saxshooter
Well-known
If I recall a grain focuser did just that, allowed you to focus your enlarger so that it was sharp to the grain of the negative. Grain was sharp regardless if the photo you took was in focus or not in focus, regardless of lens backlash or operator error.blakley said:
iml
Well-known
jlw said:
Well said. I've carried mine with me everywhere for nearly 4 months without a single problem, and RF alignment is still spot on. I suspect that, although we hear a lot about the quality control problems with this camera, a well-aligned example should generally be as unproblematic as any other camera. It does sound to me as if Ted's camera has a problem. I notice from another thread that Ted has some odd flare effects on occasion too, which also doesn't look like anything I've experienced.
RW are a very helpful bunch, and would be my first port of call.
Ian
Jim Watts
Still trying to See.
Sailor Ted,
I would second jlw's advice to send it back to Robert White. If it was accurate with the Zeiss 21mm when you got it and it drifted in three days this may indicate a part fault unless you remember giving the camera a sharp knock. Have you checked if it's out with other lenses (re. the posts above).
I have had my R-D1 for two years and the rangefinder has remained accurate for all this period (apart from the specific problems with the 35mm Cron above). I'm only now begining to (just) detect a slight vertical misalignment, but not enough for me to rush to adjust it just yet.
I remember Sean Reid reporting carrying his R-D1 around in a motorcycle pannier and if anything would knock a rangefinder out you would think this would. Although there have been a number of reported problems with the R-D1 rangefinder its harder to gauge the number of cameras that have continued to perform reliably over the 2.5 years since it was introduced and the camera may be no worst than the average rangefinder in this respect and therefore getting an undeserved poor reputation. As has been said above, because of the instant feedback it's eaisier to notice the problems than when using film.
Jim
I would second jlw's advice to send it back to Robert White. If it was accurate with the Zeiss 21mm when you got it and it drifted in three days this may indicate a part fault unless you remember giving the camera a sharp knock. Have you checked if it's out with other lenses (re. the posts above).
I have had my R-D1 for two years and the rangefinder has remained accurate for all this period (apart from the specific problems with the 35mm Cron above). I'm only now begining to (just) detect a slight vertical misalignment, but not enough for me to rush to adjust it just yet.
I remember Sean Reid reporting carrying his R-D1 around in a motorcycle pannier and if anything would knock a rangefinder out you would think this would. Although there have been a number of reported problems with the R-D1 rangefinder its harder to gauge the number of cameras that have continued to perform reliably over the 2.5 years since it was introduced and the camera may be no worst than the average rangefinder in this respect and therefore getting an undeserved poor reputation. As has been said above, because of the instant feedback it's eaisier to notice the problems than when using film.
Jim
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R
Robert
Guest
The more I hear of problems with the RD-1 the less I feel I would like to own one.
The rangefinder alignment seems to be a very serious issue and the problems with the lens focusing also can spoil enjoyment.
Has Epson done anything to address this problem or do they realise there is a serious problem with their cameras?
The rangefinder alignment seems to be a very serious issue and the problems with the lens focusing also can spoil enjoyment.
Has Epson done anything to address this problem or do they realise there is a serious problem with their cameras?
jim_buchanan
Established
Proper focus troubleshooting procedure
Proper focus troubleshooting procedure
I humbly offer this troubleshooting guide to isolate the problem. I understand how frustrating this could be.
1. Check infinity focus on all lenses used with the R-D1. If they all indicate the same amount of infinity focus (or not) then the infinity/collimator stop of the lenses are probably correct and you can be assured that its not the lens. In this case the infinity stop is out on the R-D1. Adjustable thru the hot shoe.
2. If one lens is determined to be off in the above example, it will affect close focus and the problem may not be the camera. I would expect Leica lens cams to be highly precise in this regard. I have no expereince with C-V or other lenses. I would guess the Russian lenses to be the most imprecise.
3. Testing for close focus accuracy should not be done until the infinity focus is correctly indicated in the camera. Infinity adjustment is a horizontal adjustment and effects the close focusing to an equal amount.
