R-D1 Focusing trouble

manojd

Established
Local time
7:35 AM
Joined
Aug 13, 2006
Messages
97
I have been using the R-D1 for almost 2 years now. But I have been having trouble focusing it in indoor shots. I have tried to put a polarized film inside the eye piece to see if it helps. There are many shots that I miss because of bad focus. Is this because I am usng larger apertures 1.5 - 2 in my indoor shots to make use of available light? The larger aperture gives me a much smaller DOF. Using a fill flash may solve the problem because I cam use a smaller aperture and the DOF will take care of the focus issue.

Does this group have any suggestions? How do you focus your camera and frame the picture?
 
What focal length lens are you having trouble with? Any fast lens wide open above 50mm is difficult to focus on the R-D1. I sometimes even have trouble focusing my 50mm f1.4 wide open on it.

/T
 
I sometimes have trouble focusing indoors in low contrast situations, but overall when I am not rushed I seem to have good success. No problem with anything up to a 50 so far, except the canon 50 1.2, and even that, sometimes.
It would not be allignment if only some shots are off. I did realize though, that shooting people indoors is tricky if they move, as it is harder to keep them in track than the stationary subjects.
 
I mostly use Nokton 40 indoors. I focus first on the face for people's photograph and then frame it. I wonder if that is causing any issues. I don't know of any other technique!
 
One trick is to focus on the face and then, instead of continually refocusing as the subject moves, you move closer and further to maintain about the same distance. That way you just concentrate on framing and waiting for the right moment. Of course, this doesn't work if the person is walking around the room, but if she's just swaying back and forth in normal conversation, e.g., you just sway with her to maintain focus.
 
Increase your f-stop to increase the depth of field. That's the easiest way to solve the problem. The R-D1 is good at ISO 1600 so there's lots of leeway to do that.

/T
 
I found it easier to focus on the edge of the person's face to get better contrast and then re-frame. Here is an example of my daughter with the 40 nokton , indoors at 1.4
 

Attachments

  • maria.jpg
    maria.jpg
    48 KB · Views: 0
Here is a shot taken RAW with no adjustments in PhotoRAW. Please tell me if you find this in focus:
 

Attachments

  • EPSN3371-1.jpg
    EPSN3371-1.jpg
    119.1 KB · Views: 0
it looks focused on the white letters on blue patch; I cant tell any better by the image size; do you remember where you focused?
 
I found it easier to focus on the edge of the person's face to get better contrast and then re-frame. Here is an example of my daughter with the 40 nokton , indoors at 1.4

You focused on the right eye. Note that the depth of field is so shallow that the left eye is already not sharp. You have to be careful when you say you "can't focus". Sometimes all you are doing is focusing on the wrong thing.

/T
 
I can focus my friend, I replied to this, am not the O.P. :)
I tend to focus on the most contrasty part of the face, then move my body back and forth to adjust. It works for the most part. In this photo, my daughter a) decided to move faster than I can, and b) focusing the 40 1.4 on something 4 feet away gives no leeway wide open.
I also found the 40 1.4 has a much tighter focusing wheel than, say the 28 1.9 which is much easier to focus faster.
 
I can focus my friend, I replied to this, am not the O.P. :)
I tend to focus on the most contrasty part of the face, then move my body back and forth to adjust. It works for the most part. In this photo, my daughter a) decided to move faster than I can, and b) focusing the 40 1.4 on something 4 feet away gives no leeway wide open.
I also found the 40 1.4 has a much tighter focusing wheel than, say the 28 1.9 which is much easier to focus faster.

My post was directed to the OP, not you, George.

/T
 
I found it easier to focus on the edge of the person's face to get better contrast and then re-frame. Here is an example of my daughter with the 40 nokton , indoors at 1.4

I sometmes do the same, but with shallow DOF you can be off if the eyes or whatever you wanted to be razor sharp are in a different plane than the edge of the face you've used. Still, I agree, and do the same...but the photog needs to be aware of the possibile issue...sometimes this is all you can do anyway so you go ahead...
 
I tend to focus on the ears or cheek because it gives a contrasty border. But with this lense at 1.4 or 2, I think I should try to focus a bit further on eyes or lips. What concerns me with my picture is that the eyes and hair are not in focus at all. For that I will have to go for smaller f stops and higher ISO or else use a flash. I am going to try my Xenagon at 2.8 and compare that with the Nokton and see if there is a difference or an actual focusing issue with the lens.
 
It looks soft overall to me, whether I look at the right eye, the ear, or the lettering on the blue patch. I wonder if the shutter speed was a bit too low for good sharpness?
 
I tend to focus on the ears or cheek because it gives a contrasty border. But with this lense at 1.4 or 2, I think I should try to focus a bit further on eyes or lips. What concerns me with my picture is that the eyes and hair are not in focus at all...
Not suprising if you focussed on the ear. Just focus on what you want to be sharp in your pic. The closest eye does it generally.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom