Replacing a M2 finder with the MA finder

YYE can do the re-cement but first we need a thorough description of what @Rich1950 is seeing exactly.
If YYe does do recementing and recently did a CLA on the M2, if there was any sign of RF balsam separation you'd think he would have mentioned it; DAG certainly would have. If the M2 is from 1960 it has the latest/current center RF window. The original M2 center window w/button RW might produce a slightly dimmer RF - I don't know.
 
I want to underline the fact that film Leicas are repairable.....& should be repaired. And people with the skills of Don Goldberg won't be around for ever.
I've used Leica M since 1968....& sold an MP (reissue) to get this M4....which Don whipped back into top shape ....good for another 50 yrs.
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If the RF prism has separated and remained that way for some time, the silver coating may oxidize, after recemented, resulting in a dim viewfinder. The prism can be re‑silvered, but the process is generally not cost‑effective
 
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If the RF prism has separated and remained that way for some time, the silver coating may oxidize, after recemented, resulting in a dim viewfinder. The prism can be re‑silvered, but the process is generally not cost‑effective
It depends on what you consider 'cost effective to be'..........if i had the M2 i bought used in '68 for $175......even a $1000+ in repairs would be worth it in the overall life of the camera. On the other hand if i bought one today w a dim viewfinder for top dollar.....would be another story. But the original question was about replacing it with an MP viewfinder....
 
To Madoc, of course it is sensible to sell the old stuff and buy new. I did that more than 20 some years ago when I sold a M6 and 35/2.0 for a MP. Over the years I tried of protecting the MP from a handling mark which would delete $500 of value. I also wanted to experience a legacy M2/3/5. I’m an active darkroom user since 1998 so I’m actively shooting and enlarging.

To Beemermark. Part of the pleasure of using a M is its form….ie the unpopularity of the M5. We all recognize a M2/3/4 jewel like presence….(put me down as a bit of a fondler), and the superb Leica M viewfinder which is easier to focus than 99% of manual focus SLRs. We may differ but the M2 is the most elegant M body and as such it adds to the fun of using it. When I owned the plain MP I lusted for a legacy M with the beautiful engraved script, richer chrome finish, and old style frame selector. The clean 3 frame-lines a facter. So a M2 would be perfect except on my camera I find the finder is not as crisp as I wish for. That said, on second thought I think the cost of replacing the viewfinder with a MA is going too far. Perhaps someone who has done this mod can give us the outcome. I can see risk that for some reason a replacement MA finder does not result in “Just like new”; besides, you lose the M2 unique frames.

Youxin Ye did a CLA of my 65 year old mint M2. He did not identify any finder issues. There are no wipe marks or haze inside the finder or on the rear eye piece. Shining a light through the front window to the rear eyepiece shows a super clean finder. Best Condition I have seen on an older camera. I exchanged several emails with Ye over improving the finder brightness. He wrote the early M2 and M3’s generally had darker finders due to the process of coating the mirror. The process resulted in a contrasty patch and frame-lines. He said later cameras had a lighter blue tint.

I have thought of Camera Works rehabbing the finder. But the cost is high and they are no longer accepting oversea work.

My M2 does have more contrast between background and framelines/patch than my M3 and 5. It’s the details outside of the patch which are harder to see in less finder brightness.

What do I see as an issue with my M2.

1. The finder is 1/2 to 1/3 stop darker than the M3. The M3 is a 1/2 to 1/3 stop darker than my M5. For inside use the M2 patch is easier to focus than my 1966 Minolta SRT…. But, its hard to see detail or what your photographing outside of the patch. I would pick up another camera vs the M2 for inside shooting, not the case with a MP. I believe leica was intentional in having the area outside of the M2 patch a bit dark so the lighter patch and frames had great apparent contrast.

2. Despite Mr. Ye installing coated windows there is higher overall finder glare when shooting with the sun in front of the shoulder (10:00 or 2:00 o'clock) than the M3 and M5. If I shade the camera by wearing a very wide hat brim it makes a huge difference.

3. This is odd but while the finder coincidence is focused the appearance of the object in the patch is just a tiny bit less sharp than my M3/5. I’m talking just a small amount so you question if it’s my imagination. Likely is.

