Shooting Eastman (Double-X) 5222 in the Leica

This film looks a little pricey against HP5+


Loading my own from the 400' roll, it's costing me about $2.80 for a 36 exposure roll (here in the USA).

The film proceeded into production for Hollywood Cinematographers in 1959, and it has been available continuously since that date. It's not going to win a technical challenge against HP5+, which is a much more modern emulsion formulation.
It has a "retro" quality to it that I, and many others here, enjoy!

These guys that respool it for profit are presenting an opportunity to try the film, without making the time and monetary cost commitments that are simply part of the deal with using large amounts of this film.
 
So I developed a short trip yesterday in Xtol 1:1 for 9 minutes instead of 10 and the results look promising, not dense anymore like it was at 10mins.

I also had a modest light leak accompanying my tests so I'll need to look at this a little more before concluding.

I'll try 9 once again with a full roll that's well exposed at EI400 all throughout and post back. This will be in mid May as I am traveling until then.

Ben
 
So I developed a short trip yesterday in Xtol 1:1 for 9 minutes instead of 10 and the results look promising, not dense anymore like it was at 10mins.

I also had a modest light leak accompanying my tests so I'll need to look at this a little more before concluding.

I'll try 9 once again with a full roll that's well exposed at EI400 all throughout and post back. This will be in mid May as I am traveling until then.

Ben

Thanks, Ben... Enjoy your travels! :angel:
 
If you replenish Xtol properly, it lasts for years. When I was doing 10-15 rolls of 36 exp. film a week, I had Xtol in a Kodak hard rubber tank with a floating lid. Used a hanger that held six rolls of film at a time. I would replace the Xtol every couple of years, just to get the sludge out of the bottom. Never had it go bad. Later, using Xtol 1:1, it was in the one-ltr. brown glass bottles and seemed to be good up to year after mixed.
 
If you replenish Xtol properly, it lasts for years. When I was doing 10-15 rolls of 36 exp. film a week, I had Xtol in a Kodak hard rubber tank with a floating lid. Used a hanger that held six rolls of film at a time. I would replace the Xtol every couple of years, just to get the sludge out of the bottom. Never had it go bad. Later, using Xtol 1:1, it was in the one-ltr. brown glass bottles and seemed to be good up to year after mixed.

Good to know thanks.
I mixed my Xtol and stored them in see through glass bottles but the bottles went into a cabinet that is pitch dark inside and I only open it twice a day for 2 minutes in total. Should I be ok or a colored glass is a must?

Thanks,
Ben
 
Tom, is shooting at 250 a good starting point considering the bright days here in Atlanra? I will be shooting a roll tomorrow!

Dave, being a bit unused to bright sunshine (Pacific North West is not exactly known for it) I think you would be safe cutting the speed to 250. Maybe shoot a roll and bracket exposures 200/250/320/400 and process as you intend to do - and see what comes up.
XX is quite "tolerant" of slight over/under exposures - so you don't have to worry too much. Only problem could be blocked shadows in bright sun.
Tom
 
Dave, being a bit unused to bright sunshine (Pacific North West is not exactly known for it) I think you would be safe cutting the speed to 250. Maybe shoot a roll and bracket exposures 200/250/320/400 and process as you intend to do - and see what comes up.
XX is quite "tolerant" of slight over/under exposures - so you don't have to worry too much. Only problem could be blocked shadows in bright sun.
Tom

Thank you, Tom...I reckon I will set the F6 up just that way so I don't have to think! I will let you know the results!:cool:
 
Thank you, Tom...I reckon I will set the F6 up just that way so I don't have to think! I will let you know the results!:cool:

Dave,

I've been shooting it at EI 250 (the usual yellow filter taking that down another stop...) here in Denver and blocked shadows can still be a bit problematic, but my stuff suffers less with blocked shadows than it does with blown highlights, so I don't care. Developing it in D-96 as well as Adox MQ, both mentioned (way) up-thread. Heed Tom's warning about gelatin bits; they are there. It's a sweet little film.

s-a
 
Dave,

I've been shooting it at EI 250 (the usual yellow filter taking that down another stop...) here in Denver and blocked shadows can still be a bit problematic, but my stuff suffers less with blocked shadows than it does with blown highlights, so I don't care. Developing it in D-96 as well as Adox MQ, both mentioned (way) up-thread. Heed Tom's warning about gelatin bits; they are there. It's a sweet little film.

s-a

Gelatin bits? What to do about those?
I plan on shooting a single roll tomorrow and picking up D76 to develop the roll over the weekend. D76 as a one shot session and dump the developer. Pardon my dumb question but where do gelatin bits become a problem??:eek:
 
Gelatin bits? What to do about those?
I plan on shooting a single roll tomorrow and picking up D76 to develop the roll over the weekend. D76 as a one shot session and dump the developer. Pardon my dumb question but where do gelatin bits become a problem??:eek:

Also interested in this!
I did see some spots on a few of my frames - they seem to be on the emulsion side and will print like a black spot on the paper.
Could that be what Tom is talking about?

