Ricohflex (Super or others) samples, thoughts, advice?

[charjohncarter]

🙂

here's a recent favourite of mine:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ydCuV9-sb9k



oh yeah, about Rolleis, they're not all super expensive. you can get a Rolleiflex Automat 'X' or 'MX' under 200 bucks if you look around. even less for the pre-war automats, but they'll have uncoated lenses (which is kinda cool but sorta not, I guess).

Selmer, nothing sounds like a real one. I'm not sure any camera manufacturers have ever produced a final, end, hard copy photo product, a print that is so much different from their competitors.

 

[emilp]

John, thanks! That close-up attachment seems to do the trick.

Todd, those are some very nice shots! Can't fault the sharpness of the lens, or the rendering of the OOF areas. Definitely extra points for the Diacord.

I do like the Zeiss Ikoflex though. Get one with a Tessar. I don't think they are very expensive but I haven't looked at the prices in a long time. I flocked the inside of the taking chamber with telescope flocking to eliminate the tendency of it to flare ($15 for flocking). I also waxed the focusing screen and that combined with the fresnel underneath it makes for a VERY bright viewfinder.

Mr. Fizzlesticks, great tips there. I understand the part about the flocking, but what do you mean exactly by "waxing" the focusing screen? Also, my diabolical plan to price myself out of all good alternative TLR cameras is coming along great! Mwahahaha! Wait, wait, that wasn't the plan...

Brett, I've seen praise of the Rolleicords on various threads here, and some very nice images. I hadn't realized the knobs were on the same side - that's a bonus point.

mooge, thanks for that. I would prefer coated lenses if possible. I read something about the later Rolleicords having light baffles in the viewing chamber, which the Automats don't have - that would give the Rolleicords the edge for me.

Nick, I've seen lots of praise for the Yashica D. I don't mind the separate shutter cocking and no double exposure prevention, though automatic shutter cocking is nice to have when possible. Even though the "secret" on the Yashica D and

Gabor, I've seen your legendary girl in the green subway photo in the other thread - I'm sure it made many interested in a Ricohflex VII, me included! As far as the dim viewing screen goes, it's probably still wonderful compared to squinting through the disaster of a viewfinder that most digital SLR's have, so that's not too worrisome. That said, I'm not too fond of the famous Tessar swirl in the bokeh, though it can look nice sometimes. I've seen it in photos from other Ricohflexes, too. But the sharpness in the center is definitely good.

 

[Dan Daniel]

The funny thing I have found is that most every camera can be used by most people no matter how the knobs are set up, etc. And that some camera will never be usable by some people no matter how the knobs are set up, etc.! Thisi s why the demise of real camera stores is a pain for those of us who can actually be stymie by certain design factors.

I move back and forth from a Minolta Autocord to a Rolleiflex 2.8C to a Rolleicord Va (and a Fuji GW690). Each one takes a minute to get back into, and then they all fall into place. I took the Pentax K10d out today and within five minutes it all came back to me, including shooting crazy amounts...

If you look at rolleicords (or 'flexes), be aware that especially in the '50s rollei made a constantly changing stream of models. So, for example, the Rolleicord V has the focus knob on the same side as the wind knob, but the Va and the Vb have the focus knob on the left side. Considering that people like Model and Doisneau and Avedon did great work with the knob on the left side should tell you that its flaws can be overcome 🙂

 

[emilp]

Dan, no doubt that's true. I'm just trying to avoid becoming prejudiced against TLR's because of excessively fiddly knobs, when they have many great features (large viewing screen, no blackout during taking of photo, quiet shutters, etc). As you said, a real camera store would be nice. But I'm trying the next best thing - semi-scientific surveying of previous victims of said fiddly knobs. 🙂

 

[farlymac]

Emil, I haven't shot mine in a while, mainly because I misplaced the hood and filter set I had for it. Then I got too many other cameras to play with and repair, so it has been waiting for me to get it back out in the light.

I was fortunate to get the leather case with mine, as it makes it easier to compose a scene. I used to own a Mamiya C330 Pro F, and it was a fine instrument. Three lenses, two prism hoods (one metered), and many more accessories were comprised in a very nice system. I didn't mind the weight, as it seemed to make it easier to steady the shot. I used a handle bracket most of the time. And I would love to have another one.

So here is a shot of my Super, and some samples from a couple of rolls I ran through it. Double exposures are really easy to do if you don't keep a rythm of wind, focus, and shoot going. Watch out for accidental tripping of the shutter. Or my really favorite mistake, attempting to use the winding knob to focus.


(5) Super Ricohflex in Color by br1078phot, on Flickr


(2) Livonia #34 by br1078phot, on Flickr


00140001_1 by br1078phot, on Flickr


00140008_2 by br1078phot, on Flickr

TLR's are great cameras, and they each have their quirks and weaknesses. But oh, such wondeful negatives.

PF

ps: The Super Ricohflex uses 36mm push-on filters and hood. That's why I didn't shoot mine much, it took a long time to find a replacement set.

