Arni
Newbie
I am about to decide weather to purchase a used X pan with 45 mm lens.
Does anyone have experience scanning the neg/pos with the Epson V 750 pro or similar quality scanner, how was the result compared to and enlargment the ususal way.
Does anyone have experience scanning the neg/pos with the Epson V 750 pro or similar quality scanner, how was the result compared to and enlargment the ususal way.
didjiman
Richard Man
I don't use a flat bed, but a LS-8000 with the glass carrier. It's an expensive setup but it's very much worth it.
S
Simon Larbalestier
Guest
I have scanned them on the V750 pro with the Betterscanning MF holder and AN glass
results are ok with Focal Blade's sharpening plug-in for CS3 but i prefer scanning them on the Nikon 5000 as two parts and merging in CS3 - time consuming but i prefer the results much deeper blacks. If i had more cash i'd snap up the 9000 with glass carrier.
I make prints on an Leitz 2c and the prints are beautiful, the 45mm lens is very sharp even at F4.0.
results are ok with Focal Blade's sharpening plug-in for CS3 but i prefer scanning them on the Nikon 5000 as two parts and merging in CS3 - time consuming but i prefer the results much deeper blacks. If i had more cash i'd snap up the 9000 with glass carrier.
I make prints on an Leitz 2c and the prints are beautiful, the 45mm lens is very sharp even at F4.0.
Last edited by a moderator:
jan normandale
Film is the other way
Simon, have you ever done a 'comparison' on the OE carrier versus the Betterscanning carrier. I've looked over the website and I'm not seeing a big difference on the net. I'm wondering if screen resolution is downplaying the final scanned image results between the two
S
Simon Larbalestier
Guest
Jan i did a comparison back in the UK and found a visible difference when examining a 200 MB file - can't really show this with a 900 pixel 72dpi screen image. The main difference was that the height of Doug's MF holder is minutely adjustable in eight places (i think? don't have it here with me in Bangkok) This plus the AN glass helped to keep the film flatter and it required less sharpening in CS3. For what i need the supplied OE holders are just useless IMHO.
Johnmcd
Well-known
Arni,
I'm also thinking of buying a used Xpan. But before I got serious I need to see how it scans. A mate (who has two Xpan's) lent me a tranny and I did a test today on how they scan with my Minolta Scan Multi Pro using the 6x7 glass carrier.
I am really pleased with the scans and I think on the strength of that I will continue my search for a good used Xpan (or Fuji). I have attached two 100% crops with no post processing at all and the full original resized.
The Scan Multi Pro isn't that pricey if you can find one. I think I was lucky and managed to pick up one with little use for $800 AUS (which I think is about $2.50 US).
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
John
I'm also thinking of buying a used Xpan. But before I got serious I need to see how it scans. A mate (who has two Xpan's) lent me a tranny and I did a test today on how they scan with my Minolta Scan Multi Pro using the 6x7 glass carrier.
I am really pleased with the scans and I think on the strength of that I will continue my search for a good used Xpan (or Fuji). I have attached two 100% crops with no post processing at all and the full original resized.
The Scan Multi Pro isn't that pricey if you can find one. I think I was lucky and managed to pick up one with little use for $800 AUS (which I think is about $2.50 US).
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
John
Attachments
jimmygcreative
brassing w/silver inside
FYI I have a very nice xpan forsale Item number: 130135748877 on ebay
semrich
Well-known
I'm about to buy an Xpan, can I scan the negatives on the Nikon cool scan 5000?
S
Simon Larbalestier
Guest
semrich said:
Yes you can if you scan as two images and merge in CS3/CS2. Make sure the exposure is the same for both and that you scan the full image area. As i said above I prefer this method to scanning on the V750. Once cropped to size it will yield an approx 207+ MB file if scanned as a 16 Bit RGB TIFF.
semrich
Well-known
Simon- Thanks for your help, and sorry that I didn't pick up that you had already answered my question further up the thread, I must have been skimming to fast.
Now if I decide to go for the Xpan I'll have to learn how to combine two images in CS3.
Now if I decide to go for the Xpan I'll have to learn how to combine two images in CS3.
