Pushing Tri-X..in which developer ?

rogue_designer said:
HC-110 at 1:100 - semi-stand development to control contrast and grain a bit.

so, roughly 50 minutes for 1600, agitate 3 inversions every 5 minutes - ish.

If I'm worried about shadow detail, I meter for 800-1250, but process for 1600. The results are very nice. This is my standard walk around combo (at 800 or so, with a yellow filter).

Thanks a lot, that sounds something worth to start with....
1:100 - is that for US HC-110, right ? (there are two different versions of HC-110 stock solutions - as US one and the less concentrated - European).
Dill. B for US is 1:31, European: 1:9, i.e. European syrop is 3.2 times less concentrated then US one.
So if you meant 1:100 for US version of HC-110 syrop - that makes roughly 1:31 for European one.
 
Don't use Rodinal. It's a speed-losing developer, not a speed increase one. The best speed-increase developer I have used is Ilford Microphen. I would use that if you are going to push to 1600. Other choices would include Kodak T-Max or Acufine, at least up to around 1000 or 1250.

Pushing Tri-X to only 800 is easy. You can do it with D-76. For best results, use it straight, not 1:1. HC-110 is acceptable.

I didn't include Diafine as I have not used it, and only wanted to comment on the ones I have tried.

Success in pushing depends not only on the film/developer, but also on the contrast in the scene. Too much contrast, like a night time street scene with brightly lit areas and dark shadows, tends to lead to bulletproof dense areas in the highlights, and blank film in the shadows--with an overall soot and chalk look. Flat scenes push very well, with improved contrast; though the abundance of middle gray areas tend to show the grain.
 
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