Rodinal 1:100

Good info...i get such a kick out of the many different schemes for time/dilution/agitation 🙂

I wonder how much of it comes down to habit....

I am stuck hard on the 1:50 with different times based on film speed and type of light. I will eventually try the stand and see what i get but I really dont want to wait that long 🙂

mamiya 7/65
1:50 30 min inverisions first 30 then 3 full inverisons every 5 minutes.
I too am a stickler for the 18' temp
arista edu 400@800
evening, overcast, rain

I am impressed with the shadow detail and even contrast

 
Bump for folks new to stand development.

P. Lynn Miller said:
I have developed close to 200 rolls of film by stand-development in Rodinal. And I no longer use a dilution ratio but a ml/roll formula.

Your 3ml is exactly what I use in the summer, but I have upped the formula to 3.5ml per roll since the weather has cooled down.

So...

135mm - 3 to 3.5ml per roll

120 - 4ml per roll

220 - 8ml per roll

That is my current dilution rates for stand-development.

I have also found the you reduce the risk of uneven development is you use a tank that will allow you keep the reels centered. So one reel in the middle of a Jobo 1520, and etc.

Just the other day I souped 5 rolls of 135 in one of those Jobo extendable tanks in 1900ml of developer with 9ml of Rodinal(yes, I know that is 1:100) with an empty reel on the bottom and empty reel on top so the five reels were centered. In the tank was 1 roll of Hp5+, Efke KB400, and 3 rolls of Tri-X, all pushed to 1600, I left them in the tank for 90 minutes with a swirl at 45 minutes. No sign of uneven development that I could find.



Good to see someone has had success with Fuji emulsions, I have never been happy with any Fuji film I have stand-developed. Stand-development while it sounds simple and fool-proof and for the most, can be temperamental at times.
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Thanks for the reminder ! Just 10 minutes ago I fiished developing a roll of Tri-X 135-36 in 3ml R09 and using a 500ml MaSuKo tank ( Japanese maker). These tanks are designed in a way that there is 2 cm empty space below and above the reels to obtain even development. I developed for hour with initially 20℃ and slow inversions for the first 30 seconds only.

The drying film looks good, looking forward scanning it tomorrow evening.
 
atlcruiser said:
Good info...i get such a kick out of the many different schemes for time/dilution/agitation 🙂

I wonder how much of it comes down to habit....

I am stuck hard on the 1:50 with different times based on film speed and type of light. I will eventually try the stand and see what i get but I really dont want to wait that long 🙂

mamiya 7/65
1:50 30 min inverisions first 30 then 3 full inverisons every 5 minutes.
I too am a stickler for the 18' temp
arista edu 400@800
evening, overcast, rain

I am impressed with the shadow detail and even contrast

Click to expand...

that image looks just great. now i wish you had written smth else instead of arista. smth like trix or neopan 400 or even hp5.
any chance you tried such a developing method on any of the aforementioned films?
 
venchka said:
Read the quote in post #222. It's all good.
Click to expand...

i know the stand dev data, but the image presented was souped in 1+50 rodinal (semistand)

edit> it's all good meaning it should work with other films as well? although if i come to think about it it should :-?
a time for normally exposed films?
 
alinCiortea said:
i know the stand dev data, but the image presented was souped in 1+50 rodinal (semistand)

edit> it's all good meaning it should work with other films as well? although if i come to think about it it should :-?
a time for normally exposed films?
Click to expand...

Don't think in dilution, forget 1+50, 1+100, whatever. As outlined in post #222, use ml / per roll. Stand and semi-stand are based on the fact that the developer exhausts. I normally use 3ml per 35mm roll semi-stand, and it works for a variety of films, as long as exposed at nominal speed. For example, Neopan 400 I expose at around 320. I also mix different films in the same tank. I started with Trius' method, and relaxed it now to use 30min total with one inversion every 3 minutes. Call it semi stand. What matters is that the developer is gone after less than 30 minutes.

Best,

Roland.

PS: Examples:

Neopan 400 (see also my previous posts)

r1-Scan-110514-0020-XL.jpg


Rollei Retro 100 ( = APX 100, see also my previous posts)

1159119935_kCetf-XL.jpg


Neopan 1600 (see also my previous posts):

41-Scan-110521-0017-XL.jpg


Tmax 100:

1090503015_HJAYn-XL.jpg
 
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Rollei Retro 100 ( = APX 100, see also my previous posts)

1159119935_kCetf-XL.jpg
Click to expand...
Yup, that's why I chose the RolleiRetro100 + Rodinal combo, Roland!

This shot could easily fit in with the series of pre-war shots from the Austrian globetrotter lady that Keith scanned earlier this year. Very classic look to it! Tonality is great and that far distance looks like a painted back drop 😱
 
Rodinal 1:100 used to be my test developer kit for unknown films or films were I could not get information on them. Usually 20 minutes, 20-30 sec initial and then every two minutes for the rest. It will give you a good base line to work from and you can usually extrapolate a more precise time.
Some films work better than others, "old" style emulsions like TriX, Double X tend to go a bit "flat" - modern, thin emulsion films work very well with this process.
Good "back up developer" too - and it is surprising how long a 500 ml bottle lasts!
I did some experiments with Neopan 1600, rated at 1000-1200 iso and Rodinal 1:100 with continious agitation - worked very well too - and no excessive grain.
 
