Scanning with a digital camera

ColSebastianMoran said:
Camera-scan friends -

What are you doing when your camera-scan produces too much detail, when the grain shows too much? Comparing some of my camera-scans to lab scans (from mid 2000's), I like their smoothness better than what I'm getting today, especially for skies and faces.



Do you smooth, and how? ... in Lightroom? ... in PS?

Example: 1:1 from 6MPx lab-scan in 2002, 1:2 of 24MPx camera-scan today. From a 2002 slide.

020600-Tuscany-Box2-01-LabScan-vs-CameraScan-C.png
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Photoshop noise reduction should reduce grain. NR is opposite of sharpening. Also try gaussian blur. Use a mask to isolate to the areas you want. Grey rather than black will let some NR thru, but not all.

There used to be a program called grain surgery. Still available?
 
ptpdprinter said:
I found it difficult to focus the negative accurately, and now use a dedicated scanner.
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Ronald M said:
Live view in magnified view. Use tripod mode.
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Exactly. I use Live View and an AF macro lens and it nails focus on the film grain in an instant.
When I first started out, I tried to focus in regular mode through the VF, as if I was taking a standard photo, and it was impossible to get it sharp. Live View is key.
 
Indeed. I focus manually but use the magnified Live View.

I also find having a tilting or articulating screen on the camera adds a lot to the ergonomic factor, vs. hunched over all the time.
 
Just getting to grips with the A7. So far really impressed with the handling and features.
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Yes..a good choice..and lightweight too..
I’ve mounted an old LTM lens using a M39 adapter and all’s good. What’s not so good is I can’t figure out the best way to get my enlarger lenses working as macro lenses.
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You will need some spacers..if you have a bunch of 39mm filters you can take the glass out of them or get a DOORX or 2 to fit your needs..
Or a BEOON which has the spacers in a lot of different sizes..
You will need a focusing type adapter..not the one that doesn't focus..these are available for cheep on Ebay..
I used the M to screwmount adapter..and mount the lens to that..and mount that to the focusing M to E mount adapter..for the camera..you will focus from the adapter.
 
Emile de Leon said:
Yes..a good choice..and lightweight too..

You will need some spacers..if you have a bunch of 39mm filters you can take the glass out of them or get a DOORX or 2 to fit your needs..
Or a BEOON which has the spacers in a lot of different sizes..
You will need a focusing type adapter..not the one that doesn't focus..these are available for cheep on Ebay..
I used the M to screwmount adapter..and mount the lens to that..and mount that to the focusing M to E mount adapter..for the camera..you will focus from the adapter.
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Thanks Emile - that makes sense. Any idea roughly what length extension tube I would need? I presume a focussing helicoid would take care of both the spacing and focussing if it was wide enough?
 
FujiLove said:
Thanks Emile - that makes sense. Any idea roughly what length extension tube I would need? I presume a focussing helicoid would take care of both the spacing and focussing if it was wide enough?
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As Emile mentioned, the Leica BEOON comes with a set of extension tubes that you can mix and match. I can measure them when I get home later tonight.

Alternatively, if you use a copy stand in place of the BEOON, I think you could probably source a set of m39 extension tubes.

p.s. I also use the Voigtlander V-ME close focus adapter, which has a small close focus helical (4mm of extension). Useful for smaller adjustments, and with my APS-C digicam, gets me a little closer to filling the frame.
 
Thanks Emile - that makes sense. Any idea roughly what length extension tube I would need? I presume a focussing helicoid would take care of both the spacing and focussing if it was wide enough?
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This is a good one..this will allow you to account for the variables in negative bend...and focusing using an enlarging lens..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IY9U59E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Enlarging lenses have different nodal points..but for the Focotar-2 I use..I use about 60mm of extension..not including the focusing adapter.
 
css9450 said:
Indeed. I focus manually but use the magnified Live View.

I also find having a tilting or articulating screen on the camera adds a lot to the ergonomic factor, vs. hunched over all the time.
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I second these points.

Manual focus, stiff, solid rig so nothing is moving.
Focus peaking. Magnified live view, still see just a bit of f-peaking.
Then even more magnified live view, final check

Tilting screen a huge advantage.

I prefer the camera LCD. Tried tethered, but that doesn't show the focus peaking, so not as effective for me.

(Sony gear. A7, A6000, etc.)
 
Ronald M said:
Photoshop noise reduction should reduce grain. NR is opposite of sharpening. Also try gaussian blur. Use a mask to isolate to the areas you want. Grey rather than black will let some NR thru, but not all.

There used to be a program called grain surgery. Still available?
Click to expand...

Thanks. Grain Surgery was acquired by Adobe and seems to have disappeared. Perhaps it's built-into Despeckle.

Here's a 100% screen shot of a very grainy late 60's Kodachrome slide, camera-scan at 24MPx with very good copy lens. What to do with this grain to make a modern cleaner image?
- Capture at 6MPx or with a lesser lens?
- PS Noise... Reduce Noise doesn't do much at all
- PS Noise... Despeckle filter helps a little bit
- Nik Dfine is a little better
- Gaussian Blur, then sharpen?

Any suggestions? Seriously, some of these slides looked better with lesser scans.

190407-Kodachrome-Noise-Example-DSC1046.png
 
ColSebastianMoran said:
Camera-scan friends -

What are you doing when your camera-scan produces too much detail, when the grain shows too much? Comparing some of my camera-scans to lab scans (from mid 2000's), I like their smoothness better than what I'm getting today, especially for skies and faces.

Do you smooth, and how? ... in Lightroom? ... in PS?

Example: 1:1 from 6MPx lab-scan in 2002, 1:2 of 24MPx camera-scan today. From a 2002 slide.

020600-Tuscany-Box2-01-LabScan-vs-CameraScan-C.png
Click to expand...

Something else is up because the camera scan's colours are off. Look at the hat.
It's almost like it's trying to show too much dynamic range.
 
Brooks Plaubel Veriwide 100, Kodak E100G, super ultra crappy scan using my iphone 8 and dropping the film onto a light table, with nothing holding it flat!
I just wanted to see how it looks before I whip out the Z7 and copy stand.

 
Hasselblad H1, 50mm lens, Fuji NPS160, Nikon Z7 scan

Shoot being paused while Pepe gives the model a kiss.

 
Ha Huss, seems you really got that camera scan thing down, excellent!

I gave up myself and for the little amount of 135 film I still do, returned to and older Polaroid Sprintscan 35...

The Canon Auto Bellows setup with macr lens included I put up in the classifieds hasn't stirred any attention so far so I might just shelve it and try camera scanning again this winter or so...
 
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