Nokton48
Veteran
When it I all finished up this spring, I will have 27 9x12cm Normalfalz holders. Already loaded with film, I have 9 Voigtlanders, 3 Russian, and 1 RADA. To be cleaned up, I have 4 Voigtlanders, 3 RADA (just found two more in Alaska!) and 7 Russian. I still need about four film inserts for the ones to be cleaned up.
Enough to have a dozen holders of each film type ready to shoot. Still waiting for the 300 sheets of 9x12cm FOMA 200 from Macodirect (it's been a month) and also the film from Lumiere Shop in Germany.
Enough to have a dozen holders of each film type ready to shoot. Still waiting for the 300 sheets of 9x12cm FOMA 200 from Macodirect (it's been a month) and also the film from Lumiere Shop in Germany.
oftheherd
Veteran
I think I remember having only 25 cut film holders. Kodak, Voigtlander, I think some called APA, and some unmarked. Four need new felt which I am working on. I also have a 9x12 120 film holder, I forget, but I think a Suydam.
All good fun. Just wish I had more time to use them.
All good fun. Just wish I had more time to use them.
Nokton48
Veteran
Today I was thinking about how to improve processing 9x12cm sheets (four at a time) in an 8x10 original grey 8x10 Unicolor Unidrum. The problem is, that the 9x12cm sheets are smaller than 4x5, and tend to slide around inside the tube, during processing.
Here is my solution. I took a sheet of automotive gasketing, and cut two long thin strips, which I glued inside the Unidrum (using Duco Cement) and I think this will work. The sheets now fit much more tightly inside the tube. Here's a couple of processed Efke 9x12cm negatives which I'm using to test the fit of this thing.
I'm going to do a test processing with this drum when I get four more sheets of film exposed. That will hopefully be this weekend, if the weather is good.
Here is my solution. I took a sheet of automotive gasketing, and cut two long thin strips, which I glued inside the Unidrum (using Duco Cement) and I think this will work. The sheets now fit much more tightly inside the tube. Here's a couple of processed Efke 9x12cm negatives which I'm using to test the fit of this thing.
I'm going to do a test processing with this drum when I get four more sheets of film exposed. That will hopefully be this weekend, if the weather is good.
Attachments
Nokton48
Veteran
More 9x12cm stuff arrives from Germany and the Ukraine today.
On the left, five more of the GOMZ Normalfalz-style 9x12cm film holders. 9x12 Kodak Cut Film Sheaths work perfectly in these. If anybody has any extra 9x12cm Kodak Film Sheaths they can part with, Please let me know.
On the right, 300 sheets of 9x12cm FOMAPAN 200 from www.macodirect.de
Took almost six weeks to get here after placing the order. Should be well worth it.
On the left, five more of the GOMZ Normalfalz-style 9x12cm film holders. 9x12 Kodak Cut Film Sheaths work perfectly in these. If anybody has any extra 9x12cm Kodak Film Sheaths they can part with, Please let me know.
On the right, 300 sheets of 9x12cm FOMAPAN 200 from www.macodirect.de
Took almost six weeks to get here after placing the order. Should be well worth it.
Attachments
Nokton48
Veteran
More Processing Options for 9x12cm Film.
More Processing Options for 9x12cm Film.
I'm ready to start shooting some more 9x12cm test film, just waiting for a clear day.
In the left photo:
In my darkroom I have been storing this homemade set of film tubes, which should work just great for 9x12cm film. These are similar to the BZTS Film Tubes which could be purchased at the time. I made this set from PVC tubing and had a friend make the rack to hold the tubes. Basically you load the cap with developer, then load the film into the tubes in the dark. Then drop the tubes one by one, into a tray of water, and spin them. Then one by one, uncap the tubes, pour out the developer, and plunge the tubes into a large tray of stop bath. Then take the films out, and fix them in a tray. Super even development and no damage or agitation marks are the advantages of this system. Also this will work well with my D-76 derivitive developer, which has a relatively short development time (usually under ten minutes). Will have to give it a spin
In the right photo:
Just received this FR film developing tank, which is adjustable to 9x12cm. Thought it would make a nice film washing tank, at the very least. Disadvantages: potential uneveness of development, slow fill and drain times, difficult to load. Advantages: Holds -twelve- sheets at a time, many report no problems. This one needs a new lighttight lid, as the bakelite cover has a big chip in it. These need not be expensive, even on Ebay. I paid $2.99 for this one.
My Epson 4490 should do a good job of scanning these negs.
More Processing Options for 9x12cm Film.