I'm pretty excited. This is my first attempt with Rodinal. 1:100 stand development for 1 hr. Agitated the first 15 seconds then left it alone for the remainder of time.

p936931810-4.jpg


p49341996-4.jpg


p329181670-4.jpg
 
A recent one from me: Kodak 8245 "Hawkeye" surveillance film @ 250 EI; Rodinal 4ml in 400ml, 20c, 30 minutes tumble process (2 slow agitations in 30 seconds, 70 seconds rest, repeat for 30 minutes).

BW317_16.jpg
 
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Plaubel Makina 67 + Trix (@ 320)
3mL Rodinal + 647mL water. 60min at 20°C, 10 sec initial agitation, 5 sec agitation at 30min, 5 sec agitation at 60min.




Plaubel Makina 67 + Ilford FP4+ (@ 125)
3mL Rodinal + 647mL water. 60min at 20°C, 10 sec initial agitation, 5 sec agitation at 30min, 5 sec agitation at 60min.


Chamonix 45N-2 & Nikkor W 210mm f5.6 + Shanghai GP ISO100 (@ 100)
10mL Rodinal + 1500mL water. 30min at 28°C, 10 sec initial agitation, 5 sec agitation at 15min, 5 sec agitation at 30min.
 
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ChrisN said:
These look really good. I like the strong contrast - good blacks. What film and EI?
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This was Arista Premium 400 shot at box speed. I just used the meter in my M7 and shot. Many of the frames seemed slightly underexposed. As for the contrast, I bumped it up in photoshop. Overall I got better tones with this development than I have with HC-110 dilution h.

I am thinking I need to swirl the tank or give a gentle inversion at 30 minutes - there were a few frames that were a little funky. Look at the what's happening over the windows in the following picture. This was from the same roll of film. Anyone have an explanation?

p46404565-4.jpg
 
SciAggie said:
... I am thinking I need to swirl the tank or give a gentle inversion at 30 minutes - there were a few frames that were a little funky. Look at the what's happening over the windows in the following picture. This was from the same roll of film. Anyone have an explanation?
Click to expand...

Yep - I found the same when I was experimenting with stand dev - it works for some people and not for others. These days I've abandoned stand dev and changed to regular, but gentle and minimal, inversion (see here).

Here's a more extreme version of yours. The stripes align with the sprocket holes. More agitation stops this happening.
 

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So I am developing for the first time, and bought myself a bottle of rodinal. At the moment I have a couple of rolls of tri-x, hp5+ and neopan 400, all of them rated at 400 iso. Would it be unwise to try stand development for a beginner? Because it seems that besides it taking a longer time there is less chance to make an error in over zealous or too little agitation.
 
Green_Blue said:
So I am developing for the first time, and bought myself a bottle of rodinal. At the moment I have a couple of rolls of tri-x, hp5+ and neopan 400, all of them rated at 400 iso. Would it be unwise to try stand development for a beginner? Because it seems that besides it taking a longer time there is less chance to make an error in over zealous or too little agitation.
Click to expand...

Yes - I'd agree with your thought. Better to stick to the well-tested standard developing routine with 1:50 or 1:25 dilution and the times recommended by the manufacturers. Get that well sorted, giving you reliable negs, then later try the more exotic variations after you have established a standard for comparison.
 
Success!!! Success!!! Oh YEAH BABY!!!!! Success!!!

My first development in 41 years and I owe my success to the forum members who participated in this thread and any of the Rodinal or stand development threads. Decided to go stand vs normal because..well...just because. Figured WTH..might as well give it a try since stand is what gave me the idea that even "I" could do this and get away with it.

I purchased tanks (Paterson) and supplies from Freestyle which arrived today. Compard R09. Developed a roll of Fuji Superia 400 because I didn't think it would come out ...and was the only thing I had ready to go into the tank 🙂 And the prospect of a roll of C-41 as my first roll kinda intrigued me.

Used the following formula which is a hybrid of many other techniques that all of you have shared. I honestly thought the cheap bag, or the Paterson tanks would do me in, but the negs had images on them. Amazing feeling as you know 🙂

Rodinal 1:100 - Stand developing
3.6ml of Rodinal (Compard R09). 450ml of water - Paterson tank volume
Slow gentle twist inversions for 1 minute.
Let stand for 29 min.
Three slow inversions at 30 min.
Stand for 30 more minutes.
Drain developer.
Water stop/Rinse:
Fill tank and invert five times
Fill tank and invert ten times
Fill tank and invert 20 times.
Fill and drain tank in running water for 2-3 minutes.
Fill tank with fixer. 3 Inversions and let stand for five minutes - Ilfo Rapid Fix
2-3 min water rinse - fill and drain
Fill with water and add hypoflo (Legacy flo something). Let stand for 2 minutes.
Drain.
Fill and rinse 3 times.

Rodinal drained out pink so I didn't know what to think 🙂 The negs are drying for 30 min now. I don't get my Epson V500 until tomorrow PM, but may try a scan on a cheap reg scanner in the AM to see how they turned out.

Thanks to ALL of you who helped me overcome the uncertainty and taught me everything I currently know 🙂 The YouTube videos didn't hurt either (Feeling Negative series mostly).

Now I've "souped" my own roll..I feel a much closer connection to the roots of photography vs just taking pics. AND, I can now buy and shoot all the short dated Legacy Pro I can stand and not have to worry bout the developing price.

Thanks again all!! I owe ya big time! 😀

**Day Later** - With an Epson V500 and VueScan, this is what the negs scan like at 3200dpi with default settings... I'm totally okay with this as a starting point -
1stc41devjob.jpg
 
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