Thanks,
Ben
 
Gelatin bits? What to do about those?
I plan on shooting a single roll tomorrow and picking up D76 to develop the roll over the weekend. D76 as a one shot session and dump the developer. Pardon my dumb question but where do gelatin bits become a problem??:eek:

Remember, this is a movie film. Every frame is seen for 1/24th of a second so some 'inclusions' in the emulsion is not as serious as with a 'still' negative. I haven't had any black spots yet, just the white ones (blocked light) so you spot the print if you're wet printing. You're into it for one roll. Just enjoy it.

s-a
 
Remember, this is a movie film. Every frame is seen for 1/24th of a second so some 'inclusions' in the emulsion is not as serious as with a 'still' negative. I haven't had any black spots yet, just the white ones (blocked light) so you spot the print if you're wet printing. You're into it for one roll. Just enjoy it.

s-a

It makes sense and it's also half the cost (for us in Japan 1/4th) of other commercial films so I think it's ok!

i've so far shot 5-6 rolls and no real big issues. On some (one or two) frames I saw the dots. Yes - like you it wasn't black - white! My bad... It looks like as if there was no emulsion applied to those areas when viewed under a loupe on a light table.

Ben
 
Remember, this is a movie film. Every frame is seen for 1/24th of a second so some 'inclusions' in the emulsion is not as serious as with a 'still' negative. I haven't had any black spots yet, just the white ones (blocked light) so you spot the print if you're wet printing. You're into it for one roll. Just enjoy it.

s-a

So far out of 10 rolls, my buddy's lab did the developing.... No problems and I have scanned them all and nothing that I can see is a problem.

I just picked up 20 rolls from FPP and that is where I am shooting from now with the exception that I want to develop my own.
 
It makes sense and it's also half the cost (for us in Japan 1/4th) of other commercial films so I think it's ok!

i've so far shot 5-6 rolls and no real big issues. On some (one or two) frames I saw the dots. Yes - like you it wasn't black - white! My bad... It looks like as if there was no emulsion applied to those areas when viewed under a loupe on a light table.

Ben

Just to be clear, I wet print so a white spot for me is a dark spot; on the negative. A chunk of something blocking the enlarger's light. So I spot it out. It's relaxing.

s-a
 
Just to be clear, I wet print so a white spot for me is a dark spot; on the negative. A chunk of something blocking the enlarger's light. So I spot it out. It's relaxing.

s-a

Ok - now I am confused. I'll go home and look what color it was. But I remember seeing it and examining it - not sure of black or white it was. Either no emulsion and then a dark - burned out spot on the paper or it was blocked like you said and white spots. I now lean towards believing it was white on paper but will check.

Ben
 
Hmmm Unfortunately I had to cancel my order with Bluegrass Packaging for the Harvey's 777. They sent me an invoice, and I sent them a check. When they didn't cash it, I called them. It turns out that is in NOT in stock. So I cancelled the order.

Think I'll stick to ADOX Borax MQ for my upcoming XX needs.
 
Hmmm Unfortunately I had to cancel my order with Bluegrass Packaging for the Harvey's 777. They sent me an invoice, and I sent them a check. When they didn't cash it, I called them. It turns out that is in NOT in stock. So I cancelled the order.

Think I'll stick to ADOX Borax MQ for my upcoming XX needs.

Well that is disappointing. Did they have an idea of when they would stock it?
 
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You Know Dave,

Hearing that this stuff died a few months after mixing does not encourage me to try it. It costs a lot and 4 gallons of replenisher and developer is pretty large amount for anybody (unless maybe they are setting up a 3 1/2 gallon sink line). I have that stuff downstairs but have never set it up. And I just dropped a bunch of money into JOBO rotary processing equipment for my larger format stuff.

D-76 is still the best looking IMO. Might considering reordering Harvey's 777 in the future but not if it dies suddenly. Can't have that.
 
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