Now, if I shoot outside with the sun behind my shoulder I’m satisfied. I do notice the detail in a deep shadow is dimmer vs the other two bodies I own. So it would be nice if the finder contrast used outside matched my M5.

The reality is the camera is 65 years old. I’m underwater if I sell and it gets worse if I chase after improvements. The goal is to slim down my collection and break even. My current advice to myself is use the camera and forget comparisons. Optics draw the image and I have a wonderful set of Walter Mandler designed glass.
 
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This is a very helpful explanation.

For reference I have the following M2s spanning several years in various states of restoration, or just arrived:

932xxx button rewind no ST - 1958
9607xx button rewind no ST - 1959 ('new light window' listed on the Cameraquest s/n list from 960601)
1036xxx lever rewind no ST -1961
1049xxx lever rewind ST - 1962
105xxxx lever rewind ST - 1962
1108xxx lever rewind ST - 1965

Tomorrow I'm going to do a close inspection of each of these to compare the viewfinders. Will report the results. And compare with other cameras here (M4, M6 among others.)
 
A few months ago YYE serviced the camera. I had thought the rear eye piece may be double glass like the 1959 M3. My M2 is a late 1960 SN assembled in Canada.
 
Yes I received a report and there was no issue. I asked several times about improving the finder and was told by him that some finders are darker than others. The text below is what I received from Alan Starkey of Camera Works in UK.

“I find quite a lot of variation of the VF light transmission (how much shadow detail you can see and how the RF patch works in low and bright light), as well as the general colour cast caused by the prism. Silver was traditionally used as a beamsplitter but it isn’t neutral in colour. If I made a neutral density filter using silver, it would give a blue cast. Sometimes the cast might look a bit warmer even brown-ish. That tends to signify that the silver is oxidising.

When I re-apply the beamsplitter to a prism, only silver, it is done in a vacuum chamber, the amount of time, the current going through the machine and other parameters are based on experience and back in the day, that’s how things were done at the factory and accounts for some variation.

Later aluminium was used. Silver reflects more ‘warm’ colours, thus transmits colder colours. Alumimium is much more neutral in that respect. I might be able to find a prism from a later camera such as an M6 or even MP that is in good condition that might give the results you want as they used aluminium. I think M5’s were using aluminium also.

It must be said that there are other optical components in the rangefinder that can give trouble, I would want to make sure all of those are checked out too.

The easiest option, if that is possible is to remove or get the rangefinder removed by a camera tech - a very simple thing - making sure we also get the rangefinder arm and the other bits attached. That simplifies customs. Used camera spare part valued at $50 something like that and the same on return. After fitting back into the camera, close focus and infinity focus would need adjusting but I can advise on that. I’ve yet to see someone on YouTube at least who knows how to do this properly!” —. Alan

I have not looked through another M2 finder. So it hard for me to know what is typical. Owners are all over the place describing their finder. My M2 had next to no use and was bought from a Dutch dealer.
 
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I did the following quick and dirty test this morning on a variety of cameras.

Method: set up a diffused studio light with the cameras pointed at the light. The camera position was identical for all, with the diffused light entirely in the field of view.

Used a digital light meter with a tiny front mounted sensor, placed up against the eyepiece of each camera. The meter reports exposure values, position of the meter adjusted for max value.

Here are the results.

year serial EV
M3 1955 786xxx 10.4
M2 1958 932xxx 10.8
M2 1960 9607xx 10.9
M3 1960 1003xxx 10.8
M2 1961 103xxxx 10.0
M3 1962 104xxxx 10.7
M2 1962 1049xxx 11.0
M2 1962 105xxxx 10.6
M2 1965 110xxxx 10.8
M4 1970 126xxxx 10.8
M6 1990 178xxxx 11.0

The EV values are: 10.4, 10.9, 10.0, 11.0, 10.8, 11.0
Mean: 10.68 EV
Median: 10.85 EV
Minimum: 10.0 EV
Maximum: 11.0 EV
Range: 1.0 EV
Variance: 0.13
Standard Deviation: 0.37 EV

Exposure Value (EV) is a logarithmic scale where a 1 EV difference corresponds to a doubling or halving of light intensity.

The maximum difference between any of these models being 1 EV, or 1 stop, so in lower light conditions the M2 from 1961 would be the least bright and the M2 and M6 with an EV of 11 would be the brightest.

