Rodinal 1:100

[maddoc]

APX100 @ 100, Rodinal 1:100, 20 minutes, 30sec. agitation then 3 inversions every 3 minutes.

This photo has very good contrast and fine details (judging from my small monitor) I will give your method a try, still have 2 rolls of APX100 and Rodinal 🙂

 

[Pherdinand]

That sounds quite stupid, because, e.g. plus-x and tmax100 need 13 minutes in rodinal in the 1+50 dilution, otherwise it gets underdeveloped.

On the other hands, you've read it on TOYCAMERAS dot com. Everything is possible in toycamera world, and mistakes/imperfections are called artistic approach.

 

[nuada]

I have tested this development method with Ilford PAN 400. I exposed consecutive film frames at EI 50, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400 and developed it in Rodinal 1+200 for 3h. Every frame was scannable, but EI 50 and 100 were bit too soft (due too heavy overexposure), EI 6400 was bit dark and contrasty.

I use this method when taking photos in "difficult" lightning conditions or when shooting high contrast scenes.

I have also developed like this old unknown film, which I found 16 years after it was exposed (Rodinal 1+200 for 1h, after developing it I found out this was Svema 64).

 

[naruto]

APX100 @ 100, Rodinal 1:100, 20 minutes, 30sec. agitation then 3 inversions every 3 minutes.

That's very nice. I usually develop it in 1+50 for 14 mins@20degC. There is a 100ft roll of APX100 coming my way, I must try this then. Thanks. 🙂

 

[Trius]

Trius, that's just a wonderful image and resolution.

Jan: Thanks ... it's at Eastman House, I'll take you sometime when you're here. Your Blad's large, square neg would be a good choice for that scene.

maddoc & naruto: A yellow-green filter was used, which changed the tonal rendition, of course. It's a good combination. Under flat lighting, 1:100 can produce negs with low contrast, but I prefer that to the opposite. It's easier to increase contrast in PS or in the darkroom, in my experience.

The key with Rodinal is to dial way back on agitation compared to other developers and the "standard" (who made it a standard, and when, anyway?) of agitating every 60 or 30 seconds.

 

[dreilly]

Trius,
Would you recommend "dialing back" the agitation with Rodinal in both stand or time/temp developing?
thanks
doug

 

[venchka]

First try at Rodinal 1:100 & semi-stand developing

First try at Rodinal 1:100 & semi-stand developing

Last Friday night I did something new.

I had a sheet of 4x5 Ilford HP5+ that I knew was underexposed by at least 2 stops.

I had a new bottle of Rodinal developer. I had used Rodinal at the normal dilutions and times and liked it a lot. Earlier in the week Jan sent instructions for using Rodinal: 1+100 dilution and semi-stand (minimum agitation) developing for 1 hour.

I figured, "What the heck?" So I loaded the sheet of film and mixed up some Rodinal at 1+100. Following Jan's instructions, I agitated 10 seconds per minute for the first 5 minutes. Let stand 25 minutes. Two inversions and let stand for 30 miuntes. 1 hour total. Stop-Fix-Wash as normal.

I pulled the negative out of tank. It was underexposed worse than I thought. The highlights & mid-tones were there but nothing in the deeper shadows. When the negative dried I tried scanning to see what was there. Rodinal had produced it's usual sharp image. And something else: GRAIN! Lots of it. That's not a bad thing in the right place. What totally blew me away was the presence of nice, tight grain from a 4x5 negative. My other negatives using the same film and either D-76 or Xtol had been virtually grain free. This negative was a pleasant surprise for those times when you gotta have grain.

By the way, Jan cautions that using slow film gives the best results. I'm sure he's right. However, finding a way to get gritty gorgeous grain from a 4x5 negative is something I plan to put to good use. Hopefully. Operator skills permitting. YMMV.

Thanks Jan!

When I can get the negatives into a proper scanner I'll post samples of the same exposure in Rodinal for an hour and Xtol 1:3 for 15:30 minutes.

Cheers!

 

[MichaelM7]

Last Friday night I did something new.

