djon
Well-known
Important exchange stolen from Photo.net about maximum B&W sharpness using QTR and Epson (best alternative to "Black Only")..
...may have implications for color sharpness as well...may even relate to photolab sharpness?
(fyi Erik in Netherlands sells "scanhancer" ..a diffuser like the one in old Minolta 5400..difficult to use in current Nikon except on slides, maybe no use at all in Minolta 5400II, reportedly very good in Minolta IV and earlier.)
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Erik (http://scanhancer.iddo.nl) , nov 09, 2005; 12:19 a.m.
John,
If you want to get tack sharp prints from QTR it is very important to use a stepped workflow:
- capture sharpening after initial scan, spotting and curve corrections;
- then downsize to 720 dpi (or if you like it better: 360) at output size;
- then sharpen again for that size.
Using this workflow will give you the best resolution in your print. It will be as good as BO with graphical elements and even better with more nuanced details. Do not send a file to your printer at a higher resolution than 720 dpi. Print at least at 1440 dpi printerpolation, and if you have an adjusted QTR curve print at 2880 dpi printerpolation. I have tested this extensively and found this the best way of achieving the highest possible resolution and sharpness, while retaining full gradients.
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john kelly Photo.net Patron, nov 09, 2005; 11:25 a.m.
Eric WOW! Thanks.
I'll explore your methodology.
Why not do all sharpening at the very last, in one step?
Please say more about your choice of sharpening tools..
What "sharpen" selections/tools do you use for your first and second sharpenings?
I've also been most successful with a second sharpening ("smart sharpen" after USM ...but smart sharpen may cancel or conflict with the USM)...despite good results I've not been comfortable doing sharpening twice.
I've been using the sharpening options in Photoshop CS2 because I want to keep things simple. For color, USM has always seemed ideal, but now I'll have to revisit "smart sharpen," due to the improved results I've seen in QTR...
Eric, do you use the same two-step sharpening in color?
...may have implications for color sharpness as well...may even relate to photolab sharpness?
(fyi Erik in Netherlands sells "scanhancer" ..a diffuser like the one in old Minolta 5400..difficult to use in current Nikon except on slides, maybe no use at all in Minolta 5400II, reportedly very good in Minolta IV and earlier.)
_________________________________________
Erik (http://scanhancer.iddo.nl) , nov 09, 2005; 12:19 a.m.
John,
If you want to get tack sharp prints from QTR it is very important to use a stepped workflow:
- capture sharpening after initial scan, spotting and curve corrections;
- then downsize to 720 dpi (or if you like it better: 360) at output size;
- then sharpen again for that size.
Using this workflow will give you the best resolution in your print. It will be as good as BO with graphical elements and even better with more nuanced details. Do not send a file to your printer at a higher resolution than 720 dpi. Print at least at 1440 dpi printerpolation, and if you have an adjusted QTR curve print at 2880 dpi printerpolation. I have tested this extensively and found this the best way of achieving the highest possible resolution and sharpness, while retaining full gradients.
____________________________________________
john kelly Photo.net Patron, nov 09, 2005; 11:25 a.m.
Eric WOW! Thanks.
I'll explore your methodology.
Why not do all sharpening at the very last, in one step?
Please say more about your choice of sharpening tools..
What "sharpen" selections/tools do you use for your first and second sharpenings?
I've also been most successful with a second sharpening ("smart sharpen" after USM ...but smart sharpen may cancel or conflict with the USM)...despite good results I've not been comfortable doing sharpening twice.
I've been using the sharpening options in Photoshop CS2 because I want to keep things simple. For color, USM has always seemed ideal, but now I'll have to revisit "smart sharpen," due to the improved results I've seen in QTR...
Eric, do you use the same two-step sharpening in color?
jlw
Rangefinder camera pedant
Does anyone know what these people mean when they refer to "QTR"?
-- jlw
[longing for the days when all it took to get sharper prints was a better enlarger lens...]
-- jlw
[longing for the days when all it took to get sharper prints was a better enlarger lens...]
djon
Well-known
QTR is Quadtone. It's a printer driver, like Epson's printer driver but specialized for B&W.
That means it doesn't use Epson's driver. Its for B&W photos, but it will give you a wide range of tones, from brown-sepia-neutral-cold. I use it with conventional Epson pigments.
When I want to print color I use Epson's driver, when I want to print B&W I either use QTR or I select "black only" on the Epson driver and print that way.
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QTR is VERY easy to use..controlled with sliders..one side's warm, the other is cold. In addition you can control midtone contrast and ink-loading (to prevent blocking up of ink in fine details).
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It's .free to download....everybody who's serious about inkjet B&W tries this, and everybody loves it...
IMO the ONLY good Epson alternative is black-only, which has advantages that I was trying to match with this thread (shadow contrast=sharpness). But the Epson alternative is not as smooth-looking sometimes and it doesn't give you any tone control. I happen to like sepia toned prints with strong blacks sometimes, and with QTR that's just a simple selection.
Free to download...but be a good fellow and PAY the nice man his $50 when you like the software... http://www.sbillard.org/Shareware/QTRgui.htm
Black only is sharper than anybody's enlarging lens if you've got a good scanner. QTR can probably be as sharp as black only with some sharpening. The sharp QTR technique was what I was pursuing with the photo.net thread.
That means it doesn't use Epson's driver. Its for B&W photos, but it will give you a wide range of tones, from brown-sepia-neutral-cold. I use it with conventional Epson pigments.
When I want to print color I use Epson's driver, when I want to print B&W I either use QTR or I select "black only" on the Epson driver and print that way.
________________________________
QTR is VERY easy to use..controlled with sliders..one side's warm, the other is cold. In addition you can control midtone contrast and ink-loading (to prevent blocking up of ink in fine details).
____________________________________
It's .free to download....everybody who's serious about inkjet B&W tries this, and everybody loves it...
IMO the ONLY good Epson alternative is black-only, which has advantages that I was trying to match with this thread (shadow contrast=sharpness). But the Epson alternative is not as smooth-looking sometimes and it doesn't give you any tone control. I happen to like sepia toned prints with strong blacks sometimes, and with QTR that's just a simple selection.
Free to download...but be a good fellow and PAY the nice man his $50 when you like the software... http://www.sbillard.org/Shareware/QTRgui.htm
Black only is sharper than anybody's enlarging lens if you've got a good scanner. QTR can probably be as sharp as black only with some sharpening. The sharp QTR technique was what I was pursuing with the photo.net thread.