I'm ready to start shooting some more 9x12cm test film, just waiting for a clear day.
In the left photo:
In my darkroom I have been storing this homemade set of film tubes, which should work just great for 9x12cm film. These are similar to the BZTS Film Tubes which could be purchased at the time. I made this set from PVC tubing and had a friend make the rack to hold the tubes. Basically you load the cap with developer, then load the film into the tubes in the dark. Then drop the tubes one by one, into a tray of water, and spin them. Then one by one, uncap the tubes, pour out the developer, and plunge the tubes into a large tray of stop bath. Then take the films out, and fix them in a tray. Super even development and no damage or agitation marks are the advantages of this system. Also this will work well with my D-76 derivitive developer, which has a relatively short development time (usually under ten minutes). Will have to give it a spin
In the right photo:
Just received this FR film developing tank, which is adjustable to 9x12cm. Thought it would make a nice film washing tank, at the very least. Disadvantages: potential uneveness of development, slow fill and drain times, difficult to load. Advantages: Holds -twelve- sheets at a time, many report no problems. This one needs a new lighttight lid, as the bakelite cover has a big chip in it. These need not be expensive, even on Ebay. I paid $2.99 for this one.
My Epson 4490 should do a good job of scanning these negs.
Attachments
Nokton48
Veteran
More 9x12cm Film arrives from Germany.
More 9x12cm Film arrives from Germany.
On the left: 300 sheets of 9x12cm Wephota Fototechnischer Film F0 5.
Anybody here familar with this?
On the right: 150 sheets of 9x12cm Wephota Planfilm NP 22. 100 ASA Panchromatisch film.
I can see through the labels on the top boxes (which are white) that these are both labeled ORWO.
More 9x12cm Film arrives from Germany.
On the left: 300 sheets of 9x12cm Wephota Fototechnischer Film F0 5.
Anybody here familar with this?
On the right: 150 sheets of 9x12cm Wephota Planfilm NP 22. 100 ASA Panchromatisch film.
I can see through the labels on the top boxes (which are white) that these are both labeled ORWO.
Attachments
BW400CN
Bessamatic forever!
The FO 5 is an orthochromatic film with hard contrat - use for coping negative to make contact prints - if you develop it in a thin Rodinal 1:100 or less you might get is a bit sofer to get nice grey tones. - I hven´t use it but have seen some pics where people used it.
For my self I prefer the Wephota Ortho 25 - it has nice greys even when you develop it normal - (Rodinal 1:50 20°C 5-6min - or 1:100 20°C 11min)
The NP 22 is a panchromatic film with ASA 100 which comes close to an Ilford FP4 - I will try it in the near future.
For my self I prefer the Wephota Ortho 25 - it has nice greys even when you develop it normal - (Rodinal 1:50 20°C 5-6min - or 1:100 20°C 11min)
The NP 22 is a panchromatic film with ASA 100 which comes close to an Ilford FP4 - I will try it in the near future.
Nokton48
Veteran
I'm Done Retrapping 9x12cm Film Holders.
I'm Done Retrapping 9x12cm Film Holders.
Today I finished re-light trapping my 9x12cm Film Holders. These are now done, ready to receive Kodak 9x12 Film Septums, when I can find some more.
Light trapping is a challenge and must be done by trial and error, and tactile 'feel". I purchased some double-sided fleece, but after gluing it in with Duco Cement, it was obvious the material was not thick enough to do the job. A friend of mine on the Kiev Forum on Delphi sent me a sheet of what I think is "Mohair" material and was similar to the original light trapping, but again the material was not thick enough to do the job. So I laid the Mohair on top of the glued-in double-side fleece, and the result seems really good.
Everything is now glued in and I'm reasonably confident that these new holders will be light-tight . Now I need to find some septums for them. When all done I will have twenty-four good 9x12cm holders, which is not too many, for three camera bodies, and multiple films
The three on the far left, are the Russian GOMZ holders. Then a Voigtlander holder to the right of that, and then, three of the RADA holders, which were made by the German toymaker RADA, and later, absorbed into Plaubel, before the camera maker closed up, during the early 1960's.
I'm Done Retrapping 9x12cm Film Holders.
Today I finished re-light trapping my 9x12cm Film Holders. These are now done, ready to receive Kodak 9x12 Film Septums, when I can find some more.
Light trapping is a challenge and must be done by trial and error, and tactile 'feel". I purchased some double-sided fleece, but after gluing it in with Duco Cement, it was obvious the material was not thick enough to do the job. A friend of mine on the Kiev Forum on Delphi sent me a sheet of what I think is "Mohair" material and was similar to the original light trapping, but again the material was not thick enough to do the job. So I laid the Mohair on top of the glued-in double-side fleece, and the result seems really good.
