Purple Tri-X. Should I re-fix?

[Pete B]

Post development, my TriX is purple. It's been a while since I developed negs. Should I re fix, or will it fade with time?
Pete

 

[Benjamin Marks]

I would re-fix. Film doesn't hold on to fixer the same way that fiber papers do so it shouldn't take too long. Refixing and rewashing is annoying, but it should help wash out whatever anti-halation dyes are in the base.

 

[notraces]

I wouldn't bother --- it won't make a difference when scanning -- and it won't make a difference when printing...

 

[aizan]

refix. you don't want it turning yellow in a couple years.

 

[Colin Corneau]

But it will make a difference in the long-term stability of the negative.

Just wash, re-fix and final wash again. It's a minor amount of time to learn a good lesson in film development.

Good habits entrenched over the long term = successful craftsmanship.

 

[Pete B]

Thanks guys. I refixed for peace of mind.
Pete

 

[Ronald M]

Yes and use FRESH Rapid fix which will remove the purple.

Plain old thyo fixer will no longer do the job.

 

[Colin Corneau]

On a related note - TMax films require longer fixing times. I've noticed about 10 minutes, or twice what regular films are. If you don't you get that purple hue that you mentioned.

 

[De_Corday]

Quick aside question... When people talk about long-term stability, what's that mean? how does the neg degrade if not fixed properly?

Also, I've heard negs degrade if not washed enough post-fix? How much is enough?

 

[02Pilot]

Thanks guys. I refixed for peace of mind.
Pete

And did refixing remove the purple cast? I ask because I've seen this with my Caffenol-developed Tri-X as well, and I'm curious if I should simply extend fixing time or if something else is happening.

 

[jordanstarr]

I have some negatives from 10+ years ago that were not properly fixed and they won't scan or print well as they "shift". So, yes. Fix well and clear it up as much as possible and wash well. Like Colin said.

 

[De_Corday]

let me rephrase/threadjack--it's the washing I'm worried about... I've only been developing for about 6 months... I've been using Kodak powdered fixer, and washing for 10 minutes or so. Do I need to go back and re-wash my past 6 months of work?
😱😱😱

 

[Pete B]

And did refixing remove the purple cast? I ask because I've seen this with my Caffenol-developed Tri-X as well, and I'm curious if I should simply extend fixing time or if something else is happening.

I think it made it less noticeable, and now that they've dried, there is no hint of purple.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2311736&postcount=46

Pete

 

[marcr1230]

I thought purple was the dye from the anti-halation layer , removed with vigorous washing
Why is inadequate fixing blamed ?

 

[Pete B]

I think you could be right.
Pete

 

[marcr1230]

Here's the method I use for washing:
http://www.ilfordphoto.com/photocommunity/forums/theforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6877

 

[JPSuisse]

I find this thread very strange... because I have developed quite a few rolls of Tri-X with DD-X and I have never had anything purple wash out. With other film types, yes, but with Tri-X never...

 

[ChrisPlatt]

Ah, the old Tri-X purple negs problem... 😉

Chris

 

[Fotohuis]

I find this thread very strange... because I have developed quite a few rolls of Tri-X with DD-X and I have never had anything purple wash out. With other film types, yes, but with Tri-X never...

The result depends a bit of the type developer. Tri-X can be a bit Purple due to the dyes used.
With an extended wash it will be gone. Also under UV light it will go away.

If a film is underfixed it will have a milky look when you look at the film after the wash. Then it is important to refix with fresh fixer immediate and then do the regular steps of wash and wetting agent again.