Rewinding roll to use again later

[Shizam]

I have an M7 and a roll of Kodachrome I'm 10 images into but I want to change to Tri-X. What is the best way to rewind the roll currently in the M7 so that the tab of the roll is still available so I can re-load it later when I want to shoot Kodachrome again? I'm wondering because I've had cameras before that when you roll the film back up it sucks the tab into the canister.

Thanks,
Sam

 

[Nikon Bob]

Just rewind slowly until you feel the resistance to rewinding stop as the film comes free of the take up spool. Rewind no further and remove the film. Even wind it back into the can there are various tools/methods to get the leader back out of the film cassette.

Bob

 

[ferider]

Just roll it back carefully until you feel the tension change when the film leader leaves the take up spool. There is a noticable change of pressure and you should be able to hear it, too.

Roland.

 

[Florian1234]

I've heared about to put your ear on the body of the camera and rewind until you hear the front part of the film slip out of the tulip-shaped take-up element.

But maybe this won't work, I did not do this myself yet.


Or get yourself an instrument to get the film tongue out of the canister. Ilford for example sells them, but cost about 10€/15 to 20 US-$.

 

[Shizam]

Thanks all, I'll give it a go.

Sam

 

[oftheherd]

The rest of the story: Always load film the same way, usually putting the first sprocket hole past the leader, on the film right at the sprockets by the take up spool. Then if you want to change mid roll, do it as described above, feeling when the film is released by the spool. Mark the film as to how many exposures are on it. When you want to use it again, load it to where it was before. As you advance the roll, ensure the lens cap is on, the highest shutter speed is used, and the smallest aperture and point toward the darkest area you can, or inside as dim are area as you can. Go one more exposure than you marked on the film. I didn't invent the idea, just copied what used to be in the literature. Always worked for me.

 

[chris91387]

put your ear to the back. you'll hear the leader release from the spool.

 

[marke]

I do this quite often.

I do it pretty much the same way as everyone describes here, although I rewind it a bit further than when the resistance stops. After a few tries, you'll learn just how far you can go. I have a film retriever in my bag, but haven't needed it since the second film I tried this with.

Heck, we don't need no stinkin' adjustable ISO! 😀

 

[grainhound]

Many complain about the take up spools in the M2/3, but for me this is one situation in which they excel. It's easy to load the film to exactly the same position each time, because when that spool grabs on, it takes a very firm hold on the film. I did this several times when I had only an M2, and after the first time never skipped a frame when reloading. Never had overlapping frames. I also keep the film cans; a partially exposed roll went back in the can with a note as to # of frames exposed.

 

[Meakin]

Incidentally, just for info:

if you are ever without the tool used to get that tab back out of a film cannister thats sucked it up. Use the cheapest/outdated film that you can get hold of that still has its tab showing (not one that you intend to put in your camera!). Wet the tab - and gently feed it into the other cannister a good 1-2 cm. It will grab hold of the tab inside the other cannister, and with a bit of patience - you will be able get it out by turning the reels a bit at the same time.

Certainly not the best way - but it has save my a** a couple of times, when i was stuck. Not something you should do if you have other options though.

Cheers,

Meakin

 

[M like Leica M6]

I do that since many years, so I can tell you what can go wrong - all the possible mistakes I am listing are those I made myself.

First of all, even before you think about changing the film this way:

Make sure that you have something to mark the film as partially used and take a note how many frames you used.

Leaving the tab outside works fine, just as described before. If it does ot work when you are in a hurry you need one of those little gadgets that help you get the tab out again. The best of these is from AP and sold by Fotoimpex. Once you get used to it it's absolutely reliable.

When you used 10 frames of the film and change it and later put it back into the camera don't forget to put the lens cap on.

When you advance the film, beter forget about frame 11 and forward to 12. The transport mechanism is not exact enough to guarantee that the frames do not overlap if you continue with frame 11.

 

[spyder2000]

One other point here. With negative films, this isn't an issue, but with transparency film that is to be processed and mounted you run the risk that the first set of frames will be mounted correctly but the remaining ones not.

This is possible in the Kodachrome system mostly because the film is processed cine-style where customer rolls are spliced end-to-end and run sequentially. Most E-6 systems are roller transport or dip and dunk.

I'd make a note on the film for Dwayne's to read so as to allow the tech to check the mounting line up more than once.

 

[Windscale]

Buy a film retriever. These are normally very cheap.

 

[Avotius]

I do it all the time, rewind until you hear the film come off the catch near the tulip. Then be sure to use a sharpie to write how many shots you had on it, I have made that mistake before and ended up with lots of double exposures.

 

[lZr]

You can use all tricks above for multiple exposures also.

The thread remindes me my beautiful Maxxum 7, that have this mechanism built in. I can go forward/backward free and exactly on frame for multiple exposures and midroll swap.....
Nice future that must be incorporated in RF cameras

 

[savantcreative]

I have an M7 and a roll of Kodachrome I'm 10 images into but I want to change to Tri-X. What is the best way to rewind the roll currently in the M7 so that the tab of the roll is still available so I can re-load it later when I want to shoot Kodachrome again? I'm wondering because I've had cameras before that when you roll the film back up it sucks the tab into the canister.

Thanks,
Sam

As long as you can manually rewind do it slowly and wait until you hear and feel the file let go from the take up spool. You can then take it out safely. When you want to finish the roll put it back into the camera as though it was fresh place the lens cap on, select your highest shutter speed and smallest aperture and then go into a darkroom and shoot off 10 frames. Then, just to be sure click off another 2 to avoid overlap. Then you are good to go. I hope this helps.

Best regards