Shooting film without the hassles of scanning

[ferider]

I might be the odd man out here, but I find it way easier to do my own raw scan of an entire roll of film, than going twice to Cosco.

Selecting and post-processing the keepers is more work, but then again, I don't see why it should be easier even with digital (except for the occasional dust spots). And I feel it's more work with bad shop scans.

So my advice is: get a good scanner, optimize your work flow.

Roland.

 

[roboflick]

I send all my film out, so as to enjoy film without the time investment of processing and scanning things myself. I use North Coast Photo, and have had good results. There is a cost, and it isn't insignificant, but I like film, and value my time enough to "outsource" those processes.

Cheers.

I do the same, north coast photo does excellent work I've sent them hundreds of rolls, and they've always called with questions. Great service


Nik

 

[rf1552]

I am the OP.
Thanks for all the feedback, I really appreciate it.

My intentions are to be able to scan 35mm negs at a high enough res. to print out 12x18" prints on my Epson 3000.

Im going to have to call NCPS to see if their enhanced scan can support this. They said it was 45mb files so thats promising I guess.

My other option is to pick up a nice Minolta Dimage 5400 II with vuescan software but I dont trust myself that I will be able to be patient enough with dust removal and all that. I REALLY DONT WANT TO SCAN AND CORRECT MY OWN NEGATIVES.

sheesh, I feel for all the film shooters out there. Theres not too many options but to do it ourselves. 🙁

 

[splitimageview]

NCPS, Precision, Indie Film Lab, Pro Photo Irvine -- all are good choices for develop and scan. The latter two offer downloads of the scans, so you don't have to wait for the mail to arrive with CDs. They'll also hold your film and ship back to you in bulk when you have sufficient rolls accumulated, saves a lot on return postage.

 

[kxl]

W/re to scanning, I have a Nikon Coolscan 5000 that I DIY'ed so that it can scan a full roll without any intervention from me. So, I scan the entire roll at very low res (for speed), then I go back and scan at high res (and save to TIF) the images I want to work with. If you're willing to spend the money to buy a decent scanner and if you can find one, I would highly recommend the Coolscan 5000.

 

[rf1552]

I decided Im just going to outsource to NCPS or similar. I dont think I'll be shooting film for that long to make it worth buying a scanner and dealing with all the headaches. I dont care what people say, based on the large amount of research, scanning is a PITA especially for a newbie like me. Dust, scratches, software, it all sounds annoying.

 

[J450N]

My other option is to pick up a nice Minolta Dimage 5400 II with vuescan software but I dont trust myself that I will be able to be patient enough with dust removal and all that. I REALLY DONT WANT TO SCAN AND CORRECT MY OWN NEGATIVES.

Some scanners/software can remove dust and scratches. Look up the plustek 7600i, coolscan software, digital ICE, etc. It really is nice. I spent HOURS touching up old slides a long time ago. I scanned them again 10 years later and they required no touchups.

 

[rf1552]

Some scanners/software can remove dust and scratches. Look up the plustek 7600i, coolscan software, digital ICE, etc. It really is nice. I spent HOURS touching up old slides a long time ago. I scanned them again 10 years later and they required no touchups.

But I read somewhere that tri-x BW cannot benefit from ICE? Was that wrong info? What about portra 160? If both films can be cleaned up using ICE, this could be a game changer.

 

[kuzano]

For those that drop at Cvs or Wal-Mart, aren't you worried that they will develop your negatives poorly? Once it happens you can never fix that right? Or is it very hard to make a mistake when developing negatives?

I use the Fujifilm Kiosk at Walmart, and use the "Send Out Only" envelopes. I've been doing this for many years. The film goes by Walmart truck direct to Fuji. It is not handled out of the "Send Out Only" envelope by Walmart at any point in the operation. I do not believe that Walmart has ever processed Medium Format in house. Furthermore, many Walmarts are closing out their 135 in house process. Now Fuji does not offer scanning on their C41 or send out E6. But the scanning is professionally done by Fuji, and I've never had bad C41 or E6 processing.

Check with your local Walmart for the Send Out kiosk and envelopes. learn how to fill out the instructions. I have posted images of completed envelopes. And find out if they direct the film bag to Fuji.

My experience has been good processing, very low prices, no postage or shipping and a ten day turnaround. Walmart calls you when the film negs or transparency return. They never see or touch the film. That only occurs at Fujifilm labs.

By the way, Walmart employees are largely ignorant of anything to do with this process. Talk only to the film department manager for a modicum of informatation. Just find the Fuji kiosk and grab a few envelopes. Use the drop slot.

After using a number of Walmarts, I found employees largely not knowledgeable, but the system is actually controlled by the user once you find the kiosk. The last Walmart I moved close to, I found a young (20ish) lady who knew exactly what I was talking about.

Sometimes life surprises you. And still over the years, never a lost roll, and no bad developing/processing.

 

[Mattco26]

You're making it too hard.

You're making it too hard.

I decided Im just going to outsource to NCPS or similar. I dont think I'll be shooting film for that long to make it worth buying a scanner and dealing with all the headaches. I dont care what people say, based on the large amount of research, scanning is a PITA especially for a newbie like me. Dust, scratches, software, it all sounds annoying.

If you don't care what people say, then why are you asking for our opinions? Scanning isn't that difficult. I use a local lab to process my negs, then I scan them myself. You can do fast and dirty scans to get an idea of what photos are real keepers, then scan them at higher resolution. I use the software that came with my Epson V500 and it works fine.

