Georgia Requesting a Workshop

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Point taken, I have been looking at scans, not prints.

I will be printing some recent shots this week, see how I feel after that.

Randy

I didn't know you were scanning your film. If you're printing from the scans, and the image on screen looks good, you'll probably like the prints.

If you plan to print in the darkroom, then your prints will probably look different than the scans.

 

[zauhar]

I didn't know you were scanning your film. If you're printing from the scans, and the image on screen looks good, you'll probably like the prints.

If you plan to print in the darkroom, then your prints will probably look different than the scans.

Chris, I meant printing in the darkroom, so your comments apply.

Randy

 

[dave lackey]

Randy, I hear you...I have a couple of Paterson plastic tanks and reels. Tried loading with some old film and not sure if I did it right but it went in.

So, Chris, D76 with no exposure adjustments, right? How about the other chemicals?

And where the heck do you buy them? Always online?😕

 

[zauhar]

Dave, to continue the tip-fest, make sure the Paterson reels are assembled so that the two notches where the film goes in are even (i.e. so that the film enters both at the same time). It is possible to assemble the reels so that the notches are offset from each other, a mistake I made a couple of times - it is then much more difficult to get the film to load.

Actually the Paterson reels are pretty good - not as easy as the Samigon, but work fine.

Randy

 

[KM-25]

I shoot and develop about 10 rolls a week, 35mm & 120. While it is mostly Tri-x, I am also doing Techpan and HIE. I use D-76 1+1, Rodinal and TD-3 for Techpan.

I second the use of the iPhone massive development chart, used it last night for a roll of HIE. I use nothing but Hewes stainless steel reels, by far the easiest to load in any format.

Just use consistent agitation, keep your temps close, use decent water for mixing chemistry, perhaps cheap bottled if your tap stuff is harsh and be careful when removing excess water / photo flo from negs right before hanging up to dry to avoid scratching. Resist the temptation to wipe twice, that emulsion is softest when fresh out of the soup.

One more thing, I do a short temp controlled rinse in between stop bath and fix to help keep the latter working good.

Have fun, it is easy and you will be cooking along in no time!

 

[Paulbe]

Dave--Wing's may have chemicals; I think PPR--Professional Photo Resources--downtown may stock them also. How about Showcase?
Paul

 

[KM-25]

Randy, I hear you...I have a couple of Paterson plastic tanks and reels. Tried loading with some old film and not sure if I did it right but it went in.

So, Chris, D76 with no exposure adjustments, right? How about the other chemicals?

And where the heck do you buy them? Always online?😕

I have and use the Patterson ones when I am doing a lot of film in one day and have my wife help, they are decent but use a bit more chemistry, a few less agitation options. For example, some films call for vigorous agitation, traditional tanks are better in this regard. I have messed up loading 120 with the Patterson on a rare occasion but never with the Hewes.

I almost always use Freestyle since they carry just about everything and are by far the most loyal to film users.

 

[taskoni]

I moved to Ilford Delta from Tri-X and start using Ilford chemicals - Ilfosol 3 and Ilfotec 29 for developer, Ilford Rapid Fixer and that's it. I am not using stop bath although it is available. I am thinking to start using wet agent too... However, I use to process Tri-X with no problems with the same Ilford chemicals too...

Dave, if you need more technical part training for your own confidence of loading reels and shaking tanks we can always process a few rolls via skype if you feel like. I have no problems to stay longer to compensate the time difference for a friend 🙂

 

[atlcruiser]

Only use stainless reels...wait! Only use Jobo reels...rodinal is gods spit only use it.....D76 1+1 is the best thing since sliced bread, ABC pyro or go digital! Blah, blah :0


Many opinions and just as many valid techniques. DO not try to reinvent the wheel. I would suggest d76 1+1 and patterson reels to start. Kodak chemicals are easy and cheap with clear directions on the packages, available all over with good shelf life. Many would argue to use other chemicals but the vast majority of folks have started with d76 for a reason; it is a perfect starting point.

Lets just set a time for you to swing by. I have everything you need, including chemicals, to do a few rolls. Bring a few exposed rolls and a notepad and plan on 1.5 to 2 hours and you will be all set.

 

[atlcruiser]

Dave--Wing's may have chemicals; I think PPR--Professional Photo Resources--downtown may stock them also. How about Showcase?
Paul

Paul,
Both wings and showcase have a limited selection but at very hi prices. As much as I would like to support them both I buy all chems from B+H. Much better prices and either free or very cheap shipping. NYC to Atl is 3 days w/standard UPS


david

 

[dave lackey]

Only use stainless reels...wait! Only use Jobo reels...rodinal is gods spit only use it.....D76 1+1 is the best thing since sliced bread, ABC pyro or go digital! Blah, blah :0


Many opinions and just as many valid techniques. DO not try to reinvent the wheel. I would suggest d76 1+1 and patterson reels to start. Kodak chemicals are easy and cheap with clear directions on the packages, available all over with good shelf life. Many would argue to use other chemicals but the vast majority of folks have started with d76 for a reason; it is a perfect starting point.

Lets just set a time for you to swing by. I have everything you need, including chemicals, to do a few rolls. Bring a few exposed rolls and a notepad and plan on 1.5 to 2 hours and you will be all set.

Hey, that's cool! No idea how you can find time to do anything with all that's going on but I will give you a call next week. Thanks, David!🙂

 

[wgerrard]

Steel reels or plastic both do the job, Dave. Use what works for you. Do a couple practice runs to make sure you have a handle on timing and sequence. I process at the kitchen sink and tape times and sequence on the window in front of me, just as a reminder. Solutions are in front of me, left to right in order of use.

I don't like needing to reset a timer all the time. I use a digital timer that I set to run continuously. I just look at the time before I start each procedure and do the math.

Pay attention the first few times to getting the wet film off of the reel, just so you are comfortable with that. I hang my film to dry in a small empty closet. I carry the reel there covered with a damp cloth, and unwind the film in the closet. That seems to avoid most of the dust.

Have fun.

 

[atlcruiser]

Hey, that's cool! No idea how you can find time to do anything with all that's going on but I will give you a call next week. Thanks, David!🙂

I just spent a week with Michael and Paula at their studio in Penn then I drove their old rover down the blue ridge parkway to refurb it here in Atl.....busy is right.

One evening we can meet and just knock it out. One thing to consider is how many rolls at once you will want to develope. 2 rolls seems to be a good starting point in one tank. This only is an issue as you purchase your tanks and such.

I have jobo and patterson. Overall i think the patterson is easier to load and it is for sure cheaper.

Keep your eye out for a roller base. Bessler among others made them for years. Usually runs about $25 used. A roller base will take the one big variable out of the development which is agitation. It will also speed the process and reduce chemical consumpton. You can work up to a base as you do more and more film

I can show you exaclty what to buy and how to mix/store the chemicals. None of it is rocket science but it will help to see it before you do it.

 

[paulfish4570]

dave, you can't beat david's deal. get to it ... 🙂

 

[ampguy]

A few years ago I taught the kids to develop b/w in the bathroom. The hardest part was loading the ss reels, but it wasn't really that hard. We practiced about 10 times with a test roll (36 exp), and after 10 tries, we were all loading successfully with the lights off.

The subsequent process was just following recipes and charts. Our first 20 rolls had about 2 instances where the film touched an adjacent loop, with a couple of spoiled frames, and one of those was mine. But I still think ss are easier than paterson reels.

use timers and gadgets without lights or leds while loading.

get a heavy duty can opener and have scissors accessible in the dark. practice with a test roll until you can load and put in the tank, and lid on the tank. Then you can turn the lights on and take your time with the next steps.