4. The most complicated rangefinder adjustment is the close focus because the top plate needs to be removed. It is the "slope" adjustment that controls how much a turn of the focus ring moves the 2 images in the rangefinder. In my opinion, this may be the most stable of the 3.
Proper focus troubleshooting procedure
I humbly offer this troubleshooting guide to isolate the problem. I understand how frustrating this could be.
1. Check infinity focus on all lenses used with the R-D1. If they all indicate the same amount of infinity focus (or not) then the infinity/collimator stop of the lenses are probably correct and you can be assured that its not the lens. In this case the infinity stop is out on the R-D1. Adjustable thru the hot shoe.
2. If one lens is determined to be off in the above example, it will affect close focus and the problem may not be the camera. I would expect Leica lens cams to be highly precise in this regard. I have no expereince with C-V or other lenses. I would guess the Russian lenses to be the most imprecise.
3. Testing for close focus accuracy should not be done until the infinity focus is correctly indicated in the camera. Infinity adjustment is a horizontal adjustment and effects the close focusing to an equal amount.
4. The most complicated rangefinder adjustment is the close focus because the top plate needs to be removed. It is the "slope" adjustment that controls how much a turn of the focus ring moves the 2 images in the rangefinder. In my opinion, this may be the most stable of the 3.
wintoid
Back to film
I got my RD1s back. I immediately redid my test with a different lens (35mm Hexanon). I reproduced the same results (backfocus).
Frustrated, I then ran around the place taking pictures wide open of objects with contrast (e.g. eyes of my daughter's doll). No problems at all.
I now think my test was flawed. I believe the tripod, mounted on carpet, was being pulled back towards me whilst I focused, and pushed forwards when I pressed the shutter. I'm thinking that may have caused the apparent backfocus error
Frustrated, I then ran around the place taking pictures wide open of objects with contrast (e.g. eyes of my daughter's doll). No problems at all.
I now think my test was flawed. I believe the tripod, mounted on carpet, was being pulled back towards me whilst I focused, and pushed forwards when I pressed the shutter. I'm thinking that may have caused the apparent backfocus error
iml
Well-known
Oops
Glad to hear it's all working anyway.
Ian
Glad to hear it's all working anyway.
Ian
Didier
"Deed"
Damn' tripod, damn carpet.... ;-)wintoid said:
D.
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
Hardwood floors rock.
iUser
Established
wintoid said:I got my RD1s back. I immediately redid my test with a different lens (35mm Hexanon). I reproduced the same results (backfocus).
Frustrated, I then ran around the place taking pictures wide open of objects with contrast (e.g. eyes of my daughter's doll). No problems at all.
I now think my test was flawed. I believe the tripod, mounted on carpet, was being pulled back towards me whilst I focused, and pushed forwards when I pressed the shutter. I'm thinking that may have caused the apparent backfocus error
jesus. didn't you think of this?
dreamsandart
Well-known
I've only had my R-D1 for about a couple weeks of use now so I'm just hoping for the best, but so far the focusing seems to be fine with my Leica lenses even at 1.4 ( have not done extensive testing ). I found that with a vintage 5cm Nikkor 1.4 in the close range I do need to back focus a bit and since I know this now its just a matter of being aware and its not a 'problem'. Still need to have the vertical alinement adjusted so the focus is more clear, would like to send it in rather than do it myself (warranty) but don't want to be without the camera for the time just yet.
wintoid
Back to film
iUser said:
Well no, obviously I didn't, hence the post! I'm not a tripod user except on very rare occasions, and I'm also not someone who really likes to run tests like this.
Then again, I've been thinking some more about this, and given that my tests showed back focus of several centimeters at times, it seems unlikely that this could be the cause.
Back to being confused again.
Jim Watts
Still trying to See.
wintoid said:
Wintold,
Are you leaving the central rangefinder spot centred over the point of focus after you achieve what you think is the correct focus point. Remember with the R-D1 the spot remains central, but the framelines correct for parralax, so if you reposition the camera angle to say take in more of the tape measure at 45 degrees and closeup the error will be significant.
