Show us your SLR ..... WHAT?

Huss--where did you get the grip for the F2? Thanks!
Paul

It is the same one that Shawn has on his - from the seller he linked to on ebay.

However, I am not a fan. Yes it looks cool.. It helps but it is not comfortable and has unnecessarily sharp edges around the base plate area. They need to be rounded off much more.
I have since bought the nylon grips from Buttergrip which are much more comfortable to hold, a fraction of the weight, and a fraction of the cost. You can also get them in multiple colors.

https://www.cameradactyl.com/buttergrip/nikonf2

Here it is on my Pentax MX:



Here on my Nikkormat. I also have it on an F2 but that is buried in a dry box somewhere..

You can see the fit is much tighter to the body than the metal grip.



 
I wonder if that has changed? I wouldn't say it has sharp edges. The whole bottom curve is centered in the palm of my hand when I hold the camera in one hand. I do have other grips that are certainly very sharp.

One thing I do want to do it put leather on the grip itself, I've done that with some RRS grips in the past and it is a nice improvement.

Shawn
 
This Buttergrip squeaked until I made a duct tape spacer between the grip and the body. Fit is great at a price that's hard to beat:

49687261858_d31cb0250a_b.jpg
[/url]DSC08859 by Michael DeLuca, on Flickr[/IMG]
 
It's funny, when I inherited my M3 and finally got around to trying it out, I found the lack of a grip on the body to be the most disconcerting thing about the camera. I actually wondered how people held the camera for long periods of time without their hand cramping up. I finally bought a used grip like Flat Twin's. Now I would consider the camera usable.
I actually sold a perfect FE2 to get the money for the grip. Not sure that was one of my better decisions, but that's water under the bridge now.
 
I wonder if that has changed? I wouldn't say it has sharp edges. The whole bottom curve is centered in the palm of my hand when I hold the camera in one hand. I do have other grips that are certainly very sharp.

One thing I do want to do it put leather on the grip itself, I've done that with some RRS grips in the past and it is a nice improvement.

Shawn

I own the same grip from this eBay seller. It fits very well on my FM2 and FM3A and aids to steady the body when using zoom or heavy prime lenses.

My hands are perpetually dry and smooth. This makes the grip slippery because the surface is very smooth with no grip surface. The three oval cuts do not help.
I tried gaffer tape but it is ugly and wears off quickly.

Leather glued to the grip is a good idea. I will keep and eye out for some.
 
However, I am not a fan. Yes it looks cool.. It helps but it is not comfortable and has unnecessarily sharp edges around the base plate area. They need to be rounded off much more.



I have this metal grip for my Nikon F2AS bodies. DO YOU REALIZE THE SO-CALLED SHARP EDGES ON THE BASEPLATE ARE DESIGNED THAT WAY TO ALLOW YOU TO SLIDE IT DIRECTLY INTO AN ARCA-SWISS TRIPOD MOUNT? THIS IS A GREAT FEATURE, NOT A DEFECT!!! The grip becomes more comfortable with time if you use a NIKON AR-1 soft release. Try to get the original Nikon version, not the cheap knockoffs.
 
I have this metal grip for my Nikon F2AS bodies. DO YOU REALIZE THE SO-CALLED SHARP EDGES ON THE BASEPLATE ARE DESIGNED THAT WAY TO ALLOW YOU TO SLIDE IT DIRECTLY INTO AN ARCA-SWISS TRIPOD MOUNT? THIS IS A GREAT FEATURE, NOT A DEFECT!!! The grip becomes more comfortable with time if you use a NIKON AR-1 soft release. Try to get the original Nikon version, not the cheap knockoffs.

The purpose of the grip is to make it more comfortable to hold . Hence the name.
I have both the expensive metal one and the cheap nylon one. The nylon one is much more comfortable to hold.

And as you can see in my original photo, my F2 has the Ar-1 release...
 
Beautiful. I wanted one for some time but I was put off by the shutter problem reports I read online.

Mine seems fine. Here's hoping it stays that way.
What is interesting is there are so many posts online saying the ISO dial is stuck. Cannot move. Jammed.

Well, so was mine. Then I read the owner's manual. The exp compensation has to be at 0 then it moves very easily and freely! It is easy to slightly knock it off zero so I have a feeling that is what most people are experiencing, and so think the dial is jammed.
 
Mine seems fine. Here's hoping it stays that way.
What is interesting is there are so many posts online saying the ISO dial is stuck. Cannot move. Jammed.

Well, so was mine. Then I read the owner's manual. The exp compensation has to be at 0 then it moves very easily and freely! It is easy to slightly knock it off zero so I have a feeling that is what most people are experiencing, and so think the dial is jammed.


Similar experience with the ME - you can knock the exp. compensation easily out of zero.
 
Back
Top Bottom