 

[maddoc]

The Ricohflex VII also uses A36 (push-on) filters, very handy since I can use the caps / filters of my Leitz Elmar 50/3.5 and Summaron 35/3.5

 

[emilp]

I was fortunate to get the leather case with mine, as it makes it easier to compose a scene. I used to own a Mamiya C330 Pro F, and it was a fine instrument. Three lenses, two prism hoods (one metered), and many more accessories were comprised in a very nice system. I didn't mind the weight, as it seemed to make it easier to steady the shot. I used a handle bracket most of the time. And I would love to have another one.

I'm thinking that I probably wouldn't mind the weight. The images coming out of those are great.

So here is a shot of my Super, and some samples from a couple of rolls I ran through it. Double exposures are really easy to do if you don't keep a rythm of wind, focus, and shoot going. Watch out for accidental tripping of the shutter.

Those are some nice crispy shots. I can see a bit of softness in the corners, but it doesn't seem go far. Maybe keeping the apertures down at f8/f11 would solve that? Either way, I wouldn't expect perfect sharpness all across with these.

Or my really favorite mistake, attempting to use the winding knob to focus.

Hahaha! I don't mean to laugh, but that one did make me laugh. And it's a great tip. I never thought of that. Of course I don't have TLR habits from other TLR's so I'd remember to focus with the gears on a Ricohflex Super, but I could see how I could make that error with a TLR that has both knobs on the same side. Maybe those Rollei guys knew what they were doing when they put them on different sides after all...

TLR's are great cameras, and they each have their quirks and weaknesses. But oh, such wondeful negatives.

I do like a wonderful negative. 🙂

ps: The Super Ricohflex uses 36mm push-on filters and hood. That's why I didn't shoot mine much, it took a long time to find a replacement set.

The Ricohflex VII also uses A36 (push-on) filters, very handy since I can use the caps / filters of my Leitz Elmar 50/3.5 and Summaron 35/3.5[/IMG]

That's good information, thanks. Finding the proper size for accessories can be a pickle with older cameras. I was very happy to find a suitable hood for my Lynx. Now to get that smudge off the rear element...

 

[RichL]

When I used TLR's my Mamiya C-33 was the go to camera for tele, wide angle and close ups. For most shooting while wandering streets or mountains I used a Minolta Autocord RG 1. Both are fine cameras and I wouldn't hesitate to use either one today if I weren't using a 6x6 folder.

 

[shadowfox]

Ricohflex?
Now you get my attention.

I *love* Ricoh TLR's.
I have a Super Ricohflex, went through a Diacord (which I sold because it's very nice cosmetically and fetched way more than I put in it), then I got the Ricohmatic 225 which I still use to this day.

Here's a write up I did about the Super Ricohflex.

And here's another one on the Ricohmatic 225 equipped with a Rollei close-up filter.

And finally, one of my favorite from the Super Ricohflex:

If you need a CLA on your Ricoh TLR's (any of them), consider Mark Hansen in Oregon: http://www.zeissikonrolleirepair.com/

 

[emilp]

When I used TLR's my Mamiya C-33 was the go to camera for tele, wide angle and close ups. For most shooting while wandering streets or mountains I used a Minolta Autocord RG 1. Both are fine cameras and I wouldn't hesitate to use either one today if I weren't using a 6x6 folder.

I may well decide to do something like that eventually - one for wandering and one for the specialized tasks.

Will, thanks! Clearly there's nothing wrong with the contrast coming from those lenses. And those are some great sharp shots with the Rolleinar attached. Tempting stuff.

 

[je2a3]

Hi Emil,

Just uploaded test shots taken by these two cameras after a DIY CLA. Both had frozen focus due to the dreaded dried green grease. Surprisingly the younger Super Ricohflex shutter was hanging at 1/10 but a Naphtha bath + judicious use of a blower fixed it. As farlymac and others stated the lens is an A36, so I used a SOOGZ + 12585 lens hood for the test.

I also liked the geared focusing design and found the pics taken by the camera in the internet appealing. I did a lot of research to ascertain that if things go wrong DIY revival was within my abilities. The VF is not as bright as a Yashica-Mat but is a bit brighter than the Rolleicord III. Since it only has a triplet, I wasn't expecting Xenar or Yashinon resolution wide open. However I still liked what it could do at f5.6. It is a very basic design, speeds limited to B,10-200, no double exposure prevention and red window film counter. The Super Ricohflex has the "auto stop" wind feature but just learned how to use it after the test roll.

Hope this helps and good luck!

 

[mike rosenlof]

I've been using Mamiya TLRs for 30 years now. I think well of them.

I suggest that if you just want to try out if the TLR, waist level, square works for you, get a Yashica 124G. It's not the cheapest, but if you decide you don't want to keep it, it will sell reasonably easily, and you're close to even.

If you really want to do much close up work, I suggest an SLR. The only TLR method or device that I think is really usable is the 'paramender' for the Mamiya TLRs. It slows you down some, but the framing accuracy is great.

