Rollei 35S shutter lever "boomerang" removal

[bitfeng]

Dear All,
Sorry for reposting but just haven't heard any reply in the repair forum.
I need some guidance on removal of this Rollei35S' shutter lever "boomerang" (see attached pic - circled in red). In order to loosen the screw, should I try to turn it counterclockwise or clockwise? I tried counterclockwise but it seems to be fairly tight. Should I hold the "boomerang" when loosening the screw or just let it go?
Thank you very much in advance.
Feng 😕

 

[_tom]

Hi,

I have the service manual for the different rollei 35 versions. You´ll find the PDF >>HERE<<.
Go to page 27, on the lower left side yo´ll see the screw and the "boomerang"
(position 50, 51/62 and 66 and 67). And if I understood correctly, the screw is
fixed with a paint (see note symbol on page 4), therefore it blocks when trying
to remove it. The screw is connected with the bladepinion - that should be
accessible from the other side. But I`m not really sure why the bladepinion
here is needed. Sorry, because my rollei is still assembled. It looks like
that the "boomerang" just fix the inner tubus. Btw, the screw should come
off if you twist it counterclockwise. I really hope it helps.

regards thomas

 

[bitfeng]

Thank you very much Thomas. Actually I had checked the service manual. It doesn't mention enything special regarding the screw except for the lock paint so I assumed it should be counterclockwise, but still very tight. As a matter of fact, when I tried to remove this screw on a salvage board for excercise, counterclockwise, the screwhead was deformed but the screw is still tight. I suspect this 35S has a problematic shutter clockwork (not the usual lack of lubrication) and I have a spare shutter board so I want to switch the shutter board (cannot just replace the shutter clockwork because the design is different - holes don't fit). All my other 6 Rollei 35s have easy-to-access screws which fix the lens in place - this means the back cover at the lens rear side has holes (two for 35S and three for 35). This one is different, the two screws are covered by the back cover and are only accessible after the back cover is removed, which requires removal of the boomerang and the screw in the picutre. Anyway a long story. Thank you very much and I will try more.

Hi,

I have the service manual for the different rollei 35 versions. You´ll find the PDF >>HERE<<.
Go to page 27, on the lower left side yo´ll see the screw and the "boomerang"
(position 50, 51/62 and 66 and 67). And if I understood correctly, the screw is
fixed with a paint (see note symbol on page 4), therefore it blocks when trying
to remove it. The screw is connected with the bladepinion - that should be
accessible from the other side. But I`m not really sure why the bladepinion
here is needed. Sorry, because my rollei is still assembled. It looks like
that the "boomerang" just fix the inner tubus. Btw, the screw should come
off if you twist it counterclockwise. I really hope it helps.

regards thomas

 

[Livesteamer]

That screw looks like it may have a thread locking compound like Loctite on it. Would heat from the tip of a soldering iron, carefully applied, help loosen it? Good Luck, Joe

 

[bitfeng]

Thank you Joe. The locking compound is quite brittle. I removed the compound on the salvage shutter board and the screw is still tight. Will keep trying and let you gentlemen know the outcome.

That screw looks like it may have a thread locking compound like Loctite on it. Would heat from the tip of a soldering iron, carefully applied, help loosen it? Good Luck, Joe

 

[farlymac]

How about a tiny drop of acetone, right on the screw? That's loosened a few screws for me. The locking compound is probably into the threads also, and the acetone will follow it down.

PF

 

[bitfeng]

Thank you. A little scary but will try. All I am doing is to try everything on a salvage mockup. So not too bad.

How about a tiny drop of acetone, right on the screw? That's loosened a few screws for me. The locking compound is probably into the threads also, and the acetone will follow it down.

PF

 

[bitfeng]

Aceton didn't help. Never thought such a small screw could be so tight.:bang:

Thank you. A little scary but will try. All I am doing is to try everything on a salvage mockup. So not too bad.

 

[02Pilot]

Never tried it on a camera, but for automotive fasteners, a 50/50 mix of acetone (the real hardware store stuff, not nail polish remover) and automatic transmission fluid is the most effective penetrating oil I've ever tried. There are some new freeze spray penetrants out there as well; might work better than heat (shrinking the screw rather than expanding it).

 

[bitfeng]

Never tried it on a camera, but for automotive fasteners, a 50/50 mix of acetone (the real hardware store stuff, not nail polish remover) and automatic transmission fluid is the most effective penetrating oil I've ever tried. There are some new freeze spray penetrants out there as well; might work better than heat (shrinking the screw rather than expanding it).

Thank you, 02Pilot. I have broken the screw on a salvage Rollei 35. Looks that it needs to be turned counterclockwise like most screws. But now I am afraid to try this on the camera that I actually want to work on.

 

[02Pilot]

From what I can make out from the manual, that's a "cheese-head screw" (a term I'm not familiar with) that gets a threadlocking compound called "Stalok-400" applied to it. I have no idea what that compound is, but it certainly sounds like it might be tough. The only thing I can tell you is that I know there are some threadlockers that require heat to loosen. The tip of a soldering iron, carefully applied, is probably your best first option.

 

[bitfeng]

From what I can make out from the manual, that's a "cheese-head screw" (a term I'm not familiar with) that gets a threadlocking compound called "Stalok-400" applied to it. I have no idea what that compound is, but it certainly sounds like it might be tough. The only thing I can tell you is that I know there are some threadlockers that require heat to loosen. The tip of a soldering iron, carefully applied, is probably your best first option.

Thank you, 02Pilot. I will think about it - I've already lost my practice piece so gotta be careful. On most of Rollei 35Ss, removal of the lens does not require removal of this boomerang since screw holes were made on the rear side cover for easy lens removal. Don't why Rollei didn't make these screw holes for this 35S. :bang: