Chrisrw
photomonkey
I started this hobby several years ago with a Bessa R2 and the 40/1.4 Nokton. I also have a Canonet GIIIQ17. Sharp, fast lens and A priority. Both very well built. The 35/2.5 Color Skopar is wonderful with the Bessa. Good luck and enjoy your search
Chris
Chris
rhl-oregon
Cameras Guitars Wonders
There's an ltm 35 Skopar on the bay for $260--rarely do they go lower. I sold mine to rfaspen here when I got a 35 C-Sonnar, but I miss it...
jseakoi
Member
I can't seem to get the two images to line up. Seems like when I shift the focus on the lens I barely get any movement. When I shift the aperature on the lens I get more movement but still not enough to get the images lined up. What an I doing wrong?
jseakoi
Member
Errrrr sorry. Was getting the focus and aperature ring confusedm Im used to the aperture ring being closest to the body.
But still can't get the two images to line up. I get movement but not enough to line up.
But still can't get the two images to line up. I get movement but not enough to line up.
jseakoi
Member
Ok...I figured it out. I was trying to focus on things too close. Wow, getting used to 50mm after a 17mm is tough! Lol
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
Miracle!So I got a Bessa R with a Jupiter 8 from a local camera store for $220! Condition looks good. Definitely used but everything looks good. Comes with a 60 day warranty so I'll be playing with it soon.
...
What's the name of the store, BTW?
jseakoi
Member
Austin Camera and Imaging in Austin, TX
jseakoi
Member
Hey all, I just developed my second roll of film with my Bessa R and I really really love the results! Beautiful pictures!
The only problem that I am running into is the difficulty of focusing with the white little oval finder in the viewfinder. It seems that depending on the lighting in the situation, it seems nearly impossible to see the second image. More times than not I'm having to focus on something close to the main subject just so I can actually "see" the second image and use it to focus. Is this a sign that my batteries are low? Or is this something that you just get better with in time? The internal light meter seems to be working fine so that's why I'm skeptical of low batteries.
Any tips?
The only problem that I am running into is the difficulty of focusing with the white little oval finder in the viewfinder. It seems that depending on the lighting in the situation, it seems nearly impossible to see the second image. More times than not I'm having to focus on something close to the main subject just so I can actually "see" the second image and use it to focus. Is this a sign that my batteries are low? Or is this something that you just get better with in time? The internal light meter seems to be working fine so that's why I'm skeptical of low batteries.
Any tips?
silkyfeet
Established
i went to buy to buy a bessa r3a today money in hand and that is what i discovered. when i tried the m2 and m6 the focus square was so much more contrasty even in low light. what u sad s the only reason i didnt get it as the deal was amazing.
tunalegs
Pretended Artist
The rangefinder has nothing to do with batteries, it is a completely optical mechanism. I don't know about the Bessa in particular, but in general it is going to be easier to focus on a high-contrast subject than a low-contrast one.
Austintatious
Well-known
I have done business with Matt as well, wonderful place with honest deals and service.Austin Camera and Imaging in Austin, TX
Lots of good used gear there, digital or film. They process film in house !
Charles
Solinar
Analog Preferred
.............
The only problem that I am running into is the difficulty of focusing with the white little oval finder in the viewfinder. It seems that depending on the lighting in the situation, it seems nearly impossible to see the second image.
Any tips?
Hmm, of my 35mm collection of RF cameras, the Bessa R has one of the brighter rangefinder patches. It helps to a well defined outline of an object to focus on, versus a continuous background like a wall.
Because I have mostly pre-1960 LTM lenses, I usually pre-focus without the RF when I get the camera out. It's a guess - but it's usually a close approximation - before I fine tune the focus with the RF. The older LTM lenses have a relatively long throw with regards to their focus adjustment.
Last but not least, your eye must be center over the viewfinder for the RF patch to be its brightest.
silkyfeet
Established
@solinar i c u have a m2 which i played around in the shop. dont you find the focus squares different on brightness? i noticed the overall viewfinder of the m2 was not as bright as the m3 and m6 but all the m focus squares was very contrasty and luminated very well. the bessa r3m which i went to purchase today was a very bright viewfinder but the focus square would at times disappear completely where this didn't happen in any of the m cameras. Gutted as i really wanted the camera.
Filzkoeter
stray animal
The brightness and contrast in the finder in older Leicas really depends on its condition. Mind that even the youngest M4 is now 40 years old... M3 and M2 even older.
I have a M2 from 1964... after cleaning the surfaces of the finder it's bright, clear and contrasty enough (better then the last M9 I looked through
).
The patch never flared out on me and never disappears, it only looses contrast slightly depending if your eye is centered or not.
The finders of the older Leicas are slightly tinted blue (which makes them appear slightly darker) with the framelines and patches tinted yellow. It helps with contrast as both are complementary colors.
But I also have never looked through a Bessa, I can't compare the finders.
I have a M2 from 1964... after cleaning the surfaces of the finder it's bright, clear and contrasty enough (better then the last M9 I looked through
The patch never flared out on me and never disappears, it only looses contrast slightly depending if your eye is centered or not.
The finders of the older Leicas are slightly tinted blue (which makes them appear slightly darker) with the framelines and patches tinted yellow. It helps with contrast as both are complementary colors.
But I also have never looked through a Bessa, I can't compare the finders.
silkyfeet
Established
filzkoeter that is what i noticed the blue tint in the m2. i rang aperture before i went to look at the bessa and he advised if the focus square is faint then i could need to clean it out or align it. once you open a camera it 100gbp so your best to do a CLA which is 150gbp.
ill just keep seaching for a black m6 classic or sliver m2. the black m2 is like gold dust.
ill just keep seaching for a black m6 classic or sliver m2. the black m2 is like gold dust.
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