Everything is now glued in and I'm reasonably confident that these new holders will be light-tight . Now I need to find some septums for them. When all done I will have twenty-four good 9x12cm holders, which is not too many, for three camera bodies, and multiple films
The three on the far left, are the Russian GOMZ holders. Then a Voigtlander holder to the right of that, and then, three of the RADA holders, which were made by the German toymaker RADA, and later, absorbed into Plaubel, before the camera maker closed up, during the early 1960's.
Attachments
oftheherd
Veteran
Nokton48 - Good job!
I am still looking for the right cloth myself. I think I have it, but want to experiment some before I post. I have found two of the APA have a paper/cardboard behind the cloth. It is very thin as you might expect.
I would still encourage you to see what a machinist might do. I also need to measure depth on different film holders I have to ensure the are all the same. Some look a little deeper than others.
I am still looking for the right cloth myself. I think I have it, but want to experiment some before I post. I have found two of the APA have a paper/cardboard behind the cloth. It is very thin as you might expect.
I would still encourage you to see what a machinist might do. I also need to measure depth on different film holders I have to ensure the are all the same. Some look a little deeper than others.
Nokton48
Veteran
I am still looking for the right cloth myself. I have found two of the APA have a paper/cardboard behind the cloth. It is very thin as you might expect.
Today I was conversing with my friend who sent me the Mohair, and he used cardboard under his, to build up the thickness. I used the double-sided fleece. Will have to check for light-tightness in full sun.
What is a good price from a machinist, to build some 9x12cm septums? In my experience, photo machining has been expensive. Any recomendations? Thanks!
oftheherd
Veteran
Today I was conversing with my friend who sent me the Mohair, and he used cardboard under his, to build up the thickness. I used the double-sided fleece. Will have to check for light-tightness in full sun.
What is a good price from a machinist, to build some 9x12cm septums? In my experience, photo machining has been expensive. Any recomendations? Thanks!
Yeah, I think it is for thickness but also since cloth to cardboard and cardboard to metal makes a more secure mating.
I don't know the cost. The machinist who did it for me did it as a work in kind. I will have to ask him for an estimate and let you know if he will give me an estimate.
John E Earley
Tuol Sleng S21-0174
oftheherd
Veteran
John E Earley - Looks nice.
Somehow I don't think once you start using it that it you will have a hard time deciding between paper and negatives.
It would be interesting to hear your workflow and see results with paper negatives.
Somehow I don't think once you start using it that it you will have a hard time deciding between paper and negatives.
It would be interesting to hear your workflow and see results with paper negatives.
John E Earley
Tuol Sleng S21-0174
I haven't posted on LFPF but there are a number of images taken with paper negs here: //http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?72984-Paper-negatives
Nokton48
Veteran
Gandolfi is a very interesting Dude.
He also has a Plaubel Makiflex

He also has a Plaubel Makiflex
John E Earley
Tuol Sleng S21-0174
Gandolfi is a very interesting Dude.
He also has a Plaubel Makiflex![]()
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And a lot of really cool old lenses for large format.
John E Earley
Tuol Sleng S21-0174
oftheherd
Veteran
That's a nice looking camera. I have a 6x9 Zeiss that I need to work on the shutter. On some speeds it begins to open prematurely.
My favorites are a Voigtlander Avus with RF (currently trying to finish up on a shutter cleaning) and two Kodaks, one with and one without RF. I have a few others that I need to let go so someone else can use them.
My favorites are a Voigtlander Avus with RF (currently trying to finish up on a shutter cleaning) and two Kodaks, one with and one without RF. I have a few others that I need to let go so someone else can use them.
John E Earley
Tuol Sleng S21-0174
Zeiss Maximar 9x12. f4.5 @ 1/5. Ilford Multigrade paper negative scanned on an Epson 600.

Please excuse the dust. I don't know if it was from the neg holder, paper, scanner or what.
ETA After checking, it's fairly apparent that the dust was on the paper neg before I exposed it. I suspect that it came from trimming the sheet to size.

Please excuse the dust. I don't know if it was from the neg holder, paper, scanner or what.
ETA After checking, it's fairly apparent that the dust was on the paper neg before I exposed it. I suspect that it came from trimming the sheet to size.
oftheherd
Veteran
Dust aside, it's a nice photo. I definitely have to try this. I am surprised at the tonality.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing.
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