kiev4a
Well-known
One of the most difficult situations for someone working on one of the FSU Leica copies is when you bump into a camera where the old shutter curtain is completly detached from the drum. The points on the large curtain drum where the ribbons and the long curtain attach are non negotiable. If you don't have them EXACTLY in the right place, it ain't gonna work. If the curtain is detached you have no reference point.
My first attempt at replacing a curtain was one a Zorki 1 with a detached curtain. (not the kind of project to cut you teeth on). It required about three weeks of working almost every night--gluing, disassembling and regluing the curtains until I figured it out. Shortly thereafter, Jim Blazik, who probably knows as much about FSU Leica clones as anybody, came up with this drawing that shows how everything needs to be aligned. I believe it probably works for and Leica-like Russian camera.
Not everybody wants to replace their own shuttter curtains, but if you do, and the curtain is detached, this drawing may be of value.
My first attempt at replacing a curtain was one a Zorki 1 with a detached curtain. (not the kind of project to cut you teeth on). It required about three weeks of working almost every night--gluing, disassembling and regluing the curtains until I figured it out. Shortly thereafter, Jim Blazik, who probably knows as much about FSU Leica clones as anybody, came up with this drawing that shows how everything needs to be aligned. I believe it probably works for and Leica-like Russian camera.
Not everybody wants to replace their own shuttter curtains, but if you do, and the curtain is detached, this drawing may be of value.
mongo141
Established
kiev4a said:
Nice to see that one in print Wayne and I am sure many will thank you. I had two FED 1's, one that worked fine and one with a detached curtain so I had to take BOTH apart to see what curtain placement was. As it turns out some Leica copies come from the factory with missplaced curtains (Quality control not being an FSU strong point) this can usually be seen by the amount of tension on the springs, one heavy / one light they can be also be heard with your ear by putting the thing in 'B' and tripping the shutter. Both curtains should sound about the same in operation on a camera with correct shutter speeds. Dave
kiev4a
Well-known
mongo141 said:
There are several factors that come into play, including how the big gear on the bottom of the main drum meshes with the smaller gear. for the curtains to align perfectly you have to hit exactly the right tooth.
To give an idea of the difference in time when you don't have to mess with cutain placement, I did one where the old curtaiins and ribbons were still attached and was able to put in new curtains in 3 hours and 15 minutes from the time I started disassebly until everything was back together (Zorki 1). With practice I'm sure that time could be cut in half.
If the curtains are installed properly the curtains only need minimal spring tension. Any camera Oleg does has very light spring tension.
mongo141
Established
kiev4a said:
Amen to that Wayne! When everthing is correct they work fine with mininum spring tension, just make a soft snick-snick in operation. I have about 6 or so of the things around here that sound like rat traps when the shutter is tripped, I just need to find some time and desire to take them apart and work on them. I have a couple of them in my 35mm kit that are fine so anymore I have trouble finding ambition enough to work on the bad ones. There is too much film in my freezer to be used and freestyle just got a LOAD of Fortepan 100/120 in stock after a long dry spell. part # 160120. I love this stuff in Diafine @ EI 160 or HC110 @1:72 for 9 mins@ box speed. US $1.69 a roll they had 1200 rolls, when I got through they had a lot less.
. Dave
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