Ran out of Edwal 4 & 1 Hypo Eliminator...

[J J Kapsberger]

...and I have two rolls in the tank I'd like to develop before the weekend. Should I just wait till the photo store opens again or should I simply increase my rinse time? If I increase the rinse time, how long should I rinse at approximately 20C?

 

[charjohncarter]

Hypo clear is sea water so if you live near the ocean great, but Kodak recommends 20-30 minutes rinse without Hypo clear.

 

[J J Kapsberger]

So much time for film? I'm not printing.

 

[Al Kaplan]

Back in Olden Times it was 1/2 hour for film, 1 hour for SW paper, and 2 hours for DW paper, all in running water.

 

[J J Kapsberger]

Thanks, charjohncarter and Al.

 

[Trius]

Are you using a hardening fix? If so, then I guess hypo eliminator or longer wash is a good idea. I use a non-hardening fix, as hardener is not necessary with modern emulsions. So I don't use HE, and use the Ilford wash recommendations:

fill tank, invert 5 times, drain
fill tank, invert 10 times, drain
fill tank, invert 20 times, drain

Photoflo (if desired/necessary), hang & dry

 

[ZorkiKat]

Are you using a hardening fix? If so, then I guess hypo eliminator or longer wash is a good idea. I use a non-hardening fix, as hardener is not necessary with modern emulsions.

Photoflo (if desired/necessary), hang & dry

I beg to disagree. In the tropics, or in hot weather, hardener is still necessary. For instance, Fuji Neopan, Kodak TriX or Ilford Pan F are considered modern. But washing them in 'normal tap' (that's around 28...30C) here would lead to very soft emulsions which crackle or strip or scratch easily. The only way that these modern emulsions could be treated properly is to use hardening fixer or use a large chiller to control the temps. The latter isn't very feasible though.

Rinsing in running water for 10 minutes (or 5 changes of water at 5 minute intervals) works. I've lost no negatives yet from chemical deterioration using this method. And I have negatives which come from around 1984. Lower temps need longer wash times though.

Hypo clearing agent isn't necessary with film- the base doesn't absorb chemicals like fibre paper.

 

[J J Kapsberger]

I don't use a hardener. I use Ilford Rapid Fixer.

 

[Al Kaplan]

I don't risk using non-hardening fixer for film in Miami, FL either.

 

[bmattock]

Hardening or non-hardening, hypo clear is not needed, it only lets you save water and time during the rinse. If you don't want to rinse for 20 minutes, use hypo clear. Otherwise, rinse and ignore the hypo clear.

I do not use stop bath or hypo clear, ever. No need. Developer and fix, followed by a good long rinse. I adjust my development times - I don't like short development, where the stop is critical because every second late means a higher percentage of error. With a 10 minute or longer development time, a few seconds error pouring in the fix doesn't hurt a thing.

 

[Trius]

I was assuming 20C wash water, as stated in the OP.

 

[ZorkiKat]

I was assuming 20C wash water, as stated in the OP.

And I was responding to this one:

as hardener is not necessary with modern emulsions.

 

[kaiyen]

first off - there is no hypo in ilford rapid fix. some fixers - I think the kodak powder fixer had this - actually had "hypo" in it (Hypothalamate? something). Another chemical was needed to help get that out in order to make the negatives as archival as possible. This was known as hypo-clear, colloquially.

However, Ilford Rapid Fix does not actually have that, so all the hypo-clear wash does is _potentially_ reduce your wash times. But not using it doesn't mean you have to wash for like 30 minutes or something. I still use the Ilford wash method and stopped using hypo-clear 2+ years ago. Now, I don't have any 100 year old negatives to see if they're sufficiently archival but...bear in mind that the "hypo" part actually means something, and in the case of Ilford RF it does not apply.