 

[PMCC]

The only TLR method or device that I think is really usable is the 'paramender' for the Mamiya TLRs. It slows you down some, but the framing accuracy is great.

Minolta made the "Paradjuster" for the Autocord to provide precise parallax compensation for close up work.

Here it is: http://www.crocuta.com/yashica/paradjuster.html

 

[emilp]

Hi Emil,

Just uploaded test shots taken by these two cameras after a DIY CLA. Both had frozen focus due to the dreaded dried green grease. Surprisingly the younger Super Ricohflex shutter was hanging at 1/10 but a Naphtha bath + judicious use of a blower fixed it. As farlymac and others stated the lens is an A36, so I used a SOOGZ + 12585 lens hood for the test.

I also liked the geared focusing design and found the pics taken by the camera in the internet appealing. I did a lot of research to ascertain that if things go wrong DIY revival was within my abilities. The VF is not as bright as a Yashica-Mat but is a bit brighter than the Rolleicord III. Since it only has a triplet, I wasn't expecting Xenar or Yashinon resolution wide open. However I still liked what it could do at f5.6. It is a very basic design, speeds limited to B,10-200, no double exposure prevention and red window film counter. The Super Ricohflex has the "auto stop" wind feature but just learned how to use it after the test roll.

Hope this helps and good luck!

Thanks! Also, nice product shot there of those two. 🙂

 

[emilp]

I suggest that if you just want to try out if the TLR, waist level, square works for you, get a Yashica 124G. It's not the cheapest, but if you decide you don't want to keep it, it will sell reasonably easily, and you're close to even.

The problem is, those are so trendy now the price is almost the same as a Mamiya 330f or 330s. And for the same money, surely the 330s are a much better value. But there's no doubt they are good performers, I've seen a lot of great shots taken with them.

If you really want to do much close up work, I suggest an SLR. The only TLR method or device that I think is really usable is the 'paramender' for the Mamiya TLRs. It slows you down some, but the framing accuracy is great.

I already have a number of SLR's (though in practice I really only use my Nikons most of the time), so it's not that I lack the capability. By closeup, I don't mean macros, just closer than the usual three or four feet that seems to be the standard for most TLR's. It seems to me that the square format works well with close shots, and being able to do it looking down into the large screen would help. Crouching and squinting, not so smooth.

Of course I suppose one could get a similar experience with a Pentacon Six with a waist level finder. But if you're going to already look down anyway, might as well have a TLR. That's my random theory anyway.

Speaking of getting in close with SLR's, I do have a Yashica Dental Eye III - one of the few great relatively undiscovered secrets in camera deals. I'm looking forward to playing with that one. Can't beat a 100mm Macro with a built-in ring flash all for just over $100 (when I got it a few months ago), or from the looks of things, just over $200 now that word is slowly spreading.

Minolta made the "Paradjuster" for the Autocord to provide precise parallax compensation for close up work.

Here it is: http://www.crocuta.com/yashica/paradjuster.html

Nice, good to know!

 

[farlymac]

The Mamiya 330's have an automatic paralax indicator in the viewfinder to keep you from cutting off the image when you are only a few feet away. But for closer work, a paramender is great to have. Don't know why you don't see any generic models around, just Mamiya or Minolta.

Minolta also had a nifty B30 polarizing filter that bayoneted over both lenses (called an Autopole), so you could see the effect in the viewfinder. Worked great on my 124G. Alas, I sold it with the camera, and the guy I sold it to probably never used it.

PF

 

[Dan Daniel]

Don't know why you don't see any generic models around, just Mamiya or Minolta.

Dual lens caps from Yahsicas, Minoltas, and Rolleis being interchangeable tells me that the lens spacing is the same on these various models. Meaning that at least the Minolta Parajuster could be considered 'generic' for a whole series of cameras.

Not certain if the Rolleiflex Bay II and Bay III lens center distances are the same.

A ruler and simply raising the head will work. Or a spacer of some sort using various quick-release plates and brackets? Not as slick as the Minolta spring-loaded feature...

 

[emilp]

Minolta also had a nifty B30 polarizing filter that bayoneted over both lenses (called an Autopole), so you could see the effect in the viewfinder.

One of those would definitely be nice to have. Getting a quality B + W polarizer was one of my smarter photography investments.

 

[shadowfox]

If you really want to do much close up work, I suggest an SLR. The only TLR method or device that I think is really usable is the 'paramender' for the Mamiya TLRs. It slows you down some, but the framing accuracy is great.

Depends on how close you want to be to your subjects.
I find that the Rolleinar and its Rolleiparkeil counterpart does a good job maintaining the framing consistency for subjects that are not closer than a foot away.

 

[KoNickon]

The Rolleinars are indispensible tools; no need for a Parajuster/Paramender tripod attachment. Bayonet I Rolleinars will fit Rolleicords, Autocords, Yashicamats, and Diacords.