bwcolor
Veteran
I've limited experience with Arista Premium 100, which is rumored to be Plus-X. I followed the P.Lynn Miller Agitate, three taps and then stand. I used 2.5ml/35mmx36 roll for one hour. The negatives look really good, but I'm still working on setting up my scanner, so not sure how they scan. I started out with a four roll stainless tank, with one, or two rolls centered, but since got lazy and have been using two roll tanks for two rolls and so far so good.
kg4nih
Established
C41/BW400CN in Rodinal Stand Development
C41/BW400CN in Rodinal Stand Development
I was snowed in and bored on Sunday. So, thought I'd try developing a roll of BW400CN shot back in November using Rodinal 1:100 Stand. I shot at box speed with my Contax G2. Followed P. Lynn Miller's earliest directions (1 min gentle agitation, 59 min stand) with temp at 68F. Added a pre-rinse and used a water stop. It worked!
C41/BW400CN in Rodinal Stand Development
I was snowed in and bored on Sunday. So, thought I'd try developing a roll of BW400CN shot back in November using Rodinal 1:100 Stand. I shot at box speed with my Contax G2. Followed P. Lynn Miller's earliest directions (1 min gentle agitation, 59 min stand) with temp at 68F. Added a pre-rinse and used a water stop. It worked!
Attachments
Last edited:
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
Some of my latest results with stand (19 - 20 minutes, no agitation after the first minute,) have shown some of the unevenness along the film edge that others have noted. It is only on shots where that area has expanses of highlights (e.g., sky, snow, etc.,) but it's distracting enough that I'm going back to 3 gentle inversions every 3 minutes.
ferider
Veteran
I used Earl's method for the first time yesterday (with Rollei Retro 100, agitate every 3', 20' total) and I'll stick to it 
Indeed. Thanks, Earl !
Indeed. Thanks, Earl !
Last edited:
robklurfield
eclipse
P. Lynn Miller, I just developed my first roll of film in more than 25 years using your method. It's drying right now, but looks pretty good. Neopan 1600 rated at 800. One hour stand in 1:100 Rodinal.
Who knew this could be so easy? Wow!
The only problem is that I need to buy a film scanner now.
Thanks to Lynn and everyone else for the encouragement that this and other similar threads have provided. I can't believe I waited so long to try this again.
Who knew this could be so easy? Wow!
The only problem is that I need to buy a film scanner now.
Thanks to Lynn and everyone else for the encouragement that this and other similar threads have provided. I can't believe I waited so long to try this again.
robklurfield
eclipse
kodak 400CN, 100:1 rodinal 1-hour stand
robklurfield
eclipse
Neopan 1600 @ 800, Rodinal 100:1 1-hour... 20 agitations first minute, then let it sit for 59 minutes or so at around 20c. No muss, no fuss. This is easy. If I could only do a better job controlling dust, scratches and my grimy little fingerprints, I'd be in good shape. Gotta get sme cotton gloves.
robklurfield
eclipse
Trius, listen to JSU's advice. The images I posted above are my first at-home souping in 25 years. If I can get decent results, you can too. This is really easy. I pre-soak. One minute of about 20 inversions. 59 minutes or a little extra at around 70F/20C. A no brainer for me. Can't imagine fiddling around with all kinds of complexity when I get nice negatives from something so simple. Give it another try. You might surprise yourself.
charjohncarter
Veteran
Trius, this is why I (also) stopped 'standing.' I see no difference from stand using 3 inversions every 3-4 minutes.
kg4nih
Established
HC110 H + Rodinal - charjohncarter's Soup
HC110 H + Rodinal - charjohncarter's Soup
So, here are some TRI-X @ 250 using charjohncarter's HC110 H + Rodinal soup and development times. Shot these with a ZI and 50/2 lens. Choose this mix as my base after looking at his posts on RFF.
Thx charjohncarter
Gaylon
HC110 H + Rodinal - charjohncarter's Soup
So, here are some TRI-X @ 250 using charjohncarter's HC110 H + Rodinal soup and development times. Shot these with a ZI and 50/2 lens. Choose this mix as my base after looking at his posts on RFF.
Thx charjohncarter
Gaylon
Attachments
kg4nih
Established
charjohncarter
Veteran
Thanks for the nod, but it is just an experiment. I like it but that doesn't mean everybody will. The great shot of Lily shows how Rodinal works with highlights.
hans voralberg
Veteran
3 inversion per 3-4 minutes for an hour? That's painful!
charjohncarter
Veteran
Then don't use 1+100, use 1+50 or 1+25.
degruyl
Just this guy, you know?