Directly comparing the M2 with a rating of EV 10 to the M2 with an EV rating of 11, the difference between the two, to my eye was obvious.

My workshop (metal building) is very well lit, with four large LED panels hanging from the ceiling. I can dim the LEDs to their lowest setting and it looks like twilight (meter indicates about a 2.2 EV drop or about an 80% drop in intensity, or only 20% of the max brightness setting.)

However, without a direct comparison between the two cameras I never would have thought the dimmer M2 was somehow not acceptable; I have no problem focusing and framing this camera in the lowest light setting in my workshop, or even with the lights completely off, with only a few rays coming through a window (it's bright and sunny today here in Texas.)

What is interesting is that the highest EV recorded are M2 from 1962 which has the same brightness as the latest camera in the group, an M6 from 1990.

Not sure this is of interest to anyone but I find it so. 😎😆


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Additionally there is one camera that is noticeably below the others, the M2 rated at 10.0.

I ran the data through Grok and asked the question:

looking at the data from the 11 cameras, what if the outliers were eliminated? would there be any practical difference between any of the cameras?

Grok:

Identifying and Eliminating Outliers

Using standard statistical methods (IQR rule) on this small sample, there are no formal outliers — the data is tightly clustered with a range of 1.0 EV total.The two most extreme values are:
  • Lowest: 10.0 EV (1961 M2)
  • Highest: 11.0 EV (two instances: 1962 M2 and 1990 M6)
If we conservatively treat these as potential outliers (e.g., due to measurement variability, slight meter positioning differences you mentioned, or individual camera condition/age-related prism/fogging issues), and remove both extremes (10.0 and one 11.0 for symmetry), or just the single lowest (10.0), the remaining values become much more consistent.Remaining values after removing the 10.0 EV outlier (most logical single outlier, as it's the only one noticeably below the main cluster):
  • 10.4, 10.9, 11.0, 10.8, 11.0
  • Mean: ≈10.82 EV
  • Range: 0.6 EV (10.4 to 11.0)
  • Standard deviation: ≈0.22 EV (much tighter than the original ~0.37 EV)
If we also drop one of the 11.0 values (to exclude both ends), the core cluster is even tighter:
  • Roughly 10.4–10.9 EV range
  • Differences shrink to ~0.5 EV max
Would There Be Any Practical Difference Between the Cameras?
In real-world use — especially for Leica M rangefinder shooting — no, there would be essentially no meaningful practical difference once the outlier(s) are set aside.Here's why:
  • The remaining spread (0.5–0.6 EV at most) represents a luminance change of roughly 35–50% brighter/dimmer at the extremes.
  • In photographic viewfinder contexts, differences below ~0.3–0.5 EV are typically subtle at best, and often imperceptible in normal shooting (especially with eye adaptation over seconds of viewing).
  • User reports and comparisons across Leica M film bodies (M3, M2, M6, etc.) frequently describe viewfinder brightness as "similar" or "equally bright" between well-maintained M2 and M6 examples, with only larger variances (0.5+ EV) noted when comparing older vs. newer or cleaned vs. uncleaned units.
  • The M3's slightly lower measured value (10.4) aligns with some anecdotal reports of it feeling marginally dimmer in certain conditions, but the difference is rarely called game-changing — especially since the M3's higher 0.91× magnification trades some brightness for better focusing precision on longer lenses.
  • Larger reported differences in Leica community discussions (e.g., M6 sometimes described as "brighter" than vintage M2/M3 due to coatings or prism design) tend to be subjective or tied to flare resistance rather than raw brightness, and even those are often debated as negligible in side-by-side use.
Bottom Line
If we disregard the single clear low outlier (10.0 EV, possibly an anomalous measurement or a camera with minor internal haze/dirt), the remaining Leica M cameras in your test show viewfinder brightness clustered so tightly (within ~0.6 EV) that practical differences in everyday shooting would be negligible to nonexistentfor most photographers.You'd be hard-pressed to reliably tell them apart in real use — especially given normal eye adaptation, varying ambient light, and the fact that Leica M viewfinders are prized for staying consistently bright and usable regardless of lens aperture (unlike SLR finders). Any perceived differences would more likely stem from magnification style (M3 vs. M2/M6), frameline clarity, flare behavior, or individual sample condition than from these tiny measured EV variances.
 
