Scanning with a digital camera

Carriage said:
Huss, you often seem to have a bluish cast to your scans. Do you prefer it that way or does it not appear that way to you? For example I prefer the below version (admittedly on my screen)

28116492768_933de0f28c_b_bal.jpg
Click to expand...


Hi Carriage!
I actually like it that way, but that's the beauty of this process, you can edit it to taste.
If you look at my version, the blue on the flag is much richer and seeing the flag is the primary object in the image - which is why it is the only thing in focus - it's how I wanted it.

:)
 
Noblex 135 Sport, Fuji C200, D850

I just received my Lomo Digitiliza film holder. This thing is fantastic as it uses magnets to hold the film flat and can be used for any 35mm format. I wish I knew about this years ago!! I also bought a 120 one which can be used for any 120 format (6x4.5, 6x6, 6x9 etc)

 
1:1 crop from left corner, showing how sharp the Noblex 135 is (and of course the D850 scan!), and how flat the Lomo Digitiliza holds the film:

 
Hi Huss

So, did you just place the Digitaliza on a light box and then use your normal digital-camera-as-scanner setup?

(Sorry, but I can't remember what that setup is...)


Huss said:
Noblex 135 Sport, Fuji C200, D850

I just received my Lomo Digitiliza film holder. This thing is fantastic as it uses magnets to hold the film flat and can be used for any 35mm format. I wish I knew about this years ago!! I also bought a 120 one which can be used for any 120 format (6x4.5, 6x6, 6x9 etc)

Click to expand...
 
sleepyhead said:
Hi Huss

So, did you just place the Digitaliza on a light box and then use your normal digital-camera-as-scanner setup?

(Sorry, but I can't remember what that setup is...)
Click to expand...

Hi 'Sleepyhead'!

Yes, when I use the Digitlizas, I put them on a light box (I use an LED light panel I bought off Amazon for $25), and have the camera on a copy stand.
Simple as that.
 
Nikon F3P, Lomo Petzval 58 1.9 bucket control lens, Fuji C200, Lomo Digitliza film holder, D850 scan...



(of course I could have just scanned the single image, but I'm having fun here!)
 
One thing I have noticed is the importance of the orientation of the film. Many sources of the web said to have the emulsion side facing up/the camera, with shiny side underneath. So the image would be reversed (the frame #s on the film would be backwards).

This is wrong.

Orient the film so it looks the right way up, the way you would view it normally. With the frame #s appearing correctly. Otherwise you may get what looks like flaring in dark areas of the film.
 
First examples using the Nikon ES-2 film copier kit. Loading the film strip holder is a bit fiddly, trying to get things lined up as the film is free floating until you close it. Nikon could have learned a lesson from Lomo - their DIGITILAZA film holder has a lip that you slide the film under.
One big advantage over the old ES-1 holder is that it is easier to use more of the sensor area. My ES-1 copies had pretty wide margins, the ES-2 uses far more of the surface area:

Leica M4-2, Summaron 35 2.5 w/ goggles, Fuji C200, D850/ES-2 scan

 
Same as above, but converted to B&W. This is actually why I am finding it hard to shoot real B&W film (which my freezer is full of!). I really like the results I get by just converting my colour C41 film, and of course you then have the flexibility of having that option.



There actually is more detail in the deep shadows but I prefer it processed like this. Otherwise it becomes kinda digital/hdr-looking.
 
Zenit TTL with light leaks, Zenitar 50 1.7, Fuji C200, D850 using the digitizer function as these were just test images to see what was up with the Zenit - now I know! Light leaks!

I did a slight colour temp correction in LR as the digitizer makes everything blue-ish, and reduced the saturation a little.

 
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