If I was going to make large prints I'd scan the film myself, edit the file then have it printed. Or take the film to someone like Blue Moon Camera who will do OPTICAL enlargements with a real enlarger and real paper.

If scanning your film is just too much for you to hassle with, then send it out and pay the premium to have someone else do it for you.

If this is all too much of a headache for you or too expensive, then I recommend you shoot digital.

 

[Aristophanes]

But I read somewhere that tri-x BW cannot benefit from ICE? Was that wrong info? What about portra 160? If both films can be cleaned up using ICE, this could be a game changer.

BW cannot be cleaned by ICE as the IR light is not properly read by the scanner after it encounters silver particles in the emulsion.

Scanning is somewhat fussy and time-consuming until you get a routine going. Personally, I find machine processed scans more than adequate on colour print film for 4x6/5x7s' or web images.

If you want something more detailed from a few shots, just scan the few you want more control over and higher rez at home on your own scanner or wherever at cost. It depends on the volume you want to do and what resolutions and the prices you are willing to pay.

 

[Chris101]

Film without the hassle of scanning or printing? Uh, digital.

 

[waileong]

Why scan? If you like, do like the old days-- get 4x6 prints done when you develop, or get a contact sheet, etc. Then enlarge or print only those you want.

Of course, when you don want to share with friends, you can do so with a cheap flatbed scanner, just scan the 4x6 print.

hi all
I was wondering what my options are if I want to continue to shoot film but not deal with the hassles of scanning negatives. Developing my own prints is not an option. the only other option I found it is to outsource the processing and scanning but it comes at a cost of 15 dollars per roll which is pretty high and they only do jpgs . is this my only option?

I was thinking about learning to edit looking only at the negatives and then sending the ones I want to be scanned. what do you think about that? Anybody in the same situation?

 

[Speedfreak]

This thead is a good demonstration why film is going away: Lack of quick, high quality scanners.

Every option today seems to be a tough compromise. Nikon is to blame for finishing the Coolscans. Kodak and Fuji are to blame for not filling the gap with replacement scanners.

 

[dct]

This thead is a good demonstration why film is going away: Lack of quick, high quality scanners.

Every option today seems to be a tough compromise. Nikon is to blame for finishing the Coolscans. Kodak and Fuji are to blame for not filling the gap with replacement scanners.

One of the most important reasons I will have to invest in a digital sytem (probably a mirrorless one): Time.
For my private projects and holiday shots I have no problem with the long way from the emulsion to a good digital copy. But more and more there are projects I should deliver very fast, even as an amateur. I don't like it but these are facts of live.

 

[rbelyell]

i'm not sure why more people simply do not have a simple reprocessing system with their digital camera. after all, scanning is digital reprocessing, but as fully dtailed here, it is terribly time consuming. i think one said 40-60 minutes per roll. why not buy a $50 light table, some film holders, put your digicam on a tripod with a flat field lens and 'scan' a roll in less than ten minutes?

my only issue in this regard is figuring out how to efficiently remove orange cast from color negatives...
tony

 

[dct]

i'm not sure why more people simply do not have a simple reprocessing system with their digital camera. after all, scanning is digital reprocessing, but as fully dtailed here, it is terribly time consuming. i think one said 40-60 minutes per roll. why not buy a $50 light table, some film holders, put your digicam on a tripod with a flat field lens and 'scan' a roll in less than ten minutes?

my only issue in this regard is figuring out how to efficiently remove orange cast from color negatives...
tony

Well, it might be a solution for one of the last steps (scanning), but there are other time consuming workflow steps using film emulsion, before you get the roll on your lighttable.
1) It just begins with 10 images on a 36 frames roll. If it was a special film I can have up to a few weeks before I've finished the roll.
2) After the roll is finished, if you bulk send mail order, the roll can wait a longer time in the fridge, before it goes to the processor. DIY is faster, of course, but your own work
3) After DIY deveolpment it is up to you to scan the good frames
(or you get it bulk back already scanned, waiting for the mail...)
4) Assuming you go the digital way, hence the scanning, you are now in the same workflow step as digital: Postprocessing (crop, color corrections, retouch, whatever...)

From my personal experience (I don't develop or scan myself) step 4 is annoying, but similar and done fast for digital as well as for analog photos. Steps 1+2 are the biggest amount of day count through the whole process.

 

[philipus]

i'm not sure why more people simply do not have a simple reprocessing system with their digital camera. after all, scanning is digital reprocessing, but as fully dtailed here, it is terribly time consuming. i think one said 40-60 minutes per roll. why not buy a $50 light table, some film holders, put your digicam on a tripod with a flat field lens and 'scan' a roll in less than ten minutes?

my only issue in this regard is figuring out how to efficiently remove orange cast from color negatives...
tony

Digitizing with a DSLR definitely is quick but it ignores the dust spotting which - in my experience - is more time consuming than what is necessary after using a slide scanner. So ten minutes for 36 frames is more like an hour with spotting.

I've set up my workflow such that I do the spotting while other frames are being scanned. With a few automated actions in CS5 I will, at the end of the time it takes to scan a whole roll, have finished TIFFs.

It's a question of how one wants to use the time available.

 

[PrecisionCamera]

Or you could just use our RFF development/scanning service and save yourselves time, headaches and heartaches! 😀

 

[Speedfreak]

i'm not sure why more people simply do not have a simple reprocessing system with their digital camera.

Answer :

my only issue in this regard is figuring out how to efficiently remove orange cast from color negatives...
tony

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