Reel-loading tips for a film newbie?

De_Corday

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Is there some sort of trick to loading the old stainless-type reels? Been playing around with both 36 and 24 exp reels (35mm) and every roll I get some minor hopping of the rails that means a frame or two gets lost... Is this just one of those practice makes perfect kinds of things?
 
I found standing the reel on end, ie as a wheel (mine have a spring tab) and rolling the reel on a hard surface (in place), squeezing the film to give it a curl so it fits while keeping mild tension on the film as it feeds. I still get a kink from time to time and have to unroll, particularly when the film is tucked under the tab out of square to the run.
 
Hmm, I use plastic ... but I am not sure if this works with stainless ... I clip of the sharp corners so they do not catch, and I make sure that everything is dry.

<< ignore this as I just realized how steel reels are loaded >>
 
I like what you're saying, Gene. I think I might try that.

Right now I'm using a small changing bag and there's not a lot of room to work. I'm thinking the small kinks I'm getting might be from when I have to let up on the tension for a second to reposition in the small bag... a bigger bag (or talking my way into a darkroom) might be in order? Or maybe I'm just psyching myself out.
 
I like what you're saying, Gene. I think I might try that.

Right now I'm using a small changing bag and there's not a lot of room to work. I'm thinking the small kinks I'm getting might be from when I have to let up on the tension for a second to reposition in the small bag... a bigger bag (or talking my way into a darkroom) might be in order? Or maybe I'm just psyching myself out.

In lieu of a darkroom, maybe search out a dark box, easier to use than a bag imo and it has a solid floor. They probably go for peanuts on the auction site. Good luck.
 

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Gene's method (rolling on a flat surface and letting the reel pull the film) is the method I use, too. And as he mentions you need to cup the film slightly and let the reel do the work (i.e., don't roll it onto the reel but let the reel pull the film.)

I addition, I use the Hewes reels. These are very well made (will last a lifetime) and have two prongs on the spindle that allow you to anchor the film with the sprocket holes. I never rewind the film all the way into the film cassette when I'm done exposing a roll. Instead I leave the tongue hanging out (you can bend it slightly to signify an exposed roll.)

With the tongue out, I cut off the end squarely and attach the film sprockets to the Hewes reel in daylight. Once the film is anchored with the Hewes it will never skip a space on the reel. I roll it on completely in the dark, of course (a Harrison film tent works great.) Getting the film onto the reel correctly (Hewes or generic) is important and starting it in daylight makes it very easy.

The Hewes are made in the UK and are worth every penny, imho.

Here's the Hewes reel compared to a generic made in China reel. And you can see the prongs on the spindle in the other photo of the Hewes by itself.
 
Is there some sort of trick to loading the old stainless-type reels? Been playing around with both 36 and 24 exp reels (35mm) and every roll I get some minor hopping of the rails that means a frame or two gets lost... Is this just one of those practice makes perfect kinds of things?

Yes, and you know why?
Because your hands are slightly different than mine.

Practice will allow you to find out how much pinching (the sides of film as it enters the reel) you need to muster. Practice also will tell you how fast you need to rotate the reel to pull the film into itself that works for you.

In my experience, these two factors in whether the film skips the rails or not.
 
Will, thank you.

Here's another question, having just loaded a reel far more successfully using Gene's method, but having lost the last few frames where the end of the film has more tendency to curl... should I be loading with or against the natural curl of the film? (been loading with, so far)
 
Load with the curl. And I second the rolling method and Hewes reels all the way. That's what I use and do, and I've never had a problem since I started with it. As for losing frames at the end, I simply am careful to not squeeze out any extras over what the roll is rolled for when I shoot, which, since I bulk load my film, they usually end up being lost to exposure from rolling anyway.
 
I guess I'm lucky as I don't have issues loading ss reels - 16mm to 70mm 15 feet. I started in 1972 and still use them. I curl the film with my right hand and roll the reel in my left.

Plastic reels have given me fits so I avoid them.
 
Practise, practise. I use steel Kindermann reels. Similar to Hewes except there's a lip rather than prongs. I sacrificed a roll and went around the house a day loading numerous times. Eventually it became really easy to feel how much pinch was needed to make the film fit in the spiral.
 