Thank you for your effort. My M2 is very usable….just a stop darker than my mint M5 which was recently serviced by DAG. My 1962 M3 has brighter or more open shadows outside the focus patch. The M3 nor M5 have as contrasty frame lines or patch as my M2.
 
Additionally there is one camera that is noticeably below the others, the M2 rated at 10.0.

I ran the data through Grok and asked the question:

looking at the data from the 11 cameras, what if the outliers were eliminated? would there be any practical difference between any of the cameras?

Grok:

Identifying and Eliminating Outliers

Using standard statistical methods (IQR rule) on this small sample, there are no formal outliers — the data is tightly clustered with a range of 1.0 EV total.The two most extreme values are:
  • Lowest: 10.0 EV (1961 M2)
  • Highest: 11.0 EV (two instances: 1962 M2 and 1990 M6)
If we conservatively treat these as potential outliers (e.g., due to measurement variability, slight meter positioning differences you mentioned, or individual camera condition/age-related prism/fogging issues), and remove both extremes (10.0 and one 11.0 for symmetry), or just the single lowest (10.0), the remaining values become much more consistent.Remaining values after removing the 10.0 EV outlier (most logical single outlier, as it's the only one noticeably below the main cluster):
  • 10.4, 10.9, 11.0, 10.8, 11.0
  • Mean: ≈10.82 EV
  • Range: 0.6 EV (10.4 to 11.0)
  • Standard deviation: ≈0.22 EV (much tighter than the original ~0.37 EV)
If we also drop one of the 11.0 values (to exclude both ends), the core cluster is even tighter:
  • Roughly 10.4–10.9 EV range
  • Differences shrink to ~0.5 EV max
Would There Be Any Practical Difference Between the Cameras?
In real-world use — especially for Leica M rangefinder shooting — no, there would be essentially no meaningful practical difference once the outlier(s) are set aside.Here's why:
  • The remaining spread (0.5–0.6 EV at most) represents a luminance change of roughly 35–50% brighter/dimmer at the extremes.
  • In photographic viewfinder contexts, differences below ~0.3–0.5 EV are typically subtle at best, and often imperceptible in normal shooting (especially with eye adaptation over seconds of viewing).
  • User reports and comparisons across Leica M film bodies (M3, M2, M6, etc.) frequently describe viewfinder brightness as "similar" or "equally bright" between well-maintained M2 and M6 examples, with only larger variances (0.5+ EV) noted when comparing older vs. newer or cleaned vs. uncleaned units.
  • The M3's slightly lower measured value (10.4) aligns with some anecdotal reports of it feeling marginally dimmer in certain conditions, but the difference is rarely called game-changing — especially since the M3's higher 0.91× magnification trades some brightness for better focusing precision on longer lenses.
  • Larger reported differences in Leica community discussions (e.g., M6 sometimes described as "brighter" than vintage M2/M3 due to coatings or prism design) tend to be subjective or tied to flare resistance rather than raw brightness, and even those are often debated as negligible in side-by-side use.
Bottom Line
If we disregard the single clear low outlier (10.0 EV, possibly an anomalous measurement or a camera with minor internal haze/dirt), the remaining Leica M cameras in your test show viewfinder brightness clustered so tightly (within ~0.6 EV) that practical differences in everyday shooting would be negligible to nonexistentfor most photographers.You'd be hard-pressed to reliably tell them apart in real use — especially given normal eye adaptation, varying ambient light, and the fact that Leica M viewfinders are prized for staying consistently bright and usable regardless of lens aperture (unlike SLR finders). Any perceived differences would more likely stem from magnification style (M3 vs. M2/M6), frameline clarity, flare behavior, or individual sample condition than from these tiny measured EV variances.

There are not enough data points to understand if the camera that scored 10.0 and those that scored 11.0 are outliers. Grok is basing this output on a standard distribution, when you have no idea if the distribution might be overdispersed or feathered. As usual, it is not very intelligent, it is just a big algorithm with a lot of jumbled up basic inputs.
 
Of course, but these are the only data points I have, so they do represent the extremes. Nothing wrong with looking at the data in different ways. It's just a fun little exercise after all, mostly for my own benefit...even a camera a full stop dimmer was pretty much irrelevant, to me at least. It's much more important to have a constrasty RF patch. 🙂
 

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