Recommend film for shooting at around 800 speed and developing in HC-110

froyd

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Getting to the end of my pile of XP2 and will soon switch back to traditional 35mm BW films developed in HC-100.

I'm looking for something I can use indoor at 800 speed, so I immediately thought of the various 400 speed films pushed one stop since Neopan is not an option anymore. Overall, I'd prefer small grain as possible and as much shadow detail as I can get. Of course, I would also try to tailor my development times and agitation to achieve these goals.

I'm open to suggestions, even if they result in different renderings (e.g. high-contrast and grainy) but would appreciate your descriptions of what I can expect in terms of rendering.
 
If you want small grain, your best bet is probably Tmax 400 - try dilution B and if not happy, perhaps dilution H with less frequent agitation. If you develop in a different developer, like Tmax, Xtol or DD-X, EI 800 is not such a big push.
 
I shoot Tmax 400 @ 400 in HC110 H.. It does well. Though I can't find any photos now in any of my galleries... didn't tag HC110 apparently :bang:
Haven't tried at 800, should do well though.
 
Maybe I'm completely stupid, but wouldn't be Ilford Delta 3200 be the most logical choice? As I understand it, it really is a 1000 iso film in HC110.
 
If you go by the Kodak Technical Data sheet (F-4017) For Tri-X you can shoot it 1 stop underexposed ISO800 and process that same as shot at ISO400. Would suggest dilution H due to the rather short development time provided by dilution B.
 
Maybe I'm completely stupid, but wouldn't be Ilford Delta 3200 be the most logical choice? As I understand it, it really is a 1000 iso film in HC110.

That's what I would use, but grain is apparent, not that I dislike it. It depends on the subject. For a single portrait it's fine, for a scene with numerous people or fine details the grain can compete with the detail.

The choice between Delta3200 and a 400 film is the compromise between shadow detail, grain and contrast.
 
Tmax 400 in Xtol (1+1) : good speed and not much grain.

I find there's quite a difference between HC-110 and Xtol for smaller formats.
 
Tri-X and Acufine works for me at that speed or so.

XTOL is another option though I normally shoot Tri-X at 640 w/ XTOL.
 
HC110 can be used to push but there are better choices. Acufine and Ethol UFG are excellent choices. I Use HC110 and Rodinal for my standard developers but find Acufine superior when needing extra speed. I personally use HP5 in acufine and rate it at 800. Shadows are full and hiights are open. Grain is no more than HC110 at 400 ISO.

I mainly wet print and the negs are what I would call normal and print like HC110 negs.

Unlike most developers that mainly increase contrast by pushing up highlight density and shadows being thin, Acufine increases shadow density giving a true boost in speed.
 
Acufine sounds interesting, does it work well with a two-stop push (E.I.400 -> E.I.1600) also?



HC110 can be used to push but there are better choices. Acufine and Ethol UFG are excellent choices. I Use HC110 and Rodinal for my standard developers but find Acufine superior when needing extra speed. I personally use HP5 in acufine and rate it at 800. Shadows are full and hiights are open. Grain is no more than HC110 at 400 ISO.

I mainly wet print and the negs are what I would call normal and print like HC110 negs.

Unlike most developers that mainly increase contrast by pushing up highlight density and shadows being thin, Acufine increases shadow density giving a true boost in speed.
 
I shoot tri x at 800 with hc110. I will have both 400 and 800 on the same roll. The one stop underexposure isn't that big a deal. For me.. The times are the same for 400 or 800 according to Kodak. Dilution b at 6:30..
 
Acufine should do very well with HP5 at 1600. I'd invest in a can and a few rolls of HP5. Do a test where you shoot your first frame at 400, the Second at 800 and the third at 1600. Expose the entire roll repeating this bracket. Clip about 8 inche's from the roll (in the dark) and load it into your processing tank. Run it normal in your standard developer like HC110. Next do another clip and run it at 800 in Acufine and then do the same AF 1600 in Acufine. Make certain to label the rolls by cutting 1,/&3 notches in the perfs or some method so you'll know the processing you did.

Examine the negs for shadow detail and then print or scan and evaluate.
 
For pushing I'd try Acufine or UFG. They both are excellent and have been around for about l50 years. A number of my co workers in the late 60's swore by UFG.
 
Thanks a lot, very helpful! I will try to get my hands on some Acufine and give it a try.

Acufine should do very well with HP5 at 1600. I'd invest in a can and a few rolls of HP5. Do a test where you shoot your first frame at 400, the Second at 800 and the third at 1600. Expose the entire roll repeating this bracket. Clip about 8 inche's from the roll (in the dark) and load it into your processing tank. Run it normal in your standard developer like HC110. Next do another clip and run it at 800 in Acufine and then do the same AF 1600 in Acufine. Make certain to label the rolls by cutting 1,/&3 notches in the perfs or some method so you'll know the processing you did.

Examine the negs for shadow detail and then print or scan and evaluate.
 
Rollei RPX-400 E.I. 800 in HC-110 dilution B. Although the RPX-D developer works better even till E.I. 1600 it is not any problem.
 
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