Nokton48
Veteran
Here is good info about mixing HC-110 directly from the concentrated syrup (best way to do it in my opinion): Buy a small and larger plastic syringe, and use that to suck a small amount of the concentrate out of the bottle.
http://www.warehousephoto.com/Articles/hc110.htm
Also check out this Youtube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3HHepU9ujs
Also check out on Youtube : "The Alchemist in Hollywood"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0mraHHyBrA
And a bit of fun. How to load your Panavison camera with XX:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VU968rtYxMc
http://www.warehousephoto.com/Articles/hc110.htm
Also check out this Youtube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3HHepU9ujs
Also check out on Youtube : "The Alchemist in Hollywood"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0mraHHyBrA
And a bit of fun. How to load your Panavison camera with XX:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VU968rtYxMc
Nokton48
Veteran
More Developers for XX.
More Developers for XX.
Here are some of the developers I have tried with XX, or, am contemplating trying with XX.
4) "Diafine" is one that gets a lot of attention on this thread. It is speed boosting and a two beth type, so time and temp are not as critical. Many here report great scans from Diafine XX negs. It's cousin "Acufine" is also speed boosting and shows great promise with XX, although I have not tried it yet.
5) "PMK Pyro" is one I have used and the XX negs it produces are quite unique, with "Eberhard effects" and "Mackie Lines" which print like silk on silver photo paper. Scanned PMK Pyro negs are difficult to process, due to the unique staining effect of the Pyro. Pyro Plus is absolutely my favorite large format developer but also with HP5+, FP4+, Pan F+, etc. Works best with old school films. Kodak made a pyro developer around the turn of the century, it was called D-1. Tell you anything?
6) In the back, is a packet of "Legacy Mic-x" film developer, available from Freestyle Photo, and I am still running a gallon of it, also made up a replenisher with info from the internet. It has a lot of sulphite in it, equivilent to Microdol-X which is no longer available from Kodak. I love this developer for the way it renders the film, and will continue to use it for XX and other films. It does reduce film speed by a bit, due to it's formulation.
7) If you like your XX to be speedy, two more possibilities are Kodak T-Max Developer, and Ilford DDX. Both of these are "push" developers, potentially increasing the XX film speed. Results here with XX at up to 1600EI (with speed increasing developers) have looked pretty good. I know that XXX works very well with T-Max dev so I am looking forward to trying these two with XX.
Just some more options.
More Developers for XX.
Here are some of the developers I have tried with XX, or, am contemplating trying with XX.
4) "Diafine" is one that gets a lot of attention on this thread. It is speed boosting and a two beth type, so time and temp are not as critical. Many here report great scans from Diafine XX negs. It's cousin "Acufine" is also speed boosting and shows great promise with XX, although I have not tried it yet.
5) "PMK Pyro" is one I have used and the XX negs it produces are quite unique, with "Eberhard effects" and "Mackie Lines" which print like silk on silver photo paper. Scanned PMK Pyro negs are difficult to process, due to the unique staining effect of the Pyro. Pyro Plus is absolutely my favorite large format developer but also with HP5+, FP4+, Pan F+, etc. Works best with old school films. Kodak made a pyro developer around the turn of the century, it was called D-1. Tell you anything?
6) In the back, is a packet of "Legacy Mic-x" film developer, available from Freestyle Photo, and I am still running a gallon of it, also made up a replenisher with info from the internet. It has a lot of sulphite in it, equivilent to Microdol-X which is no longer available from Kodak. I love this developer for the way it renders the film, and will continue to use it for XX and other films. It does reduce film speed by a bit, due to it's formulation.
7) If you like your XX to be speedy, two more possibilities are Kodak T-Max Developer, and Ilford DDX. Both of these are "push" developers, potentially increasing the XX film speed. Results here with XX at up to 1600EI (with speed increasing developers) have looked pretty good. I know that XXX works very well with T-Max dev so I am looking forward to trying these two with XX.
Just some more options.
Attachments
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
Kodak Double X in D96 ( Kodaks movie stock developer) - similar to D76. I underexposed about a stop to drop the back ground down and relied ob the XX to hold the brights in the "Yellow taxi" ( promo car for a local restaurant) Also cut the standard 8 min time down to 7 min.
M2 and Leica Super Elmarit 21mm f3.4.
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
Kodak Double X (at 320 iso or there a bouts). HC 110 1:60 (from raw syrup) for 11 min.
Leica M2 and Zeiss ZM Planar 50mm f2.0
dave lackey
Veteran
Tom, these are all quite lovely images... Terrific even.