S
Simon Larbalestier
Guest
In CS3 it is straight forward - go to file - Automate - photomerge- select the two files using the browser - i choose to use "automatic" then run the action. Then crop the image to loose the excess waste ( which is why it is good to scan the entire frame). I then flatten the layers and save it as a master original scan file 16 bit TIFF.
semrich
Well-known
Simon - Thank you for pointing me to the action, I do appreciate it and all work flow barriers are down for my getting the Xpan, I'm just not sure if the 30 second limitation on bulb is enough of a turn off for me to pass up on the purchase.
I am curious about how I would put it to use, like it would force me to decide to take it out with a specifc subject in mind rather than just walking about and seeing what turns up. I've got until 5:00 o'clock Thursday to decide.
I am curious about how I would put it to use, like it would force me to decide to take it out with a specifc subject in mind rather than just walking about and seeing what turns up. I've got until 5:00 o'clock Thursday to decide.
S
Simon Larbalestier
Guest
semrich said:
Xpan II and Fuji TX-2 go to 540 secs on B setting.
xpandebt@9%
BLARP?!
I once heard of someone getting an "infinite" bulb exposure with the XPan by combining the max bulb (9 min) with the multiple exposure setting. I have not tried this yet, but I'm curious enough to do so in the relatively near future. The logistical question in my mind is: if the method works, the new limiting factor becomes the batteries? I've found the batteries die quickly when using the bulb exposure since the shutter is held open by battery power.
The other question on my mind is: if the method works, and one is shooting stars in the background, will the star trails be dashed? Anyway, I'm curious to try because I've always wanted to make a celestial circle photo, and this is my only camera. Besides, if it's possible, just imagine how cool this will look with my 30mm lens!
For the record, I have the V700, and I think the results are great. However I am far from experienced, and haven't given it a whole lot of use yet. It's part of the 9% bill, too.
The other question on my mind is: if the method works, and one is shooting stars in the background, will the star trails be dashed? Anyway, I'm curious to try because I've always wanted to make a celestial circle photo, and this is my only camera. Besides, if it's possible, just imagine how cool this will look with my 30mm lens!
For the record, I have the V700, and I think the results are great. However I am far from experienced, and haven't given it a whole lot of use yet. It's part of the 9% bill, too.
Andrew Sowerby
Well-known
Hello all,
If I might piggy-back on this thread ...
I've got a Horizon S3, which produces 24x58mm negs. I'm looking at getting an inexpensive film scanner that can do 35mm and medium format. Particularly, I'm looking at the Epson 4490. Does anyone here have any experience scanning pano negs with this scanner? Is it possible to scan the entire image in one pass or will I have to stitch two scans together (something I'm trying to avoid).
Thanks for any advice!
-Andrew
If I might piggy-back on this thread ...
I've got a Horizon S3, which produces 24x58mm negs. I'm looking at getting an inexpensive film scanner that can do 35mm and medium format. Particularly, I'm looking at the Epson 4490. Does anyone here have any experience scanning pano negs with this scanner? Is it possible to scan the entire image in one pass or will I have to stitch two scans together (something I'm trying to avoid).
Thanks for any advice!
-Andrew
Finder
Veteran
xpandebt@9% said:
With a 30mm lens, the stars should start trailing within the first minute of the exposure. Stars move at 15 degree per hour. So if you want long sweeping star trails, you need very long exposures. Your battery consumption is going to be a major problem. Mechanical shutters are best for this type of work.
Bryce
Well-known
Blarp!?
I can't answer your question about whether the star trails will have dashes. You could find out by maybe running the shutter with no or worthless film and seeing whether it opens and shuts every 9 seconds or whatever.
The 30mm lens may well let you down for star trails; short lenses make point light sources appear dimmer than longer ones.
Of course, you should really answer these questions with an actual trial and post your results so the rest of us can see!
I can't answer your question about whether the star trails will have dashes. You could find out by maybe running the shutter with no or worthless film and seeing whether it opens and shuts every 9 seconds or whatever.
The 30mm lens may well let you down for star trails; short lenses make point light sources appear dimmer than longer ones.
Of course, you should really answer these questions with an actual trial and post your results so the rest of us can see!