Quick question regarding Kodak films in Ilford rapid fix

[Cosmo17]

Hi,

Very quick question. I've been developing Tri-X in Ilford Rapid Fixer. This is my normal chemistry. Last trip I took the shop didn't have enough Tri-X so I bought some Tmax 400.

So I've made up 1.5 litre of fix, and I've been developing the Tri-X, and now I start developing the Tmax 400, and after I fix it, I pour the fix back into the bottle and it's turned bright yellow. I know that the fix isn't exhausted as the capacity for 1.5 litres of rapid fix is about 36 films and I've done about 15.

Is this yellow coloured fix okay to keep using? Does Tmax 400 usually colour the fix?

Thanks,

Oliver

 

[x-ray]

It's fine to use with both. What you're seeing is the antihalation dye that's come out of the film. I use Formulary TF4 and 5 and TMax turns it magenta. TMax takes more time in the fixer, clearing bath and wash than most other films in order to get that dye out. Fuji Neopan turns it as well. Different films will react different depending on the color of the dye. Just continue using it.

 

[Highway 61]

The Rapid Fixer seems to be famous for easily providing some insufficient fixing with films. The only time I used it (at a friend's house) my Tri-X rolls turned out to have been not fixed enough and I had to re-fix them several months later. Theorically the friend's fixer wasn't exhausted but the films strips clearly showed some evidence of not having been fixed properly after a while of storage.

T-Max requires the best and strongest fixer and some longer fixing time.

For decades I have been remaining faithful to the Tetenal Superfix Plus fixer. Works just perfect for all films and all papers.

 

[charjohncarter]

The Rapid Fixer seems to be famous for easily providing some insufficient fixing with films. The only time I used it (at a friend's house) my Tri-X rolls turned out to have been not fixed enough and I had to re-fix them several months later. Theorically the friend's fixer wasn't exhausted but the films strips clearly showed some evidence of not having been fixed properly.

T-Max requires the best and strongest fixer and some longer fixing time.

For decades I have been faithful to the Tetenal Superfix Plus fixer. Works just perfect for all films and all papers.

I found this to be true also. My Tmax 400 and 100 require more fixing time (than TriX) with Ilford, Kodak, and Arista fixers.

 

[Sarcophilus Harrisii]

It's fine to use with both. What you're seeing is the antihalation dye that's come out of the film. I use Formulary TF4 and 5 and TMax turns it magenta. TMax takes more time in the fixer, clearing bath and wash than most other films in order to get that dye out. Fuji Neopan turns it as well. Different films will react different depending on the color of the dye. Just continue using it.

This (highlighted) has been my experience also. I only use Ilford Fixer (Rapid or Hypam) and have done exclusively since I began developing black and white eight years or so ago. My first films are still looking good, but I do (A) keep track of how many films I have fixed with a batch so as to keep silver levels within limits, and (B) check the clearing time needed with a piece of whichever film type I am processing, and adjust the fixing time accordingly. Anyone who doesn't adhere to a manufacturer's recommendations may eventually have issues with inadequate fixing regardless of the brand.
Cheers,
Brett

 

[Cosmo17]

Perfect, thanks every one. I've only ever seen colouring of the chemicals when developing 120 film, never before with 35mm and this is my first time using Tmax films so I want to be sure. And after what you said I fixed for triple time to be sure and my negatives are completely clear.

Again, thanks,

Oliver

 

[sepiareverb]

The T grain type films need an additional bit of fixing. With the Sprint Fixer I use they need 4 minutes instead of 3. I find that Permawash or Kodak HCA is effective at removing the color cast.