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Trius
Waiting on Maitani
I have no personal experience with FSU cameras, but I've seen postings here and elsewhere recounting good repairs. So while your experience is really frustrating, Daniel, I wouldn't be put off from sending out an FSU camera for CLA. I sure would be careful with my choice of technician, though.
ZeissFan
Veteran
I'm currently working on a Kiev -- the version that's nearly identical to the prewar Contax II.
My thoughts:
-- Shutter is a dead ringer for the Contax II.
-- Fit and finish seem to be very good.
-- The small arm that catches the lower shutter on tensioning is made from a very thin and pliable. It feels to have more flexible than the Zeiss Ikon -- not a good thing for this part.
-- Lens helical binds slightly at infinity.
-- Some kind of odd material on lower drum. Zeiss Ikon used leather. This feels like some type of felt -- or something that reminds me of the lining they put under wall-to-wall carpeting. The lower drum also is not as polished.
Overall, this particular camera seems very well made.
My thoughts:
-- Shutter is a dead ringer for the Contax II.
-- Fit and finish seem to be very good.
-- The small arm that catches the lower shutter on tensioning is made from a very thin and pliable. It feels to have more flexible than the Zeiss Ikon -- not a good thing for this part.
-- Lens helical binds slightly at infinity.
-- Some kind of odd material on lower drum. Zeiss Ikon used leather. This feels like some type of felt -- or something that reminds me of the lining they put under wall-to-wall carpeting. The lower drum also is not as polished.
Overall, this particular camera seems very well made.
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
Daniel: Thanks for the clarifications. I'd be more inclined to the Kievs anyway, but your comments reinforce my leanings.
Earl
Earl
V
varjag
Guest
A collimation stand is well within budget of most repairsperson; probably the time/effort required is the key here.
ChrisN
Striving
I'd love to see a picture of a collimation stand, and a description of how it works. 
ZeissFan
Veteran
You can do collimating at home using an SLR, a telephoto lens (the longer, the better) and two tripods.
Keep in mind that calibrating a rangefinder and collimating a lens are separate steps. However, if the rangefinder system isn't working as designed, then you will get focusing errors.
Generally, if you suspect problems, you need to collimate the lens and calibrate the rangefinder and then test by focusing on objects at various distances and confirm that the calibration is in synch by inspecting the image on ground glass (or frosted tape) across the film plane. Set the shutter to B or T and keep it open. Obviously, this step becomes impossible with a Leica screw mount camera.
Here's my collimating instructions: http://elekm.net/zeiss/repair/collimate/ -- there are many others on the Internet using similar methods. This is what works for me.
Keep in mind that calibrating a rangefinder and collimating a lens are separate steps. However, if the rangefinder system isn't working as designed, then you will get focusing errors.
Generally, if you suspect problems, you need to collimate the lens and calibrate the rangefinder and then test by focusing on objects at various distances and confirm that the calibration is in synch by inspecting the image on ground glass (or frosted tape) across the film plane. Set the shutter to B or T and keep it open. Obviously, this step becomes impossible with a Leica screw mount camera.
Here's my collimating instructions: http://elekm.net/zeiss/repair/collimate/ -- there are many others on the Internet using similar methods. This is what works for me.
pangkievrange
Established
I use a strong halogen lamp and a piece of glass (not a ground one) with a marked cross (I take the thickness of the cross into account.
ZeissFan said:
derevaun
focus free
ZeissFan said:
I don't quite understand this last bit. Why is it impossible with LTM cameras?
photodog
Well-known
If anyone wants a Zeiss ground glass viewer for $50 send me a PM. Genuine Zeiss product. It was originally made for the Contax close up system. Please note the mount in the photo, I don't believe the 50mm lenses will fit.
DaveP
Well-known
monocular
monocular
I use the same method ,only I eliminated the slr. Set your slr on a tripod with a bright light behind it (I used an 8008). Set the lens, I used a 100mm Series E, to infinity. Take the monocluar and look into the lens of the camera and focus on the autofocus brackets until sharp. At this point ,tape the focus ring in place on the monocular then go to the work bench and glue the focus ring on the monocular in place at that setting. When dry ,you now have a new focus tool. Now , use the same procedure as before only instead of using the slr to look into the RF camera , use the monocular. A lot easier to deal with! You can set the RF flat on its back on a light box and look downward. You could also use one side of a pair of binoculars and just tape the focus ring in place firmly.................
monocular
I use the same method ,only I eliminated the slr. Set your slr on a tripod with a bright light behind it (I used an 8008). Set the lens, I used a 100mm Series E, to infinity. Take the monocluar and look into the lens of the camera and focus on the autofocus brackets until sharp. At this point ,tape the focus ring in place on the monocular then go to the work bench and glue the focus ring on the monocular in place at that setting. When dry ,you now have a new focus tool. Now , use the same procedure as before only instead of using the slr to look into the RF camera , use the monocular. A lot easier to deal with! You can set the RF flat on its back on a light box and look downward. You could also use one side of a pair of binoculars and just tape the focus ring in place firmly.................
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photodog
Well-known
greyhoundman said:
True, but there exists a special ground glass viewer that screws onto LTM lenses to do this. I have one.
Kim Coxon
Moderator
Hi,
This is my Collimator. The Fed 2 body was a couple of $ with busted curtains and a couple of other problems but the RF was good. The screen is made from an old Cokin filter made into a "ground" screen by using 1200 wet and dry on a glass plate and the glued to the rails. The back was cut and then the flage/film plane was checked using a known good lens and the SLR method. The Rf was then set up.
To collimate a lens, first the lens is mounted and set up at infinity using the slr. The near focus is then checked using the RF and a loupe. If I have to set up another Fed, I tape the other half of the filter the the rails of that Fed and use the back with the camera set on B. I also have a Zorki 4 back that has the same mod for setting them up.
Kim
This is my Collimator. The Fed 2 body was a couple of $ with busted curtains and a couple of other problems but the RF was good. The screen is made from an old Cokin filter made into a "ground" screen by using 1200 wet and dry on a glass plate and the glued to the rails. The back was cut and then the flage/film plane was checked using a known good lens and the SLR method. The Rf was then set up.
To collimate a lens, first the lens is mounted and set up at infinity using the slr. The near focus is then checked using the RF and a loupe. If I have to set up another Fed, I tape the other half of the filter the the rails of that Fed and use the back with the camera set on B. I also have a Zorki 4 back that has the same mod for setting them up.
Kim