If you want to practice, get a roll of cheap film and just waste it by taking it out of the cassette, and spooling it up in the light. Do this until it works perfectly every time with your eyes closed. Then it will be no problem in the dark, as you will have the feel of the film going onto the spool down pat.
 
I have Nikor reels with the spring clip like the Chinese version Vertov shows. I never put the film under the clip, as I can never get it straight. I just slip the end of the film between the cross wires and roll from there. That way it's kind of self straightening.
As said, the proper curl and tension comes from practice. I do pop the spool out of the cassette and hold it in my hand. I think less tension/friction helps.
I always have trouble with Ilford Delta films. It seems they take quite a curl. I load these backwards and it works better for me.
Practice, practice, practice! I've been doing this for nearly 70 years and still screw up now and then.
 
I just bought a book of David Burnett's photos from the Iranian Revolution, and theres a contact sheet in there with three usable frames, everything else trashed. He explains in the caption that he misloaded the film in a paterson reel. Nice to know it happens to even the best.

Bruce, I dig the idea of trying the Nikor reels without the clip. I have a Nikor reel and have often found the clip to be a problem. I also had a bit of trouble with Ilford... HP5 seemed to kink a lot. Unfortunately I really like it, and it dries better for me than Tri-X... so... practice practice practice.
 
That is the way to go. A test roll loaded in daylight over and over again till you get it.

My girlfriend's son wanted to try developing some film saying he wanted to do it from beginning to end. I pulled out a bulk roll of polypan and had him practice while watching it till he got it right. Then he practiced with his eyes closed till he got it right. From there he practiced on that roll of film again in the black bag till he got it right.

After that rolling up the real roll of film was easy for him to do.

Now he is eyeballing my medium format cameras.......
 
If you want to practice, get a roll of cheap film and just waste it by taking it out of the cassette, and spooling it up in the light. Do this until it works perfectly every time with your eyes closed. Then it will be no problem in the dark, as you will have the feel of the film going onto the spool down pat.

We have lots of loose 35mm film rolls out of the cassette for students to practice with. They spend time practicing in the daylight (and on easy Paterson plastic reels!) and with their eyes closed, etc.. And when the time comes to go for it, we have several film loading rooms for them to use. But invariably once they get into that little room and know that this time it's for real, many of them freak out and all their practice goes down the drain. It's like this every quarter. 🙂
 
Gene's method (rolling on a flat surface and letting the reel pull the film) is the method I use, too. And as he mentions you need to cup the film slightly and let the reel do the work (i.e., don't roll it onto the reel but let the reel pull the film.)

I addition, I use the Hewes reels. These are very well made (will last a lifetime) and have two prongs on the spindle that allow you to anchor the film with the sprocket holes. I never rewind the film all the way into the film cassette when I'm done exposing a roll. Instead I leave the tongue hanging out (you can bend it slightly to signify an exposed roll.)

With the tongue out, I cut off the end squarely and attach the film sprockets to the Hewes reel in daylight. Once the film is anchored with the Hewes it will never skip a space on the reel. I roll it on completely in the dark, of course (a Harrison film tent works great.) Getting the film onto the reel correctly (Hewes or generic) is important and starting it in daylight makes it very easy.

The Hewes are made in the UK and are worth every penny, imho.

Here's the Hewes reel compared to a generic made in China reel. And you can see the prongs on the spindle in the other photo of the Hewes by itself.
I agree about the Hewes reels - they are must haves.

Gene's method is what works for me, too.

I cut off the film tails so they are square before putting my film cassettes, reels, tank, etc. in the dark bag. Inside the dark bag, I pull the film out of the cassette and snip it free of the cassette with scissirs. Next, I get the square end that I clipped the film tail off of and attach that end to the hooks on the hub of the reel.

This is the best method of loading 35mm film onto developing reels I have come up with to date.

Practice is key; the more you do this, the easier it gets.
 
These have all been a huge help, guys, thank you. I'm already getting better at this.

Seems the one place I'm consistently having trouble is the last few frames. I think it's that it's hard to keep proper tension on the film as I'm loading the end of it. Any tricks there?
 
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