Rome!

gdmcclintock

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Finally I am going to Rome for 10 days in April! I plan to take my Rolleiflex and 50 rolls of Tri-X, plus a digital camera and maybe my M6.

We will be staying in an apartment in a Roman neighborhood, off the tourist track. Any advice will be appreciated.
 
Advice: wear good shoes.... there's going to be plenty of walking. Enjoy... Have fun! It's like a living, breathing museum...
 
Beer is surprisingly expensive, whereas wine (an average vino della casa) is quite reasonable.

Walk as much as possible and always have your camera ready - Romans are stylish and confident people and there's often good opportunities for street photography shots.

The streets are quite narrow in the centre, away from the grand boulevards, so a 28mm is useful.

Many of the greatest artworks remain in the churches for which they were commissioned - best way to see them. Make a point of seeing all the Caravaggios in Rome.

Go to San Giovanni Laterano to see the papal church before St Peters was built.

You'll have a great time: it's a fantastic city.
 
I was in Rome last fall for 5 days. I second the comments about shoes and seeing the Caravaggio. The bus system is quite good which can save some walking and can also be an interesting spot to shoot from (if you can get a window seat!) I found Rome to be most interesting for shooting first thing in the morning when Romans are on their way to work and the tourists are less dominant. The Campo de Fiori for instance, which is a tourist trap from the lunch hour on, is a great spot for a morning espresso, some people watching and some shooting. There are 2 or 3 spots to get film in central Rome if packing it is a problem.
 
My wife and I and our then-14-month-old son went to Rome for two weeks this past summer; my first time there. The most incredible place I have ever been. As was stated earlier, the whole city is a museum. Eat well, try things you may not otherwise, wear comfortable shoes, make sure you don't overlook the many churches, most all of which are stunning in their own way, and have fun. There is so much to see, but 10 days is plenty of time to see it without rushing. Take tons of photographs, but not to the point where you miss the beauty that is all around you. A lens can't capture it all.

I took my Leica CL and my M2, along with 21/4, 40/2, and 90/4 lenses. I figured I would burn through film and brought 30 rolls, about half Tri-X and the half a mix of slide, Ektar, Portra. I tried like hell to shoot as much film as I could, I even took a bunch of early-morning and late-night shoots by myself, yet I only went through 14 rolls. Looking back, I am glad I didn't force myself to shoot more than I did. It was just enough (for me).

12 of the 14 rolls I shot were color. I never imagined that would have been the case, but I realized as soon as I got there that, in my opinion, Rome most of the time was too beautiful, too colorful, for black and white, and the b&w I did shoot was mostly when I needed Tri-x for its speed in low-light settings. But that was my impression. You may see it differently. I brought a little Canon point-and shoot digital, which was useful for quick snapshots, though it didn't see much action.

I was happy with my lens choices. I used the 21 a lot, possibly too much, but Rome's tight quarters, church interiors, and narrow streets really called for it. I got plenty of use out of my 40, too. The 90 Elmar rarely left my bag, but I'm glad I had it for the few instances I wanted it for.

Sorry for the play-by-play of my trip. It's still so fresh in my mind, and I'd spent so much time planning all of my gear choices ahead of time--not to mention it's such a terrific place--that I can't help but get excited! You'll have a great time, for sure. Just watch your gear. Seriously. It's crowded and chaotic and if you're not paying attention you will find someone's hand digging through your bag.
 
I live in Rome since a was born 37 years ago...so i can tell you will find great place of course to shoot pictures, most of them are very well know but everytime you will take a shot they will look different...I mean in the last 15 i have shoot pictures of Vatican, Colosseum and all the other "classic" place you all know in Rome...and everytime they look different, maybe the lens, the light, the moment of the day or just my feeling of the moment to chose the frame...i don't know but this is amazing ^_^
Anyway prepare yourself to be in the most caotic city of europe, with the worst underground of the world...a terrible and slow bus service...traffic everywhere and at every hours...and with a lot of people walking in the center of the city for all day....always.
I have never got problems taking pictures in my city, but of course for me it's different...i'm roman, however like in every country of the world...the less you look like a stupid turist with your big plastic reflex on your neck....the less problems you will have with the "indigenous" ;)

Have a good trip


Plus-X - Tevere 2 di Millus1974, su Flickr
 
Thanks, it was the classic "last shot" of the roll, i start walking in the morning with a summicron and some plus-x and so during the evening i was in trouble...
 
Re: film
Last time I was there I only brought an M6 + 35mm skopar... and plenty of Tri-X & HP5. Loved these two for their safety-net/forgivability (mainly with my exposure errors).
Booked to go there this coming October.... I'm itching already!
Again - have fun!
 
I'm going to be there in 2 weeks - can't wait. all B&W for me. perhaps 2 bodies w/35mm lens and 50 or 85
Subway not too bad when I was there last - beware of thieves and pickpockets , simple big city precautions.
 
Thanks to everyone for the good advice!

Sounds like the Rolleiflex for B&W and the Leica for color. I am an early riser and expect to see the city in that light.
 
Take lots of film--more that you think you'll need. Wear shoes that you can walk miles and miles in each day.

When in churches, don't forget to look up.

