re-covering an M4 & IIIf

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Hi - I have an M4 and a IIIf RD ST. The vulcanite on each has come away in places or split a little. I'd like to get them re-covered.
There seems to be some difficulty with postage in some areas of the world because of Covid restrictions.
For example, Aki-Ashai say on their site that Australia Post do not accept registered air-mail from Japan, and that the alternative is a long wait. I have checked the Aust. Post site but cannot see anything about that. I emailed Aki-Ashai last week for an update on the current situation, but there has been no response.
I'm aware of Camera Leather. Are there any other alternatives? Can anyone offer any advice generally? I am not blessed with fine motor skills. Can a 72 year old who can still hold a glass of wine reasonably steady do this?
thanks
Dan
 
I re-covered IIf and M4-2.
Have to hold body tight and use chisel.

For shipping, find where do they ship, then find some one who will ship from where to you.
Also, long wait is not really big deal. Cameras works even with falling vulcanite.
 
The self-adhesive stuff from Aki-Asahi is great, it certainly allows for lifting-up and re-applying when putting it on the body, to correct a mistake or two.

Hugo Studio is another source to get camera skins from. Ordered one recently but haven't received it yet. Can't comment on the quality.



I have no experience with re-skinning an M4, but I've had to do it to a beater IIIf RD (not the ST). It did involve taking the body shell off and using a heat source (paint stripper) to get the adhesive under the vulcanite to let go. Then I wiped it down with something to dissolve the residue.
Older types did not seem to have adhesive under the vulcanite and it breaks away quite easily.
 
If you feel you have to mention motor skills, I think you are better off having a camera tech do the work. A EU tech charged me €75 including cover for a IIIf RDST. I could do it myself but know that sometimes it takes a bit of effort to get all the vulcanite off.
From experience, I prefer Aki-Asahi of the two mentioned.
 
It's pretty easy. hugostudio.com, Hugo has the closest match to original vulcanite. Have ordered many times from him. I usually just warm up the body in an oven (anticipating some resistance to this comment) for 3-4 minutes at about 170 F, vulcanite will pretty much just fall off after that.
 
To the OP regarding shipping I'd just wait awhile for things to settle and while you are waiting glue the loose bits of vulcanite back down. By the time shipping settles you will have forgotten the desire to recover cameras, there will be other priorities.

The important question is whether or not you can hold the wine glass straight long enough to get the stuff down your throat?
 
Dan Daniel said:
Chipping off the vulcanite from an M3, I had some of the dried glue powder and small chips find their way into the rangefinder system. Is there a way to prevent this?
Click to expand...

Kind of abnormal to me. Maybe old junk under top plate was shaken off during procedure.
Taking top plate off to blow it out doesn't take long and circular wrench kit should be still available on ebay for god price.
 
Dralowid said:
To the OP regarding shipping I'd just wait awhile for things to settle and while you are waiting glue the loose bits of vulcanite back down. By the time shipping settles you will have forgotten the desire to recover cameras, there will be other priorities.
Click to expand...

Have shipped many items Down Under via post from the US, shouldn't be much of a problem for hugostudio.
 
CameraLeather did a fine job the 2 times I used them, but both times I had to repeatedly inquirer about shipping etc. (aka. It took forever!!!!)
I have bought 4 times from Aki-Asahi and their coverings just arrive as soon as the post get their act together.
 
I'm about the OP's age and don't have the best dexterity. Getting the old vulcanite & glue off is the hardest post. I've done a lot of cameras over the years and got the instructions on how to do it a long time ago. Go to a hobby shop and get some square sticks of hard wood. Get a couple that measure 1/8" and 1/4" square. Whittle one end down to make a wedge. Use the wooden wedge to get as much vulcanite and glue off as possible. Then use that gooey type paint remover and using a small brush cover a small spot of the glue, let it soften, scrape it off, repeat. Once you get the body completely clean it's time to put the new skin on. Most coverings come with the glue attached. Spray the body with hand sanitizer before putting the covering on. This allow you to slide the new skin around to get it perfectly aligned. The hand sanitizer (mostly alcohol) evaporates in a few minutes leaving the skin perfectly attached. Very, very messy (and smelly). Use rubber gloves and do it in a well ventilated are (outside is best). I sit in a chair with an old towel in my lap and rest the camera on the towel so I don't drop it.


I've done maybe half a dozen Leica's this way and I never disassemble anything. While the paint remover is strong I've never had it hurt the chrome or black chrome finish (I wouldn't try it on black paint). The camera stays sealed so it's impossible to get any gook inside the camera itself (leave the base plate on).
 
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