Scanning with a digital camera

Finally, here's the upper RH corner. No contest here.

190325-Tetons-SL093-Sony-vs-CoolScan-URCorner-2x.png
 
Question to group:

I have found that old Photoshop's 6 function Auto Colors in most cases sets best White and Black Points. Better than my manual attempts tested on drums, Creo, dslr. If so then why do we need a plugin? Why we need Lightroom or newest Photoshop?​

Maybe better find other free solutions? I always make scan or photo of negative as linear 16 bits outputbfrom sensor apply log transformation (photoshop curve avaiable) to get correct tone mapping and set white and black points. Dependeing on camera/scanner output color space - saturation correction required.
 
jzagaja said:
Question to group:

I have found that old Photoshop's 6 function Auto Colors in most cases sets best White and Black Points. Better than my manual attempts tested on drums, Creo, dslr. If so then why do we need a plugin? Why we need Lightroom or newest Photoshop?​

Maybe better find other free solutions? I always make scan or photo of negative as linear 16 bits outputbfrom sensor apply log transformation (photoshop curve avaiable) to get correct tone mapping and set white and black points. Dependeing on camera/scanner output color space - saturation correction required.
Click to expand...

Did u use it to convert negative film? How long does it take you? Can you post an example of an image that you converted?
 
Huss said:
Did u use it to convert negative film? How long does it take you? Can you post an example of an image that you converted?
Click to expand...

It is one click Huss - few second. So I would setup scanner or dslr so that it outputs true log or gamma 3,0 (approx), save 8 bit file then run third party app for automatic color correction. IrfanView does good job - preserves dynamic range.

Log curve for Photoshop

Gamma 2,2 to Log conversion

32528765047_21528440a9_c.jpg
 
Can anyone recommend a digital camera body that I could use to scan medium format film? It would only be used as a 'scanning' device, rather than a normal camera, so I'm not bothered about weight or other considerations. I already have lots of MF lenses, so something that could use one with an adapter would be perfect. Though, thinking about this...I don't think I have a macro lens. Can you get by with a normal + extension tube, or is a macro lens essential?

Are there any cheap options out there?

I only use film cameras, so am completely out of touch with digital gear!


Edit: any thoughts on the minimum megapixel requirements? I see fairly cheap 12MP bodies on eBay such as the Fuji X10, then it looks like a step up to 24MP bodies such as the Sony A6000 which are about double the cost.
 
I have been practicing using a Tomioka Yashinon 60/2.8 macro lens on my Sony A7ii to digitize my images. This is a scan made this way of a photo taken with a Zeiss Ikon Super Ikonta B on Fujichrome Velvia 50 RVP:


yet another try at this image. by Mike Novak, on Flickr

and a 100% crop of the image of the surfer in the foreground


100% crop of the previous image by Mike Novak, on Flickr

Finally, a 100% crop of the same image, scanned with an Epson V750. Please ignore the color differences, as I edited the first image to compensate for a bit of underexposure:


100% crop Epson V750 by Mike Novak, on Flickr

I think that the difference in resolution is remarkable. This is even more noticeable on black and white negative film, where the digicam method does a much better job of preserving the grain structure of the film.

My scanning rig is still a bit of a work in progress.


Scanning rig. by Mike Novak, on Flickr
 
Greyscale said:
I have been practicing using a Tomioka Yashinon 60/2.8 macro lens on my Sony A7ii to digitize my images. This is a scan made this way of a photo taken with a Zeiss Ikon Super Ikonta B on Fujichrome Velvia 50 RVP:


yet another try at this image. by Mike Novak, on Flickr

and a 100% crop of the image of the surfer in the foreground


100% crop of the previous image by Mike Novak, on Flickr

Finally, a 100% crop of the same image, scanned with an Epson V750. Please ignore the color differences, as I edited the first image to compensate for a bit of underexposure:


100% crop Epson V750 by Mike Novak, on Flickr

I think that the difference in resolution is remarkable. This is even more noticeable on black and white negative film, where the digicam method does a much better job of preserving the grain structure of the film.

My scanning rig is still a bit of a work in progress.


Scanning rig. by Mike Novak, on Flickr
Click to expand...

very nice but ur life would be so much easier if u use a copy stand. i bought mine from ebay new for $150.
 
ColSebastianMoran said:
Finally, here's the upper RH corner. No contest here.

190325-Tetons-SL093-Sony-vs-CoolScan-URCorner-2x.png
Click to expand...

Odd. My CS 9000 ED produces much sharper scans than what you are showing. Attached are wet and dry scans that I made. This was shot with a Zeiss Ercona folder with a Tessar lens.
 

