Scanning with a digital camera

[Ronald M]

Camera-scan friends -

What are you doing when your camera-scan produces too much detail, when the grain shows too much? Comparing some of my camera-scans to lab scans (from mid 2000's), I like their smoothness better than what I'm getting today, especially for skies and faces.



Do you smooth, and how? ... in Lightroom? ... in PS?

Example: 1:1 from 6MPx lab-scan in 2002, 1:2 of 24MPx camera-scan today. From a 2002 slide.

Photoshop noise reduction should reduce grain. NR is opposite of sharpening. Also try gaussian blur. Use a mask to isolate to the areas you want. Grey rather than black will let some NR thru, but not all.

There used to be a program called grain surgery. Still available?

 

[Huss]

I found it difficult to focus the negative accurately, and now use a dedicated scanner.

Live view in magnified view. Use tripod mode.

Exactly. I use Live View and an AF macro lens and it nails focus on the film grain in an instant.
When I first started out, I tried to focus in regular mode through the VF, as if I was taking a standard photo, and it was impossible to get it sharp. Live View is key.

 

[css9450]

Indeed. I focus manually but use the magnified Live View.

I also find having a tilting or articulating screen on the camera adds a lot to the ergonomic factor, vs. hunched over all the time.

 

[Emile de Leon]

Just getting to grips with the A7. So far really impressed with the handling and features.

Yes..a good choice..and lightweight too..

I’ve mounted an old LTM lens using a M39 adapter and all’s good. What’s not so good is I can’t figure out the best way to get my enlarger lenses working as macro lenses.

You will need some spacers..if you have a bunch of 39mm filters you can take the glass out of them or get a DOORX or 2 to fit your needs..
Or a BEOON which has the spacers in a lot of different sizes..
You will need a focusing type adapter..not the one that doesn't focus..these are available for cheep on Ebay..
I used the M to screwmount adapter..and mount the lens to that..and mount that to the focusing M to E mount adapter..for the camera..you will focus from the adapter.

 

[FujiLove]

Yes..a good choice..and lightweight too..

You will need some spacers..if you have a bunch of 39mm filters you can take the glass out of them or get a DOORX or 2 to fit your needs..
Or a BEOON which has the spacers in a lot of different sizes..
You will need a focusing type adapter..not the one that doesn't focus..these are available for cheep on Ebay..
I used the M to screwmount adapter..and mount the lens to that..and mount that to the focusing M to E mount adapter..for the camera..you will focus from the adapter.

Thanks Emile - that makes sense. Any idea roughly what length extension tube I would need? I presume a focussing helicoid would take care of both the spacing and focussing if it was wide enough?

 

[dourbalistar]

Thanks Emile - that makes sense. Any idea roughly what length extension tube I would need? I presume a focussing helicoid would take care of both the spacing and focussing if it was wide enough?

As Emile mentioned, the Leica BEOON comes with a set of extension tubes that you can mix and match. I can measure them when I get home later tonight.

Alternatively, if you use a copy stand in place of the BEOON, I think you could probably source a set of m39 extension tubes.

p.s. I also use the Voigtlander V-ME close focus adapter, which has a small close focus helical (4mm of extension). Useful for smaller adjustments, and with my APS-C digicam, gets me a little closer to filling the frame.

 

[Emile de Leon]

Thanks Emile - that makes sense. Any idea roughly what length extension tube I would need? I presume a focussing helicoid would take care of both the spacing and focussing if it was wide enough?

This is a good one..this will allow you to account for the variables in negative bend...and focusing using an enlarging lens..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IY9U59E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Enlarging lenses have different nodal points..but for the Focotar-2 I use..I use about 60mm of extension..not including the focusing adapter.

 

[dourbalistar]

The BEOON comes with 4 different tube/rings, labelled A-B-C-D. I don't have digital calipers, so eyeballing with a ruler:
A = ~9mm
B = ~9mm
C = ~17mm
D= ~34mm

According to the instructions, a different combination of rings will get you different reproduction ratios:
1:3 = A
1:2 = A+B
1:1.5 = A+C
1:1 = A+D

More BEOON info here:
https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/276151-beoon-advice-please-functional-checks-prior-to-purchase/

 

[FujiLove]

^^^ thanks guys, that's all really helpful. I'm off to source some tubes and adapters!

 

[ColSebastianMoran]

Indeed. I focus manually but use the magnified Live View.

I also find having a tilting or articulating screen on the camera adds a lot to the ergonomic factor, vs. hunched over all the time.

I second these points.

Manual focus, stiff, solid rig so nothing is moving.
Focus peaking. Magnified live view, still see just a bit of f-peaking.
Then even more magnified live view, final check

Tilting screen a huge advantage.

I prefer the camera LCD. Tried tethered, but that doesn't show the focus peaking, so not as effective for me.

(Sony gear. A7, A6000, etc.)

 

[ColSebastianMoran]

Photoshop noise reduction should reduce grain. NR is opposite of sharpening. Also try gaussian blur. Use a mask to isolate to the areas you want. Grey rather than black will let some NR thru, but not all.

There used to be a program called grain surgery. Still available?

Thanks. Grain Surgery was acquired by Adobe and seems to have disappeared. Perhaps it's built-into Despeckle.

Here's a 100% screen shot of a very grainy late 60's Kodachrome slide, camera-scan at 24MPx with very good copy lens. What to do with this grain to make a modern cleaner image?
- Capture at 6MPx or with a lesser lens?
- PS Noise... Reduce Noise doesn't do much at all
- PS Noise... Despeckle filter helps a little bit
- Nik Dfine is a little better
- Gaussian Blur, then sharpen?

Any suggestions? Seriously, some of these slides looked better with lesser scans.

 

[Huss]

Camera-scan friends -

What are you doing when your camera-scan produces too much detail, when the grain shows too much? Comparing some of my camera-scans to lab scans (from mid 2000's), I like their smoothness better than what I'm getting today, especially for skies and faces.

Do you smooth, and how? ... in Lightroom? ... in PS?

Example: 1:1 from 6MPx lab-scan in 2002, 1:2 of 24MPx camera-scan today. From a 2002 slide.

Something else is up because the camera scan's colours are off. Look at the hat.
It's almost like it's trying to show too much dynamic range.

 

[Huss]

Brooks Plaubel Veriwide 100, Kodak E100G, super ultra crappy scan using my iphone 8 and dropping the film onto a light table, with nothing holding it flat!
I just wanted to see how it looks before I whip out the Z7 and copy stand.

 

[Huss]

1:1 ish crop from the iphone 8 scan. Looks kinda ok considering this was zero effort...

 

[Huss]

Hasselblad H1, 50mm 3.5, Fuji Velvia 50, Z7 scan

 

[Huss]

Hasselblad H1, 50mm lens, Fuji NPS160, Nikon Z7 scan

Shoot being paused while Pepe gives the model a kiss.

 

[Huss]

Mockba5 , Kodak TMY 400, Z7 scan

 

[johannielscom]

Ha Huss, seems you really got that camera scan thing down, excellent!

I gave up myself and for the little amount of 135 film I still do, returned to and older Polaroid Sprintscan 35...

The Canon Auto Bellows setup with macr lens included I put up in the classifieds hasn't stirred any attention so far so I might just shelve it and try camera scanning again this winter or so...

 

[Larry Cloetta]

Mockba5 , Kodak TMY 400, Z7 scan

Nice shot, regardless of how it was digitized.

 

[Greyscale]

Sony A7ii scan, concave Ultron 50/1.8, Panatomic X Aero


Icarex 35-S, Ultron 50/1.8, Panatomic X by Mike Novak, on Flickr