I have been told to try one film and one developer for a long time. Would you recommend either developer over the other for me to stick with one process? I will order some developer this week.
I have been told to try one film and one developer for a long time. Would you recommend either developer over the other for me to stick with one process? I will order some developer this week.
Nokton48
Veteran
I'm sure Tom will answer you shortly.
Dave,
For your needs, I would say HC-110, D76 types need replenishment and are powders.
There is consistency in one-shot development and that is what you need at this point.
No downsides to using HC-110.
One good thing about XX, is that all these developers produce good usuable results. And there are more formulations out there, too. Some I have not mentioned. Best for you to stick to HC-110 for consistency and ease of results.
Yes stick to one developer.
Dave,
For your needs, I would say HC-110, D76 types need replenishment and are powders.
There is consistency in one-shot development and that is what you need at this point.
No downsides to using HC-110.
One good thing about XX, is that all these developers produce good usuable results. And there are more formulations out there, too. Some I have not mentioned. Best for you to stick to HC-110 for consistency and ease of results.
Yes stick to one developer.
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
Dave. I would suggest the HC 110 as a "starter" - easy to get and easy to use and no long term storage problems. It does take a while to "shoot" yourself in with a film. Your meter readings or Sunny f16, development technique etc will make a difference. Once you got the film "nailed" down you can start with different developers - and see what they will do. The Rodinal/HC 110 are, sharp and contrasty, The MQ's like D96/D76/ID 11 etc are generally smoother and slightly lower contrast - it is interesting to see how much the developer influences the look of a film too.
dave lackey
Veteran
Thank you , sir!!!
BLKRCAT
75% Film
I really liked Xtol. I found once I got it dialed in the results were quite good. The times online however were far too long and required a lot of adjustment.
jkjod
Well-known
I have been using D-76 and I'm quite pleased with the results - I've rated everywhere between EI 250-1600, but probably won't shoot more than 800. I have wet printed from the roll I shot at 800 and I really liked the results.
EI 250, 10 mins, 20C
Scan-150129-0001-16.jpg by jkjod, on Flickr
EI 400, 14 mins, 20C
2015-03-15-0001-3.jpg by jkjod, on Flickr
EI 800, 20 mins, 20C
Scan-141203-0001-6.jpg by jkjod, on Flickr
EI 1600, 28 mins, 20C
Scan-141207-0001-32.jpg by jkjod, on Flickr
EI 250, 10 mins, 20C
Scan-150129-0001-16.jpg by jkjod, on FlickrEI 400, 14 mins, 20C
2015-03-15-0001-3.jpg by jkjod, on FlickrEI 800, 20 mins, 20C
Scan-141203-0001-6.jpg by jkjod, on FlickrEI 1600, 28 mins, 20C
Scan-141207-0001-32.jpg by jkjod, on Flickr
Bingley
Veteran
The Film Photography Project now sells XX in rolls of 27 exposures; I recently bought some to try. Not as cheap as buying bulk, but not costly either. I'll develop w/ HC 110 since that's my go-to developer these days.
Chris Bail
Regular Guy
I got my start with some of the FPP loaded 27 exp rolls.
I'm now working my way through 100' that I bought from them and bulk loaded into new reloadables, and have another 400 feet that I've yet to figure out how exactly I'll break down into 100' rolls with just a changing bag.
I'm now working my way through 100' that I bought from them and bulk loaded into new reloadables, and have another 400 feet that I've yet to figure out how exactly I'll break down into 100' rolls with just a changing bag.
philipus
ʎɐpɹəʇɥƃı&
Not sure if these images will show as I link from a LUF thread but I hope so. These are from the first 5222 roll I developed.
I shot these at EI 1000 with my TTL and developed in HC-110 (H). I forget the exact time now but I took the times for B at 20C, doubled for H and converted to 21C.
I am overall very happy with this film. It seems to have similar push capabilities as Tri-X and has the added benefit of curling less.
Swedish photo journalist Anders Engman giving a presentation at the Leica meeting I arranged in November in Stockholm.
Photo journalist Anders Hansson in conversation with Anders Engman
Showing a nice 1A
Peter Gustafsson from Wibergs Foto who brought nice camera equipment for everyone to play with
The trusty Speed Graphic
I shot these at EI 1000 with my TTL and developed in HC-110 (H). I forget the exact time now but I took the times for B at 20C, doubled for H and converted to 21C.
I am overall very happy with this film. It seems to have similar push capabilities as Tri-X and has the added benefit of curling less.