I had a sheet of 4x5 Ilford HP5+ that I knew was underexposed by at least 2 stops.

[...]

Rodinal had produced it's usual sharp image. And something else: GRAIN! Lots of it.

Hi venchka,

it's a known fact that Rodinal is producing enormous grain with HP5+. The reason for this can be seen e.g. here

http://www.photography-forums.com/showpost.php?p=664377&postcount=4

Greetings,

Michael M7

 

[venchka]

Aye, in 35mm for sure. At least with stand development. Back in the late 60s I used Agfa B&W film and Rodinal 1:50 and didn't find the grain to to be obtrusive.

But 4x5? Who knew?

 

[John Robertson]

Tried Jans "Stand" processing with Rodinal 1+100, results show promise, especially as the film I tried was Rollei100 Retro which is not particularly fine grained. I am pleased with the results.😎
see blow.
Foca Standard 35mm Oplar lens.

 

[lewis44]

I had to try this myself. Shot a roll of Ilford XP2 and I developed in Rodinal 1:100. Here is a 100% section of the scan w/o any processing. Scanned @ 4000 dpi with a Nikon LS-5000, no Ice, sharpening, etc. Not to bad.

 

[venchka]

Nice!

Nice!

I had to try this myself. Shot a roll of Ilford XP2 and I developed in Rodinal 1:100. Here is a 100% section of the scan w/o any processing. Scanned @ 4000 dpi with a Nikon LS-5000, no Ice, sharpening, etc. Not to bad.

That's an understatement. Is this 35mm XP2?

John, very well done also. I may need some more Rodinal soon.

 

[John Robertson]

One word of warning!! Be prepared for a surprise when you pour away the developer, mine was DARK grey, I thought the emulsion had dissolved!!! Also use a water rinse instead of stop bath, as it would probably be unuseable afterwards!

 

[jja]

Venchka, can you confirm that you paid no heed to the water temperature when you tried this method? Water taps flow at 80ºF in Austin, and I'm sure it's pretty warm where you live!

 

[John Robertson]

I would stick a couple of ice cubes in and bring temp down to around 70° F

 

[jja]

I would stick a couple of ice cubes in and bring temp down to around 70° F

Yeah, I'll probably do just that and then not worry about a constant temperature thereafter. I'm curious at what point it gets too warm.

 

[lewis44]

That's an understatement. Is this 35mm XP2?

Venchka,
Yep 35mm. I also paid no attention to temperature. Mixed the Rodinal and let it sit for awhile and get to room temp. Probably 68-70 or there abouts. I did not have much hope so just grabbed a roll and shot in the backyard.

Also found, even though it (XP2) is a C-41, if you try and use Digital Ice on it with your scanner, it comes out a mess.

 

[venchka]

68°f

68°f

Venchka, can you confirm that you paid no heed to the water temperature when you tried this method? Water taps flow at 80ºF in Austin, and I'm sure it's pretty warm where you live!

I very carefully and laboriously got the temps of all solutions down to 68F. Actually, I may have started with 67°F developer and it rose a bit during the hour. Ambient temp. in my apartment is 82°F & tap water is 84°F. For Xtol 1:3 I compromised on 75°F solutions. I think the developer may have been 76°F by the time I drained it. I hope this helps!

Cheers!

 

[venchka]

No orange base.

No orange base.

Venchka,
Yep 35mm. I also paid no attention to temperature. Mixed the Rodinal and let it sit for awhile and get to room temp. Probably 68-70 or there abouts. I did not have much hope so just grabbed a roll and shot in the backyard.

Also found, even though it (XP2) is a C-41, if you try and use Digital Ice on it with your scanner, it comes out a mess.

XP2 Super doesn't have the orange base that ICE is looking for. The good news is that it prints better in an enlarger than Kodak BW400CN. Good news & Bad news I guess.

 

[dng88]

This is the second time I heard that a film not supposed to be using B&W chemical but successful get something out of it. Someone has tried Velvia and this time XP2. What a surprise!?