--s
Well-known
"...tell your mama, tell your pa,
I gotta send you back to Arkansas..." (Sam Hopkins)
A crop from 120 this time, Rolleiflex. HP5+ in Xtol, Foma FB in Moersch Meritol.
I gotta send you back to Arkansas..." (Sam Hopkins)

A crop from 120 this time, Rolleiflex. HP5+ in Xtol, Foma FB in Moersch Meritol.
jean-bob
Established




Everything Tri-X pushed to 1600 developed in x-tol
Printed on Ilford MGIV FB paper 8x10
pesphoto
Veteran
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
jkjod
Well-known
Johnmcd
Well-known

A couple of RC and a large fiber.
Johnmcd
Well-known

Some FP4+ shots (dev'd in Ilfosol 3). Taken with Zeiss Ikon ZM and vc 50/1.5. Very happy with the tones and grain. Fast becoming my standard medium speed film and even preferring it to Delta 100.
--s
Well-known
"after a while we took in the clothes,
nobody said very much,..." (B.D.)
Adox Variotone FB in Moersch Meritol
nobody said very much,..." (B.D.)

Adox Variotone FB in Moersch Meritol
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
"after a while we took in the clothes,
nobody said very much,..." (B.D.)
Adox Variotone FB in Moersch Meritol
This is an amazing print. I can see all the different shades of white but none of the blacks are blocked off.
Well-done, and thanks for telling us which paper and developer. I've seen gorgeous prints using Moersch developer.
pesphoto
Veteran
Yes sir, never left...just more of a lurker now 
Paul??? That you?
Long time no see!
--s
Well-known
Thanks, Will!
The Moersch stuff is amazing. If you take a developer like SE6 Blue, you´ll get, as the name suggests, cold tones and very deep blacks. Switching to SE30 Meritol, a warm tone developer, you´ll loose the deepest blacks, but a new dimension of mid tones and light differentiation is added. It´s a "WOW!"- experience. This only works with warm tone papers, no matter RC or FB.
My original lost some light differentiation in the digital translation; the young man´s left arm is much better in the original print....
The Moersch stuff is amazing. If you take a developer like SE6 Blue, you´ll get, as the name suggests, cold tones and very deep blacks. Switching to SE30 Meritol, a warm tone developer, you´ll loose the deepest blacks, but a new dimension of mid tones and light differentiation is added. It´s a "WOW!"- experience. This only works with warm tone papers, no matter RC or FB.
My original lost some light differentiation in the digital translation; the young man´s left arm is much better in the original print....
bence8810
Well-known
Hi there,
One of my first prints on the new (to me) Lucky 90M-D enlarger.
Film was TMAX400 in low light with some flare.
Camera a Leica M3 with a collapsible summitar (no hood)
Paper: Forte Polywarmtone Plus RC 8x10 expired in 2007
It is also the first print I ever scanned. How do you guys scan prints usually? I used color and 24bit as if I went for BnW or Grayscale my warm tone (brown) was lost. The print itself looks a lot better still than the scan so I must be doing something wrong.
Also - amateur question but how do you get a full black border around your print? My negative carrier only lets a little of the film in other than what the shot covers so I only get these little black strips even when not using the easel.
Thanks,
Ben
One of my first prints on the new (to me) Lucky 90M-D enlarger.
Film was TMAX400 in low light with some flare.
Camera a Leica M3 with a collapsible summitar (no hood)
Paper: Forte Polywarmtone Plus RC 8x10 expired in 2007
It is also the first print I ever scanned. How do you guys scan prints usually? I used color and 24bit as if I went for BnW or Grayscale my warm tone (brown) was lost. The print itself looks a lot better still than the scan so I must be doing something wrong.
Also - amateur question but how do you get a full black border around your print? My negative carrier only lets a little of the film in other than what the shot covers so I only get these little black strips even when not using the easel.
Thanks,
Ben

Johnmcd
Well-known
Hi there,
One of my first prints on the new (to me) Lucky 90M-D enlarger.
Film was TMAX400 in low light with some flare.
Camera a Leica M3 with a collapsible summitar (no hood)
Paper: Forte Polywarmtone Plus RC 8x10 expired in 2007
It is also the first print I ever scanned. How do you guys scan prints usually? I used color and 24bit as if I went for BnW or Grayscale my warm tone (brown) was lost. The print itself looks a lot better still than the scan so I must be doing something wrong.
Also - amateur question but how do you get a full black border around your print? My negative carrier only lets a little of the film in other than what the shot covers so I only get these little black strips even when not using the easel.
Thanks,
Ben
Can't help you with the border question but I think a search will bring it up as it has been discussed at length before.
But what a fantastic image! Great first print. Looking forward to seeing some more
Cheers - John
Volver
Established
Some of my last night prints.
First time used Foma FB variant 111 paper (agfa brovira from 70s is still better) in also new to me Moersh SE1 Sepia developer. Toned in Moersh MT4 Siena Sulphide Toner (dilution 1+25, 1+40, 1+60).
M-hexanon 28/2.8, Tri-X@1000 in Acufine

M-hexanon 28/2.8, Agfa APX 100 in rodinal 1+50

Summicron rigid, HP5+@800 in Acufine

First time used Foma FB variant 111 paper (agfa brovira from 70s is still better) in also new to me Moersh SE1 Sepia developer. Toned in Moersh MT4 Siena Sulphide Toner (dilution 1+25, 1+40, 1+60).
M-hexanon 28/2.8, Tri-X@1000 in Acufine

M-hexanon 28/2.8, Agfa APX 100 in rodinal 1+50

Summicron rigid, HP5+@800 in Acufine

bence8810
Well-known
But what a fantastic image! Great first print. Looking forward to seeing some more
Cheers - John
Thank you John - will try and print a lot more from now on.
Cheers,
Ben
taylan
Street Dog
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
...
It is also the first print I ever scanned. How do you guys scan prints usually? I used color and 24bit as if I went for BnW or Grayscale my warm tone (brown) was lost. The print itself looks a lot better still than the scan so I must be doing something wrong.
...
Document, photo, 48-bit, TIFF, editing in LR. I get better scans then prints
bence8810
Well-known
Printing for upcoming exhibition.
Pinhole camera
Ilford fp4
Ilford Art300
Interesting - like the print. What exposure did you use in that pinhole camera of yours? Must be challenging photographing something in motion...
Ben
bence8810
Well-known
Document, photo, 48-bit, TIFF, editing in LR. I get better scans then prints![]()
Thank you - I did 24bit - will try 48 later. Otherwise the same, use TIFF and I edited in PS.
I hold the print to my monitor while adjusting the sliders. Easier to get a matching look. Then once I match it up - I come to work and check the scan on my work PC and it looks totally different. So I think I prefer an actual print - looks the same all the time!
Will go with 48bit tonight - thanks for the tip!
Ben
bence8810
Well-known
New print from this past weekend:
Camera: Minoltacord TLR (1953)
Film: TMAX100
Paper: Forte Polywarmtone Plus RC from 2007 (badly expired)
Camera: Minoltacord TLR (1953)
Film: TMAX100
Paper: Forte Polywarmtone Plus RC from 2007 (badly expired)

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