Jim
wintoid
Back to film
Hi Jim,
Yes I leave the framing alone after I focus. I am not doing focus-and-recompose.
I actually rather wish I hadn't started testing. It's like letting a genie out of a bottle. Last night's handheld shots, taken wide open at the closest focus distance of my 35mm Hexanon were bang in focus, despite the fact that earlier that night I was tripod mounting the camera and testing the focus with bad results with the same lens. That must point to a bad test, surely.
I think I should kick back, enjoy Christmas, use the camera, and see if I feel the same way in a month. Much less scientific, but a much better indicator of whether I'm happy.
The one important thing I've learned from this thread is that different lenses focus differently. That might seem incredibly obvious to some, but it hadn't occurred to me.
Yes I leave the framing alone after I focus. I am not doing focus-and-recompose.
I actually rather wish I hadn't started testing. It's like letting a genie out of a bottle. Last night's handheld shots, taken wide open at the closest focus distance of my 35mm Hexanon were bang in focus, despite the fact that earlier that night I was tripod mounting the camera and testing the focus with bad results with the same lens. That must point to a bad test, surely.
I think I should kick back, enjoy Christmas, use the camera, and see if I feel the same way in a month. Much less scientific, but a much better indicator of whether I'm happy.
The one important thing I've learned from this thread is that different lenses focus differently. That might seem incredibly obvious to some, but it hadn't occurred to me.
pfogle
Well-known
funnily enough, as with other posters here, my Nokton 50/1.5 seems to be the most consistent lens I've got. Since it's also the one I most want to be accurate, it's the reason I don't mess with the RF adjustments.
In fact, my experience has been that the worst lenses I had (I can't afford Leica glass at the moment ) have been the Kobalux (Avenon) 21mm (front focus) and the Rokkor 40mm (front focus). The others are either OK or within my ability to focus.
I sold the Kobalux, and I keep the 40, which I do love, but use it mainly at f4 or below.
It does seem to be the case for most users that the CV lenses work well on the R-D1, and are more consistent than Leica lenses. Could be down to the way the cams interact.
If it's a critical mission (wide aperture, unrepeatable shots etc) I have to admit, I go for the DSLR
In fact, my experience has been that the worst lenses I had (I can't afford Leica glass at the moment
) have been the Kobalux (Avenon) 21mm (front focus) and the Rokkor 40mm (front focus). The others are either OK or within my ability to focus. I sold the Kobalux, and I keep the 40, which I do love, but use it mainly at f4 or below.
It does seem to be the case for most users that the CV lenses work well on the R-D1, and are more consistent than Leica lenses. Could be down to the way the cams interact.
If it's a critical mission (wide aperture, unrepeatable shots etc) I have to admit, I go for the DSLR
Terao
Kiloran
You know, since I moved from (D)SLR to an RF I really don't care as much as I used to about accurate focus (and metering, and framing). The whole style I've developed is fast and loose as opposed to highly technical and precise. Hendrix instead of Clapton if you will.
I'm just enjoying taking photos and enjoying the fact that the people in them also tend to enjoy them. I've never had so many compliments from people about my shots, which just encourages me to do more and more. People went nuts about my shots at the works Christmas party despite (or perhaps because of) the fact they were wide open, handheld, and at ISO1600 so grainy as hell. I was slightly disappointed with them - needed a couple of stops more light IMO but there you go - there is no accounting for your subject's taste...
I'm just enjoying taking photos and enjoying the fact that the people in them also tend to enjoy them. I've never had so many compliments from people about my shots, which just encourages me to do more and more. People went nuts about my shots at the works Christmas party despite (or perhaps because of) the fact they were wide open, handheld, and at ISO1600 so grainy as hell. I was slightly disappointed with them - needed a couple of stops more light IMO but there you go - there is no accounting for your subject's taste...