Processing Problem, Camera Issue or User Error?

wakarimasen

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Hello folks,
I have recently used a roll of TMax100 in my Zorki 4K, in combination with a Jupiter 8 and Jupiter 12. This is the first time I have used this camera and lens combination, so I checked the rangefinder focussing prior to use.

At the same time I decided to experiment with 'meter-less' use, employing the exposure calculater from here:
http://squit.co.uk/photo/exposurecalc.html

Prior to using this exposure calculator in anger, I have been guessing exposures and checking with my Weston Master Meter, and am reasonably confident of being within one stop.

After finishing the film, I got it developed and printed whilst on holiday - because I was eager to see the results. To say that they were disappointing would be an understatement. All of the prints lack contrast and sharpness - attached is an example, scanned on my Scan Dual II without adjustment. I also noticed that the negatives all display a magenta tinge, which another search here seemed to suggest a processing problem.

Any guesses as to the cause or should I go ahead and try again with XP2 (my most used film so far) to check again?

Best regards,

RoyM
 

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Lack of sharpness can't be a processing fault, so it's a camera or lens or camera/lens problem, or user error. If it happened with both lenses it is probably a camera problem, but with Soviet quality control, don't bet on it. EDIT: Unless, of course, the printer was out of focus. Examine the negs with a loupe (the camera lens will do) to see if they're sharp.

Lack of contrast is usually a matter of too-short processing.

A magenta or pink tinge is a question of too-short fixing or too-short washing. 'New technology' films need to be fixed for longer than traditional emulsions, not to fix the image but to get rid of sensitizing dyes (longer washing wlll do it too, as will simple exposure to light.

Have you tried putting a bit of fine ground glass in the film plane and seeing if the image is sharp at the focused distance?

I don't want to be funny, but you're using elderly equipment which was known for appalling quality control when new and which may have been subject to amateur repair since. A 'blueprinted' Zorkii or Soviet lens can be very good: how much confidence have you in the closeness of your gear to the manufacturers' specifications?

Personally I'd stick with XP2, too.

Cheers,

Roger
 
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