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RObert Budding said:
Odd. My CS 9000 ED produces much sharper scans than what you are showing. Attached are wet and dry scans that I made. This was shot with a Zeiss Ercona folder with a Tessar lens.
Click to expand...

Yes, I too find it odd. This is in a corner, but that shouldn't affect anything much for the CoolScan. I'll keep watching.

But, my main point, supported by the center crops, is that 24MPx camera-scan is on a par with the CoolScan as far as resolution is concerned.
 
I think that one huge thing that is overlooked is that most of the awesome scanners like the CoolScans are no longer made, and very hard to get serviced etc.
Digicam scanning removes the worry of the demise of your scanner.
 
FujiLove said:
Can anyone recommend a digital camera body that I could use to scan medium format film? ... I already have lots of MF lenses, so something that could use one with an adapter would be perfect. Though, thinking about this...I don't think I have a macro lens. Can you get by with a normal + extension tube, or is a macro lens essential?

Are there any cheap options out there?

Edit: any thoughts on the minimum megapixel requirements? I see fairly cheap 12MP bodies on eBay such as the Fuji X10, then it looks like a step up to 24MP bodies such as the Sony A6000 which are about double the cost.
Click to expand...

Not much in life is really essential.

Questions:
- MF lenses? Manual focus 35mm lenses? or medium format?
- What are your aims for camera-scan? Screen/web/email? Good prints of ___ size? Archival capture of everything the film has to give? Makes a big difference.
- Negatives? Or positives? B&W or color?
- Are you presently using any post processing software?

But I'll start with some suggestions anyway, assuming negatives:
- Start with raw capture from your phone using Lightroom CC app. Transfer files to computer, process in Lightroom using Negative Lap Pro. Better than you would think. Experiment with light source and post processing.
- For medium format negatives, they deserve more pixels than you'll get in one shot unless you go for really high-end digital. In my experiments, 24MPx is just about enough for my 35mm chromes; I'd want more, proportionately more, for MF. Therefore, take multiple shots and stitching.
- Get a 24MPx mirrorless body and a manual focus macro lens. The Sigma 50mm f/2.8 DG Macro is excellent right to 1:1 (and it's AF on Nikon bodies w/focus motor).
- Yes, you want a macro lens.

Hope this helps.
 
ColSebastianMoran said:
Yes, I too find it odd. This is in a corner, but that shouldn't affect anything much for the CoolScan. I'll keep watching.

But, my main point, supported by the center crops, is that 24MPx camera-scan is on a par with the CoolScan as far as resolution is concerned.
Click to expand...

Agreed, but I'd hate to give up DICE. It saves a lot of clean-up time.
 
Thanks for the tips, all really helpful.

I would be looking to scan 35mm, Xpan and medium format negatives and slide film, mostly with the aim of producing colour prints up to A3 size for the medium format images. Colour only - I’m happy in the darkroom for anything B&W. I currently use a Pakon for 35mm, and a flatbed for medium format and would be looking to replace both. I love the Pakon, but despise the Epson and I’m finding it puts me off shooting colour film in my medium format cameras.

MF lenses = medium format. Hasselblad, Pentax 67, Xpan, Mamiya 6. I’m guessing the leaf shutter lenses will be no good attached to a digital camera?

I also have a few enlarger lenses in 50mm and 80mm lengths. I could certainly give those a go.

I’ve been looking at Fuji X-E1 bodies which seem to be a reasonable price these days. I hadn’t even considered using my phone.

Negative conversion would be Lightroom + Nate’s NLP plugin.


ColSebastianMoran said:
Not much in life is really essential.

Questions:
- MF lenses? Manual focus 35mm lenses? or medium format?
- What are your aims for camera-scan? Screen/web/email? Good prints of ___ size? Archival capture of everything the film has to give? Makes a big difference.
- Negatives? Or positives? B&W or color?
- Are you presently using any post processing software?

But I'll start with some suggestions anyway, assuming negatives:
- Start with raw capture from your phone using Lightroom CC app. Transfer files to computer, process in Lightroom using Negative Lap Pro. Better than you would think. Experiment with light source and post processing.
- For medium format negatives, they deserve more pixels than you'll get in one shot unless you go for really high-end digital. In my experiments, 24MPx is just about enough for my 35mm chromes; I'd want more, proportionately more, for MF. Therefore, take multiple shots and stitching.
- Get a 24MPx mirrorless body and a manual focus macro lens. The Sigma 50mm f/2.8 DG Macro is excellent right to 1:1 (and it's AF on Nikon bodies w/focus motor).
- Yes, you want a macro lens.

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
 
Leica R-E, Summicron 50 ROM, Fuji C200, Nikon Z7 scan, negativelabpro.com

1:1 crop shows that the negative can yield detail for a 47mp capture.



 
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