I was poking around a bit and could not find this...
any further information (read: link) would be very interesting.
charjohncarter
Veteran
I'll tell you anything you want about my experiment. PM me but as with everything development you have to know what you are after with your photos. In short, I was after the highlights of Rodinal with the smoothness and shadow of HC-110h.
jjanek
Member
Please help
Please help
Is that on the examples, what Trius talked about two weeks ago - uneven development on pictures with many highlights (snow)? What can I do? This is tri-x rated 400, developed directly after P. Lynn Miller instructions on page 2 of this thread (prewash, 1 minute slow inv., 3 pushes to dislodge bubbles, 59 minutes standing), Jobo 5- reel tank, first and last reels empty, 3 reels with films centered. 10,5 ml of Rodinal (3,5 to roll), 1250 ml distilled water. What can I do? Turn tank upside down in middle?Do 3-4 inversions after 30 minutes? Or could it be better in smaller tank?
Dark motives also have halo, which can be seen when darkened. Pictures are nearly directly from scanner, only bit of contrast added to make problem more visible
Thanks everybody for any help
Janek
Please help
Is that on the examples, what Trius talked about two weeks ago - uneven development on pictures with many highlights (snow)? What can I do? This is tri-x rated 400, developed directly after P. Lynn Miller instructions on page 2 of this thread (prewash, 1 minute slow inv., 3 pushes to dislodge bubbles, 59 minutes standing), Jobo 5- reel tank, first and last reels empty, 3 reels with films centered. 10,5 ml of Rodinal (3,5 to roll), 1250 ml distilled water. What can I do? Turn tank upside down in middle?Do 3-4 inversions after 30 minutes? Or could it be better in smaller tank?
Dark motives also have halo, which can be seen when darkened. Pictures are nearly directly from scanner, only bit of contrast added to make problem more visible
Thanks everybody for any help
Janek
Attachments
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
I used Earl's method for the first time yesterday (with Rollei Retro 100, agitate every 3', 20' total) and I'll stick to it
Indeed. Thanks, Earl !
Those look great, Roland ... and you're very welcome! As I said, I'm going back to agitating every 3 minutes. You absolutely nailed the position of the sun in that first shot.
Mablo
Well-known
Correct me if I'm wrong but this recipe is for 20min.
Jaans
Well-known
I have been shooting and processing my own film for a while now. I have processed hundreds of rolls of TRI-X. My main formula was/is D76 1:1 for TRI-X and Neopan 1600 and Rodinal 1:50 for TRI-X, Neopan 400@ Neopan 1600.
I always managed to obtain consistant results with these dilutions with both developers. And I mean always.
Then I read this thread about stand and Rodinal at 1:100. I decided to mix things up and then started to run into problems with exactly the same effect that your photos are displaying. I also got air bubbles that I have never encountered before. I always bang the tank very hard, but at the end of the day I'm not sold on stand for a number of reasons:
a) Convenience - people argue that it is more convenient, as you tip in the developer and then crack a beer come back in an hour. Well, that is something that you have to remember in an hour. I prefer to stay focused for the 11 minutes at 1:50 and do the job guaranteed.
b) Temperature - well, where I am now in Malaysia the temperature has been outrageous, so even with a water bath the temp is rising too much. I prefer to keep my Rodinal at 19/20C so this is more difficult with an hour development. Coming back to that theme of convenience or lack of it.
c) Highlights - I don't like what it sometimes does to highlights. I shoot under contrasty conditions and this banding effect looks strange and draws attention away from the subject.
d) Air bubbles - I have had these from time to time with stand.
So, I have come to the conclusion from a lesson well learned, that stand is not for me personally. I want guaranteed results for important subjects and there are just too many variables.
SO
My favorite combination is TRi-X at EI:400 for 11 minutes at 19C.
Or TRI-X at EI:200 for 9 1/2 minutes.
Neopan 1600 at EI: 800 at 11 minutes.
I agitate for the first 30 seconds, then 1 slow agitation at the start of every minute after that. I rotate as I invert and have found it unnecessary to agitate twice a minute if you maintain good form, hence preventing uneven development.
BUT
as this thread is about 1:100, I will say that I DO like this combination occassionally, BUT not with stand development. Instead, I develop TRI-X for 20 minutes at EI: 400 with 1 agitation per minute with this dilution. The results are good for high contrast lighting with large stop differences between the shadows and highlights.
In conclusion, if you are having strange unwanted side effects with stand, then just move onto regular agitation cycles, because in my opinion it is overrated and not worth the potential trouble and time.