RAW format for editing

[slava]

Hello there!

I just got yesterday Epson perfection v500 photo. After scanning some negs and velvia I noticed that
scans of the really sharp images doesn't look as sharp as originals. and I'm not so happy with it.
I want to get as RAW image as possible for editing. I used Epson scan...

Just want to know that what softwere do you use for scanning and in what format do you scan for RAW?

-Slava

ps. I use MAC and edit my photos in lightroom

 

[Mcary]

Hello there!

I just got yesterday Epson perfection v500 photo. After scanning some negs and velvia I noticed that
scans of the really sharp images doesn't look as sharp as originals. and I'm not so happy with it.
I want to get as RAW image as possible for editing. I used Epson scan...

Just want to know that what softwere do you use for scanning and in what format do you scan for RAW?

-Slava

ps. I use MAC and edit my photos in lightroom

What resolution are you scanning at? Reason I ask is 2400PPI is really about as high you should go when scanning 35mm or MF using this type/level of scanner anything above that will result in soft images and be a waste of memory JMO
I use VueScan with my V600 and scan to 16bit TIFFS which I process in LR 4.0

 

[Ranchu]

I scan at 4800 and downsize to 2400 or so. I like the look better. I set sharpening on low. Epson scan is not what's making the scans less sharp, it's the fact that a flatbed scanner has limits. Epson scan and vue scan are raw convertors.

 

[rxmd]

How do you scan the negatives, do you place them directly on the glass or do you use a film holder?

Are these 35mm or medium format scans?

 

[slava]

Thank you all for help.

These are 35mm scans that I place in the film holder and scan in 2400PPI. I wil try TIFF's and 4800PPI today and tell you does it look better or gives more for editing.

-Slava

 

[kuzano]

Are you using the flimsy and OOF OEM film holders

Are you using the flimsy and OOF OEM film holders

These are not that great for 35mm. You are probably not scanning at an optimal focus height. That's my experience.

You can adjust focus height with shims, but only up. Or you can shim up from the glass deck.

I suggest you need to accomplish two things... a way to flatten the curvature of the neg.. 35 often has a fairly curved set to it, and a way to adjust height.

I don't really shoot 35mm, so I just passed on the process.

however, I understand that the scan holders from www.betterscanning.com offer both ANR glass covers to flatten the slide, and adjustment for height.

I don't use anything to post process the image at the scan level, and I DON'T use Ice. I only use the Epson software.

I understand that some people "profess" to get better results with products like VueScan, and others. My experience is that any image process done at the scan level seriously reduces the work I can accomplish in regular Post Processing. In particular sharpening at the scan level, really reduces any further sharpening I can do in Post Processing software.

In addition, I follow the school of thinking that reserves sharpening as the last step in all post processing... certainly not the first.

My goal is a flat, focused negative at 2400. The rest, I have more latitude in any other post processing software.

But start at your worst enemy in the process. The film holders that come with the scanners.

 

[venchka]

We would need screen shots of how you adjust the Epson Scan software to make any useful suggestions.
As others have said: Use Professional mode. 2400 ppi. 100% output-that means that your window placed around your negative equals the dimensions of your output file. Approximately 24mm x 36mm. Sharpening OFF. 16 bit greyscale for B&W. Save as TIFF file. TIFF = RAW but the files are larger.
I will post a link tomorrow for more information.

Wayne

 

[slava]

Thank you all.!

Now my files are much better in Tiff everything off, B&W in 16bit Greyscale and Colour in 48bit. They take about 15mb space but that is normal for raw file and now I can edit them much better.

-Slava