg, color transpareny and black and white.

 

[jano]

Thank you Mark and Phototone. Doesn't matter who responds, all good.

I finished reading the ilford guide, and here's my last question, kind of stupid: step 5 has you remove the cap off the film cassette/canister. My camera has autorewind with a setting so just a short stub of film sticks out when done.

Will I still need to remove the cap, or can the film be simply pulled out of the canister now? Err... wonder if this makes sense.

 

[phototone]

Thank you Mark and Phototone. Doesn't matter who responds, all good.

I finished reading the ilford guide, and here's my last question, kind of stupid: step 5 has you remove the cap off the film cassette/canister. My camera has autorewind with a setting so just a short stub of film sticks out when done.

Will I still need to remove the cap, or can the film be simply pulled out of the canister now? Err... wonder if this makes sense.

Yes, in the dark, the film can be pulled out of the canister through the light-trap, and then you can snip the end that is still attached to the film cannister reel with scissors.
This is the way it is done in all "one hour" labs. Although the machine automatically pulls the film through and automatically cuts the film at the cannister.

Some people feel that by pulling the film out again through the felt light trap that you are running the risk of scratching the film.

 

[f/stopblues]

Everthing has pretty much been covered here, but just want to throw in a couple extras:

If you go with the stainless reels, make sure you get the ones with the little teeth that hook into the film sprockets, not the one with wire clip in the center. They're much easier to work with and especially easier to learn with.

I suppose i don't see anything wrong with pulling it out of the canister by the leader.. anyone else have thoughts on it? It'll at least keep the film from flopping all over the place when you take it out of the canister. Otherwise, removing the cap is easy with the aid of a bottle opener. The whole inside slides right out of the bottom.

It may seem obvious, but fumbling with getting the film on the reel the first few times, your instinct is going to be to grab right in the middle of the film. Keep your fingers off the emulsion and backing! Fingerprints are the devil! Course, the leader and very end of the film aren't critical.

Also, where to you plan to dry your film? You want to have some place to suspend it that's not going to collect all kinds of dust. A lot of people hang it in the bathroom because the constant steaming of the room pulls the dust out of the air. Some even steam it before they get ready to hang it in there, but I haven't had any problems with the former. You'll just need something up top to clip it up, and a weight that's just enough to keep it from curling to attach to the bottom. Clothes pins work just fine.

My last step before hanging is always to do a quick dip or a squirt with a wetting agent such as PhotoFlo (sp?). An mL or so in 400mL of water is more than enough. It prevents the dreaded dried water marks on your film.

That's about all I can think of!

Good luck!
Chris

 

[T_om]

Jano,

This is the technique I recommend to first timer B&W processors. Please note there are ALWAYS different ways to do things and different people have different ideas on accomplishing the same thing.

Here is some background on the technique I recommend and the reasons: First, VERY simple equipment requirements. No thermometer, no messing about bringing developer up or down to certain temperatures, no stopwatch needed, yet exceptionally consistent results. If you follow this path, you will know if you screw up it is with yourself and your camera, not your developing technique.

Here it is:

1. Keep out the light: Get a changing bag. There is no need at all to worry with making a closet or any other room light tight.

2. Equipment: Get a reasonably sized tank. My recommendations would be for a 4 roll (35mm) stainless steel tank. Nikkor-Honeywell and Kindermann are two top quality examples. I *personally* hate plastic tanks, but this is personal preference. If you have plastic, use it.

3. Chemicals: Use Diafine as your developer. Very long life, no critical time or temperature requirements and very consistent results. Use any fixer you like , although I do not personally like the hardening fixers.

That's it. Simple. Only three steps. Totally repeatable and consistent results with no fuss at all. After you master the mechanics of loading your reels and tanks, pouring and using the developer and fixer, THEN decide if you need more flexibility (and complexity) in your choice of chemicals.

The above method is absolutely foolproof and has worked for scores of people I have introduced to developing over the years.

Tom

 

[f/stopblues]

Tom, why the large tank? Wouldn't that just call for more chemistry?

 

[GeneW]

RFF member Bill Mattocks wrote a great webpage on this very subject:

http://www.growlery.com/photography/process_b_and_w/

Gene

 

[T_om]

Tom, why the large tank? Wouldn't that just call for more chemistry?

No. If only one reel is used, only enough chemistry to cover that reel is necessary. They do not have to be filled to the top. A single reel tank is the invention of the devil. Useless. Worse than useless, it is discouraging if you come back from a shoot with one or two dozen rolls to be developed. My largest tanks hold 8 reels. Truthfully though, I have not had to use those 8 reeler's in quite a while as I also have 3 or 4 four-reel tanks around. I have found the 4-reel size to be almost ideal for the amateur. It will soup 4 rolls of 35mm and two of 120.

Besides, using Diafine you will be pouring from a gallon jug and so you can use as much as you like. It is re-usable so you just fill the developing tank, wait the necessary 3 minutes and pour the developer right back into the same jug. Diafine is a 2-part developer, so you will do that process twice... once for solution "A" and once for "B". The developer lasts for literally years. Fix for a few minutes and you are done.

Tom

 

[Toby]

Toby,
if it works for you, that's great, but Ilford (for one) specifically warn AGAINST presoaking. The only modern film I've seen where the manufacturer recommends a presoak is Maco Cube 400. There may be others I haven't come across. I assume that Ilford are including the wetting time in the developing time.

This was something I was taught in college in '95 and all of us did. In one year we must of collectively developed 1000's of rolls of film without problems. It may be that only excessive soaking is the problem like people who leave film washing overnight - the emulsion can lift off the film. Having said that I never pre soaked negs before college and never had any problems. What I have noticed is Ilford film has an anti-halation dye that comes out in the pre soak purple tap water ahoy! I've found that without removing this dye sometimes I've been left wth purple negatives. This must effect contrast in a multi contrast head. Truth be told I'm mainly a tri-x user these days so will bow to Ilford afficionados

also true that tap water contains chemicals but then can anyone really afford to wash negs in evian?

 

[f/stopblues]

Ilford specifically advises against presoaking, as it leads to uneven developement. The purple tint that came out is the wetting agent used on the film to provide an even soak in the developer and rinsing it off can potentially lead to problems, although apparently not common. The purple tint you saw on your negatives was more likely due to under-fixing I'd guess. In any case, presoaking may not cause any problems, but I don't see a good reason to do it, namely with Ilford films. I haven't seen any actual manufacturer recommendations for a presoak with most modern films.

Chris

 

[Nick R.]

Jano, I agree with Tom. If this is your first time developing, use diafine. It's basically foolproof. Follow the instructions on the box and do not presoak. After you get use to diafine, you can experiment with other developers. I'd recommend a plastic tank for starters but I'm sure others will disagree.