Wide angle lens is a must. My ZM 25mm Biogon and 15mm Super Wide Heliar got good work outs in Italy.

Take a fast lens for when you are walking around a night. Lots of great photo opportunities after the sun goes down.

Church_Ceiling_2.jpg


2011-6626-SEP_Edit.jpg


2011-6886_HDR_PS_Layers-Edit.jpg
 
Thanks. I had a great time shooting in Rome.

That Colosseum shot was taken withthe Voigtlander 15mm Super Wide Heliar. I have another from the side that is a 11-shot panorama using the ZM 35mm C-Biogon. The above Colosseum shot and the pano were both were taken with the M9, HDR created with HDR Efex Pro, and then converted with Silver Efex Pro 2.

Forgot to mention in my first post: take a small beanbag to support your camera. In many places a tripod is too unruly. A beanbag--on a church pew when shooting straight up to the ceiling--comes in handy.

Jeff
 
I also second the idea of bringing more film than you think you need. If you run out, I don't think it's easy to find good quality film in the Eternal City. I might be wrong, but I didn't see any -- except for warm, expensive, and probably expired Kodak Gold at the Spanish Steps.

The Villa Borghese is a beautiful park in central Rome. I found it to be a nice break from the constant sensory barrage of the city ... it's not far from the mindless, jostling crowds of all the major sights. It has beautiful walking paths and elegant cedars. The nearby museum is excellent as well. Here's a sample taken with my Bessa R3A, CV 21/4, and Kodak Ektar 100.

4976167093_fe3228fb12_z.jpg
 
The Right Balances

The Right Balances

My advice has nothing to do with photography, but it might be useful to you. I've been to Rome a few times. I find that three days is enough to enjoy Rome as a normal tourist. By the fifth day, if I'm still in tourist mode, I get sick of it. I feel like screaming, "Alright! Enough! I get it: Rome was a big deal about two thousand years ago." It is so spectacular and there's so much to see, it's just sensory overload. With that in mind, I recommend not attacking the city with an attitude that you have to see every thing as quickly as possible. I also recommend being open to small things. Maybe hit something big once a day and then a couple of smaller things. Go to the park and have a picnic. Sit in a bookstore or a coffee shop longer than you might when on vacation. Don't do the guided tours or the bus tours. Basically, try to find the right balance of a relaxing vacation and sightseeing that works for you.

Regarding food, many of the restaurants abuse tourists: they overcharge and they don't give you very good food in exchange. There are excellent restaurants, but you have to know which ones. If you want to keep your cost down, look for a supermarket. Just say to a local, "Doe-veh un super-mare-ka'-to?" There's always one close by, usually a Punto chain store with green signs. If you get some bread, you can ask the people in the deli section to make you sandwiches. They don't charge extra for that. Two people can get a fresh lunch from a supermarket for under 5 euros and eat at a park bench by the Colosseum, or you can eat not very good food at a restaurant for 30 euros and feel cheated. I recommend saving food money for dinner time. Use a guide book to find a good restaurant, putting the 25 euros you saved on lunch towards whatever you might spend for dinner. Oh, and buy your bottled water or other cold drinks and snacks from the supermarket. A bottle of iced tea in the supermarket is about a euro. It's € 3.50 on the street. If you're careful and clever, and weigh out your options, you can make better use of your food budget with grocery stores.

As for what to see, besides the usual things, I'd recommend going to the Santa Maria degli Angeli Basilica (i.e., St. Mary of the Angels Basilica). It's a large church near the Piazza della Repubblica. To start, there's an excellent fountain in that plaza in front of the church. Inside, the church is huge and majestic--but take time to appreciate the outer doors before entering. It has classic and creative architecture, paintings, and statues. It also has some marvelous modern statues; a nice balance of classics and modern pieces. Every time I go to Rome, I always go there first, in case I run out of time later.
 
I haven't been there for 25 years but Russell's advice seems spot on. It is like there are two Romes, the one for us and the real Rome. That Rome is well hidden. An aperture in the wall of a busy thoroughfare, an aperture barely the width of a slight man's shoulders, leads to an open space with routine shops and ordinary people going about their daily routine.

Another reason not to 'do' too many museums at once is that just being on the street in Rome, looking from one hill across to another is to begin to understand its moniker, 'the eternal city.' I'm sorry I have still not been back and must go again soon.
 
Just to give an help to all the people traveling in Rome with an analog camera...there is a little shop in the center (really close to the Vatican and an Underground Station) specialized in Film and Analog Photography, it will be safer to buy film there, than bring with you 50 rolls of film in your hand baggage...at least in my opinion.

http://www.ars-imago.com/

Of course i'm not connected with the shop, i'm just an happy customer...and if you need an used camera, a lens or just a cap, take a look to this other shop, it's just 5 minute walking from the other one, they have a good used section and film too...

http://www.sabatini.ws/

Enjoy the trip
Emiliano
 
+1 what Russel said. I felt very much the same way. After 3-4 days in Rome, I started to get saturated with the touristy stuff. My family and I actually found relief in leaving the center of the city and going to more out-of-the-way places.

Of course, leaving Rome altogether and getting out into the smaller towns and cities is a different experience altogether.

+1 to Emiliano for the info about buying film! I wish I had known about those shops before I went to Rome.
 
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