Swedish photo journalist Anders Engman giving a presentation at the Leica meeting I arranged in November in Stockholm.
Photo journalist Anders Hansson in conversation with Anders Engman
Showing a nice 1A
Peter Gustafsson from Wibergs Foto who brought nice camera equipment for everyone to play with
The trusty Speed Graphic
Chris Bail
Regular Guy
A couple recent Double X shots that I bulk loaded from 100' roll. Both shot with my Nikon S2 and Millennium Nikkor-S 50mm f1.4 rated at ISO 200.
I must admit, that I sent these off to Dwayne's for developing, so I have no details there. I haven't had the time to do my own developing with a 7 month old boy crawling around and getting into everything.
2015-01.Nikon S2.Millennium Nikkor-S 50mm f1.4.Eastman 5222.22 by Chris Bail, on Flickr
2015-01.Nikon S2.Millennium Nikkor-S 50mm f1.4.Eastman 5222.17 by Chris Bail, on Flickr
I must admit, that I sent these off to Dwayne's for developing, so I have no details there. I haven't had the time to do my own developing with a 7 month old boy crawling around and getting into everything.
2015-01.Nikon S2.Millennium Nikkor-S 50mm f1.4.Eastman 5222.22 by Chris Bail, on Flickr
2015-01.Nikon S2.Millennium Nikkor-S 50mm f1.4.Eastman 5222.17 by Chris Bail, on Flickr
maddoc
... likes film again.
dave lackey
Veteran
Wow, such nice images posted above. All of them give me both inspiration to shoot and confidence to invest in 5222 film. Thanks for posting!:angel:
Guess who is coming to my door today?
007 !!!!, straight from Casino Royale!!
Well , not literally, but the same film used in Casino Royale is being delivered this morning already loaded in cassettes! As soon as the budget allows, I will get the roll and load my own... may be awhile ...
Guess who is coming to my door today?
007 !!!!, straight from Casino Royale!!
Well , not literally, but the same film used in Casino Royale is being delivered this morning already loaded in cassettes! As soon as the budget allows, I will get the roll and load my own... may be awhile ...
Attachments
dave lackey
Veteran
Looking forward to your photos being posted. I just put in an order for some HC110 to try for the first time. My film order is coming in today so I have a lot of shooting to do whilst waiting on the developer!
Nokton48
Veteran
Yeah, here's the link. 24 exposure roll of XX is $5.49. Not a bad price if you want to try it without breaking the bank
http://filmphotographyproject.com/store/35mm-bw-eastman-double-x-5222-1-roll
Nokton48
Veteran
Hey Chris,
Shown above are the film cores that come with 100' Kodak Tri-X which I recently bought from B&H. These are what Kodak calls "Daylight Load" reels since they are lightight, and I think they will go into 100' 35mm movie cameras? Anyway I prefer to use the Kodak reels, you simply tape the film to the reel, and wind it up til it's completely full. Then cut it, bag it, and put it a 100' metal bulk film can, or take it straight into the 100' daylight loader. Shown on the bottom, are a couple of 100' film cores from bulk Fuji Neopan 400.
Scissors, tape, film core, 100' metal can (or daylight loader) and that's about it. I've read that some people don't use the cores, but I prefer to use them myself.
Attachments
frobozz
Newbie
A warning about using the daylight load "camera spool" metal reels in a Lloyd's bulk loader (aka "The Daylight" loader): they are a tight fit. It's tricky but doable to fit them into the cavity, but then the flanges add just a tiny bit too much width inside. So when you screw the big red knob on to cinch down the lid, don't crank it down as hard as you normally would, allowing the side plate of the loader a little bit extra breathing room. Don't leave it rattling-around loose, because the light baffle flanges molded into it aren't very deep, and you don't want light to get in.
I guess some people grind off the strengthening ribs on the side plate, as those are what bind up against the reel, but I find it easy enough to just leave the thing a tiny bit loose, then it works fine.
Duncan
P.S. I'm shooting all my Double-X in an SLR, which is why I haven't been posting any example pics to this thread. It wouldn't seem right! But this is hands-down the best thread about 5222 anywhere on the internet, so I at least check in from time to time.
I guess some people grind off the strengthening ribs on the side plate, as those are what bind up against the reel, but I find it easy enough to just leave the thing a tiny bit loose, then it works fine.
Duncan
P.S. I'm shooting all my Double-X in an SLR, which is why I haven't been posting any example pics to this thread. It wouldn't seem right! But this is hands-down the best thread about 5222 anywhere on the internet, so I at least check in from time to time.