Q about Fix times...

[DNG]

I normally used 4min with 30s agitation.
Does increasing it 8min do any damage to the emulsion?

I use a daylight tank, but don't want to risk checking the film midway to see if the film is cleared....

 

[bolohead]

I fix for 1.5 times the time it takes the film to clear using HP5+ and Ilfofix. My film clears in 5 minutes so my fix time ends up being 7.5 minutes. You can do a clip test to check times and be safe.

 

[wlewisiii]

I fix for 10 minutes, no agitation, just a quick rap to knock any bubbles loose.

 

[JohnTF]

What kind of fix are you using?

Regardless, if you want to use that tongue of film you cut off, toss it in some fix and see how long it takes to clear, your answer is 2x that and you should be good to go.

I believe the Ammonium Thiosulfate fixes are the liquid ones and are pretty fast.

I prefer to use a hardener, and I believe most of the liquid fixes do not have one, so you might want to think about that. Folks may not want to use hardener with fiber papers, and may wish to leave it out.

Chemistry is still cheap enough to not have to push its life. Once the liquid fixes throw a sediment from siting around too long, toss them even if not used.

I pull the top off the tank 30 seconds after putting the fix in, never had a problem and it allows me to see if it is clearing evenly and quickly. If it is clearing slowly, I would put some fresher fix -- you can fix twice, or three times, no problem, I normally use two baths for paper.

Regards, John

 

[DNG]

What kind of fix are you using?

Regardless, if you want to use that tongue of film you cut off, toss it in some fix and see how long it takes to clear, your answer is 2x that and you should be good to go.

I believe the Ammonium Thiosulfate fixes are the liquid ones and are pretty fast.

I prefer to use a hardener, and I believe most of the liquid fixes do not have one, so you might want to think about that. Folks may not want to use hardener with fiber papers, and may wish to leave it out.

Chemistry is still cheap enough to not have to push its life. Once the liquid fixes throw a sediment from siting around too long, toss them even if not used.

I pull the top off the tank 30 seconds after putting the fix in, never had a problem and it allows me to see if it is clearing evenly and quickly. If it is clearing slowly, I would put some fresher fix -- you can fix twice, or three times, no problem, I normally use two baths for paper.

Regards, John

I use Kodafix 1:3
I rinse the film for 2 min after the Stop, and then fix...
I rinse for 8min in 23c water, (same as chem temps)

I'll have to "Keep" that leader next time and test it... :bang:
So, longer is fine...

I have found after 6 rolls of 36x (one at a time), is all I get, before I get fresh Fix. I use Hypo-Check before each Fix from the 3rd use on.

 

[jmcd]

You should be fixing for 2-3 times the amount of time it takes the film to clear. Agitation will clear the film faster.

As clear times approach double of a fresh fixer, a new batch of fixer is needed.

Different films take different times to clear—e.g., in Ilford Rapid fix, fresh, Foma takes about 12 seconds to clear, Ilford about 20, and Kodak aboout 45.

You should be able to fix properly 17 to 20 36-exp. (80 square inches) rolls per liter of fixer.

 

[jmcd]

If you use water for the stop bath use several changes so that you do not carry over developer to the fix—if you want to maximize the effectiveness of your fixer.

 

[DNG]

You should be fixing for 2-3 times the amount of time it takes the film to clear. Agitation will clear the film faster.

As clear times approach double of a fresh fixer, a new batch of fixer is needed.

Different films take different times to clear—e.g., in Ilford Rapid fix, fresh, Foma takes about 12 seconds to clear, Ilford about 20, and Kodak aboout 45.

You should be able to fix properly 17 to 20 36-exp. (80 square inches) rolls per liter of fixer.

I found the Leader I cut off...Did a test, and it took 1m20s to clear.. in fresh Kodafix. So 4min in good.
I was concerned that it may be too short.

I use IlfordStop as my stop with a 2m rinse before I Fix.

 

[jmcd]

DNG:
I found the Leader I cut off...Did a test, and it took 1m20s to clear.

To avoid any possible uncertainty about clear time, I place a dot of fixer near the end of the leader strip and let that clear. Then I dip the leader end into the fixer and start the clock. Comparing this against the cleared dot, it is readily apparent exactly when the film clears. This is probably more helpful with faster clearing films. (I learned this exact fixing routine from Ilford, when they had available a technical person who answered questions over the phone.)

I have found that the clear time remains very stable until the fixer approaches exhaustion—around roll 16 or 17. Then fixing time increases rapidly to double—in this case, you still want to fix for about 3 times clearing time, which might be 8 minutes in your case.

You would have to grossly over fix film to create any real damage. (Prints are another matter.)

 

[JohnTF]

I use Kodafix 1:3
I rinse the film for 2 min after the Stop, and then fix...
I rinse for 8min in 23c water, (same as chem temps)

I'll have to "Keep" that leader next time and test it... :bang:
So, longer is fine...

I have found after 6 rolls of 36x (one at a time), is all I get, before I get fresh Fix. I use Hypo-Check before each Fix from the 3rd use on.

I forgot I use hypo-check as well, just part of the "reflex" part of the process. I never use stop with film.

Things evolve as your darkroom equipment changes. I also processed film a few summers while I was in Prague, lots of chemistry available there.

I have almost always used one shot developers, and rinsed in distilled water before hanging.

I had forgotten that some films fix more quickly than others, I believe the thinner emulsions clear very quickly.


Regards, John