SURF
Member
Does it really matter on most stuff..
Probably not..
Somebody has to care... So we are here. Personally I use APS-C with great scanner lens. (I have a great scanner too.)
Emile de Leon
Well-known
We all have our ways...whatever works!Somebody has to care... So we are here. Personally I use APS-C with great scanner lens. (I have a great scanner too.)
ColSebastianMoran
( IRL Richard Karash )
Maybe better word is "thinks to start struggling". It's a bit softer on your image. "Also, grain resolution. In this, full frame wins by a little." -- your words too.
As for corner details we can use grain.
That's great. Corners look better than center. It's a very good lens. Are both images on a same focus plane or best focus was used?
24MP is nothing for that lens. It can work on 100MP APS-C. To proove that you can use telecovertor or two. At least in the center.
OK, we are thinking and seeing about the same.
With my Pakon at 6MPx, no visible grain. At 24MPx with cam-scan, there's lots of visible grain, it's a good indicator of whether you are getting all the image detail that's on the film. But, now I am not sure what to do with it. Default capture sharpening is probably accentuating the grain, and it can produce strange patterns. So, still working on this, but happy when my lenses resolve it.
Yes, the corner is better than the center for the FF USAF target image. That's an anomaly, probably a very slight focus change from center shot to corner. I did my best to hold the same film plane and focus. These tests are difficult to do precisely without real lab-quality equipment.
Yes, this 70 f/2.8 Sigma Macro ART is far better than 24MPx FF (about 6 microns pixel pitch). That's evident when we see it performs well on 24MPx APS with about 4 microns pixel pitch. Could it deliver on 100MPx FF? That would be 3 micro pitch. Would love to see it.
ColSebastianMoran
( IRL Richard Karash )
Personally I use APS-C with great scanner lens. (I have a great scanner too.)
Can you mention your lens?
Huss
Veteran
Huss
Veteran
SURF
Member
Can you mention your lens?
Yep. Rodenstock-Magnagon-75mm-f5.6. Some links:
https://www.largeformatphotography....anner-Lenses&p=1420827&viewfull=1#post1420827
https://www.largeformatphotography....anner-Lenses&p=1438451&viewfull=1#post1438451
Huss, keep them coming.
ColSebastianMoran
( IRL Richard Karash )
Yep. Rodenstock-Magnagon-75mm-f5.6. Some links:
https://www.largeformatphotography....anner-Lenses&p=1420827&viewfull=1#post1420827
https://www.largeformatphotography....anner-Lenses&p=1438451&viewfull=1#post1438451
Very interesting. Your results are very consistent with what I get with best lenses on Sony 24MPx APS bodies at 1:1.5 and at 1:1. I get a little more resolution, just about proportional to the increased MPx and reduces pixel pitch. These results for 90 Sony macro, 70 f/2.8 Sigma Macro ART, 55 f/2.8 Micro-Nikkor AI, and so forth.
I believe all these lenses and your Magnagon are limited by the sensors in our tests.
Huss
Veteran
Carriage
Established
It's interesting how the stop sign and DHL logo almost look brown but the HSBC red looks red. The scan looks correct overall though.
Huss
Veteran
It's interesting how the stop sign and DHL logo almost look brown but the HSBC red looks red. The scan looks correct overall though.
It is. I don't see it as brown but a deep red on my calibrated monitor. The warning signs with the red surround in the sunlight are much redder, so I think the shade has something to do with it. Plus the film type (expired Fuji Pro160s from 2008).
I have other images where it turns a cardinal red into a purple. All the other colours are 'correct' so I think it is just a characteristic of this film and age of it.
Huss
Veteran
Huss
Veteran
Huss
Veteran
Huss
Veteran
lemalk
Rebel Without Applause
I am currently struggling with scanning about 13 rolls of 35mm film. My Coolscan has been acting up, but for the most part is acceptable. I really appreciate everyone sharing their setups since I don't believe that this scanner will last more than another year or so.
I've got a shopping list ready - but I'll make sure to check in before I order since it seems that there are steady advances in the techniques (and equipment) used.
Thanks, everyone!
I've got a shopping list ready - but I'll make sure to check in before I order since it seems that there are steady advances in the techniques (and equipment) used.
Thanks, everyone!
Huss
Veteran
The most important piece of gear is negativelabpro.com
ColSebastianMoran
( IRL Richard Karash )
My Coolscan has been acting up, but for the most part is acceptable. ...
I've got a shopping list ready - but I'll make sure to check in before I order since it seems that there are steady advances in the techniques (and equipment) used.
First, Frank Phillips can probably fix your scanner or call in Gleb Stengel for certain parts. Seller Nikon_Coolscan on eBay, or find him on FaceBook.
Camera-scan setups vary.
Horizontal: Easiest is a good bellows and film/slide copy holder. Nikon PB-4 for example. Macro lens. Flash or a good high CRI source.
Front of camera: Nikon ES-2 or similar. Looks easy; haven't tried.
Vertical: You'll want a very rigid copy stand, negative holder, diffuser, and light source. Some way to hold everything in place.
Hope this is helpful.
ColSebastianMoran
( IRL Richard Karash )
Also, I'm in complete agreement with Huss. Negative Lab Pro is a real game changer.
Huss
Veteran
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