stompyq
Well-known
Here is something I consider a more modern/digital look
puppy by Pramodh Seneviratne, on Flickr
This was on Acros developed in Diafine. This combination was absolutely fantastic for me on 120. I just have had a hard time recreating it on 35mm. Like I said Acros is priced out for me as a general-purpose 35mm BW film. I will still use it if I have to but want to settle on a combination that gives me similar results. Vintage look for me is images with a lot more greys with less defined whites and blacks. I realize this is a result of gear used+film+developing. Just consider that I will be using modern lenses and none of the older glass. Also, I have no intention of doing darkroom printing (I absolutely hate that). I scan all my film.
puppy by Pramodh Seneviratne, on FlickrThis was on Acros developed in Diafine. This combination was absolutely fantastic for me on 120. I just have had a hard time recreating it on 35mm. Like I said Acros is priced out for me as a general-purpose 35mm BW film. I will still use it if I have to but want to settle on a combination that gives me similar results. Vintage look for me is images with a lot more greys with less defined whites and blacks. I realize this is a result of gear used+film+developing. Just consider that I will be using modern lenses and none of the older glass. Also, I have no intention of doing darkroom printing (I absolutely hate that). I scan all my film.
stompyq
Well-known
Somehow D76 and its various dilutions have never agreed with me. Considering taking the general consensus here and trying out TMY with Xtol 1+3. I'm not a fan of xtols binary living/dead characteristic. Is there anything else that is longer lived in solution?
Wenge
Registered User
Try the SD Quattro +30 f/1.4 (got a cheap/used kit from Japan), it's files look like modern film printed on the Epson P800 enlarger. Not being snarky, but just tried this experiment and still shaking my head at the b&w print output.
Greyscale
Veteran
Try ORWO UN54 with a yellow filter in either Diafine or Pyrocat HD.
This from this morning.
Yashica Electro 35 CC, ORWO UN54 yellow filter Diafine by Mike Novak, on Flickr
stompyq
Well-known
I didn't even know ORWO UN54 was still around! I shot that stuff when I was a kid bc it was the only thing I could afford. Never tried pyrocat. Always been curious
dourbalistar
Buy more film
You can get it in bulk direct from ORWO NA, the North American distributor for ORWO film:
http://www.orwona.com/orwo-un54-100-asa-35mm-reversal-or-negative-b-w-film-on-100ft-core/
Bingley
Veteran
For most photography with TMax 400, I expose at iso 200 and develop in Perceptol at a 1:2 dilution, with a development time of 10 mins. Works v. well.
Greyscale
Veteran
Tri X in Pyrocat will give you a similar look. It is the best thing if you want shadow detail.
Ricoh Singlex TLS, Mamiya-Sekor 50/2, Kodak Tri X EI 320, Pyrocat HD 1:1:100 15 minutes 20C by Mike Novak, on Flickr
Bingley
Veteran
Isn’t Lomography Postdam Kino rebadged ORWO UN54? If that’s correct, then a source of ORWO UN54 is readily available.
Greyscale
Veteran
Yes, and it is the ONLY source of it available in 120.
dourbalistar
Buy more film
I've not tried this personally, but perhaps look into Ilford XP2, cross-processed in traditional black and white chemistry?
https://www.ilfordphoto.com/ilford-xp2-super-in-black-and-white-chemistry/
https://www.ilfordphoto.com/ilford-xp2-super-in-black-and-white-chemistry/
45govt
Established
45govt
Established
Alittle better view
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
D-76 1+1 really does give the best results with Tmax 400. If you want more contrasty midtones, Tmax Developer is great for Tmax 400, but with a little more grain than you would get with D-76.
dourbalistar
Buy more film
The OP is inquiring about 35mm, but those Autocord images look very smooth and grain free, Don. What dilution/time did you use?
Corran
Well-known
T-Max 100 and T-Max developer is about as modern as it gets. Use a tripod if you need, 400-speed film ain't gonna have the low grain look.
This combo can be tricky. Years ago I perfected a semi-stand development scheme using between 1:19 to 1:49 dilution for 1 hour at ~70F using T-Max dev, which is definitely not on the "recommended processing" guidelines but who cares, it gave me more consistent results.
I got negatives that looked almost identical to shooting my D800 in b&w mode, with just a hint of texture from the film grain:
This combo can be tricky. Years ago I perfected a semi-stand development scheme using between 1:19 to 1:49 dilution for 1 hour at ~70F using T-Max dev, which is definitely not on the "recommended processing" guidelines but who cares, it gave me more consistent results.
I got negatives that looked almost identical to shooting my D800 in b&w mode, with just a hint of texture from the film grain:
dourbalistar
Buy more film
Just found another more recent article published on Ilford's own website. The sample images are scans of prints, but it looks to be a really flexible film:
https://www.ilfordphoto.com/processing-xp2s-in-black-and-white-chemistry/
https://www.ilfordphoto.com/processing-xp2s-in-black-and-white-chemistry/
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
T-Max 100 and T-Max developer is about as modern as it gets. Use a tripod if you need, 400-speed film ain't gonna have the low grain look.
This combo can be tricky. Years ago I perfected a semi-stand development scheme using between 1:19 to 1:49 dilution for 1 hour at ~70F using T-Max dev, which is definitely not on the "recommended processing" guidelines but who cares, it gave me more consistent results.
I got negatives that looked almost identical to shooting my D800 in b&w mode, with just a hint of texture from the film grain:
That looks incredible; was it shot on 35mm film, or 120?
Freakscene
Obscure member
I’m going to guess 35mm from the texture. This is about what I would expect from TMX exposed and developed spot on. Corran can you clarify for us?
Marty
45govt
Established
Sorry didn't catch that
Here are a couple shot with a Minolta 7S
All mine are shot at 400iso and developed HC110 1-49 for 10 mins with 1 minute initial agitation and then 10 seconds every minute and then normal fix and rinse
