Show us your SLR ..... WHAT?

I always wondered who stole lens mount shutter speeds idea from whom - nikon vs olympus.
Nikon released the Nikormat almost 6 years before the om1 although Maitani was working on the design of the OM since 1968. Maitani considered moving the speeds to the mount as necessary to free up space on the top of the camera, it wasn't an aesthetic choice.
 
I always wondered who stole lens mount shutter speeds idea from whom - nikon vs olympus.

There's probably more to this but the Nikomat FT came out in 1965 and the Olympus M1 (later renamed the OM-1) in 1971. Neither camera was the first to have a concentric shutter speed ring but I think (I have been known to be wrong ...often) the Nikon was the first interchangeable lens camera to have this design. Someone out there might know which was the first.
 
CFV16 Digital Back Hasselblad 135 5.6 C T Star Auto Bellows Ringlight 200B by Nokton48, on Flickr

Hasselblad EL/M with CFV16 Digital Back, 135mm C T* Zeiss S-Planar (1:1 to infinity focus with Hasselblad Auto Bellows). Hasselblad Stovepipe, Hasselblad Ring Light, modified by New York City Flash Clinic, to work nice with the Norman 200B 200J Packs. Working good all, will be used for some digital floral photography coming up soon. Actually not too heavy to carry around. The Packs are running off of Broadcast TV Camera Dry Cell Batteries, cheap on Amazon.

Hasselblad ELM 135 C Zeiss Planar S 1to1 Macro Auto Bellows Stovepipe by Nokton48, on Flickr

Reconfigured the Hasselblad Automatic Bellows to fit the 500 EL/M model, and the 500 C/M as well. With the 135mm C Zeiss S-Planar, and Bellows Hood. Stovepipe Finder and A24 Back loaded with Shanghai 220. Broncolor Boxlite 40 8 inches away 45 camera right. Mirror on gooseneck 45 left for fill. Balloon light underneath glass table to softly light background.
 
HOLY GRAIL 150mm Voigtlander 15cm F4.5 Apo Lanthar Plaubel Maxiflex Auto Aperture by Nokton48, on Flickr

This for me is like finding the HOLY GRAIL of Plaubel Makiflex; I purchased a decent set (just teeniest bit of edge seperation dreaded) LANTHANIUM elements or some such. I've seen a few over the decades, Ken Ruth (famous repair Guy) warned me over very long phone conversation. He got a Maki Apo Lanthar all the way from MILAN to California; he couldn't fix it! He told me to BEWARE seperation in the 15cm Apo Lanthar. This one will not affect optical performance at all I believe. I'll get a Medium Yellow Filter and Rubber Hood to finish this. I bought the cells for 225BP, in a Linhof Compur I put on a Norma board. Recently I purchased this Auto Aperture marked F5.5, I have no idea what it fit. Well it seems to be VERY similar to the Linhof Compur in terma of construction. The image at infinity on the Auto Makkiflex is razor acute sharp on the glass, it appears a perfect match. The F/Stop Band will need to be re-calibrated, that's doable. So HAPPY I bought this for a great deal.
 
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my Fuji AX, Fujinar 28mm F2.8...
i also have a Fujinon 28mm F3.5 and 50mm F1.9, i believe they all made by Tomioka 富岡 Optics, Japan

haven't use the AX,
haven't get a Fujica X to Fujifilm X adapter for my XT100 either...

Fuji AX, film SLR

Img by Taipei-metro

Canon APSC T4i,
Canon Pancake Lens 24mm F2.8
Neewer nTTL Speedlight fired
 
I agree. The F90x a second close.
Err....

The one with the tape on was bought new when it released and was used for stage work mainly and still works fine, the one on the right was added later and the bottom left one was bought cheap to fix but never got around to it, it works but the white window on top is missing! ~ I thought it had just fell inside but was gone when I opened it 🤪 [I do have all the body caps somewhere!]

I love these.

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